Radio/Stereo: Sc-801 aux input hack

[bobbych]

ok some of you may have already seen my previous posts about this, which is 20 pages, and has many other aspects.

So, i decided, whilst doing a hack today, to create a new set of instructions

WHAT IS THE HACK

The Hack is the BEST way to get an AUX input into your SC801. This also works on the SC802, SC805 and SC800. It will prob also work on the Sc900.901 but i have not tested this yet.

WHY IS IT THE BEST?

well put simply, it's cheap. the parts cost around £5. BUT Cheap does nto mean bad quality. In fact, the method i have now used, taps DIRECTLY onto the main board, so gives DIRECT sound without interferance

Yes, you can purchase other items, such as the BLITZSAFE etc, which will give you AUX via the CD CHANGER port. but with this, you get to KEEP THE CD CHANGER fitted, and still have the AUX.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

Wel,, it works by removing the TAPE deck, and using the TAPE selector on the front to access the AUX. NO one uses TAPES now, so it is no loss.

SO, PLEASE EXPLAIN IS.

Well, first step is to pull your stereo out of the car, making sure you have the CODE

[bobbych]

next, REMOVE the TOP and BOTTOM lids, by removing the 4 screws in each

[bobbych]

once inside the TOP you will see the tape deck unit. This is held in by 4 screws, remove and discard the screws. Then pull out the TAPE UNIT and throw it in the BIN!

[bobbych]

now with the TAPE out, you will see at the rear, a RISER CARD.

Remove that, and throw it in the BIN!

[bobbych]

ok, now we need to start the SOLDERING!

flip the unit over, so you can see the underside, main circuit board.

search the area where the RISER BOARD connected to, and you will see a BANK of pins.

We are interested in 3 pins.

LEFT, RIGHT and RUN_DET

Get your self some wires, and solder a decent length onto the LEFT AND RIGHT pins as we see here.

Also, we need a SHORT length, one end onto the RUN DET and the other end onto the pin labelled.

This will FEED the RUN DET with a false 2V feed. This fools the unit into thinking that you have a TAPE insterted, even when you have not.

This is vital, so that the unit allows you to select TAPE from the front

[bobbych]

when you are happy with your soldering, mask off the cables with insulating tape and fit the lower cover

[bobbych]

now flip back over to the top.

feed the two cables you have just attatched, threw the back of the unit.

You can remove the BLACK back to help by removing these screws. Then feed the cables up into the main unit

[bobbych]

Now decide what sort of AUX input you want

if you want a REAR one, you can have either a 3.5mm jack, or RCA phono.

You can also have a FRONT 3.5 which i will show later.

You can have 1 front and 1 rear, or 2 rear if you wish, it is up to you

in this example, i have a rear 3.5mm

So, feed your cable through one of the slots in the BLACK REAR section [after refitting it]

[bobbych]

now, if you are just having the REAR, then simply attatch the cables together. So the one you fed from the underside board, to the jack cable you just fed in, and solder them together.

On the jack cable, you will have an earth screen. You must earth this to the unit. there are many earths you can use, i chose to join both to a single wire, and earth simply to a chassis screw

before connection, i also tied a know in the Jack cable. This prevents it from being pulled out of the rear of the unit and ripping your connections

[bobbych]

ok, now if you only want a REAR, then you are done

Simply tape up your connections, and put the TOP COVER back on. fit your unit to your car, and connect your AUX CABLE to your source.

SELECT TAPE on the unit, and you will have CRYSTAL CLEAR AUDIO on your head unit!