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440 Flat Batter (Again!)

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Old Jan 7th, 2008, 22:00   #21
Bruce_T
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ahal,

I shall the check the glove box light when I connnect the battery up and drive to work and lock her up tomorrow at work.



Could a moderator/admin staff make the batter have a y on the end to read Battery? - Cheers
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Old Jan 7th, 2008, 22:03   #22
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You should be able to edit your own post using the box at the bottom of your posting.
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Old Jan 7th, 2008, 22:05   #23
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Sorry Bruce just noticed its in the title of the posting.
Sorry Jim. Just ignore me.
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Old Jan 7th, 2008, 22:10   #24
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Heh, no worries Jim.


Spose I can always re-solder my dash intruments PCB one weekend atleast even if I cant start my car!
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Old Jan 7th, 2008, 22:13   #25
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Important to be positive.
Best of luck in the morning.
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Old Jan 7th, 2008, 22:16   #26
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Just to note.

When I connected my battery up the other day (Nothing to do with this incident) I connected the red live cable first and then the black negative one and when putting the neg on it sparked slightly?

Is that suppose to happen?
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Old Jan 8th, 2008, 01:59   #27
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A "splat" is generally expected!
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Refitting is the reverse of removal???.....Yeah, right!
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Old Jan 8th, 2008, 09:49   #28
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I connected the battery up and started the car, it was slow to crank started on the 3-4th engine turn (Not key). It then died instantly.

I start it again but it more letheragic and I had blip the throttle to kick her into life.

The battery would be weak since its been drained all the time so Im guess thats an expected out come.

Next thing is to get the readings from the battery then, My mate is pestering his mate to get him to lend him his. So fingers crossed.
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Old Jan 8th, 2008, 12:09   #29
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As previously mentioned in this topic.

1. Check the battery voltage with the engine running. If it is up at/above 14V then the alternator is charging. The higher the engine revs, the higher the voltage will be. Get someone to rev the engine whilst looking at the voltmeter. If the voltage is around 12-13V, then it is likely that the alternator is not working properly - be that electrical connection or a fault with the alternator itself.

2. If you have access to a decent ammeter (not a cheap one as linked in an earlier post that only measures 250 milliamps - which is 0.25A. More like the 10A plus as mentioned would be better which can be had for about 5.50) then you should measure the current being drawn when everything is off. If this is more than a few tenths of amps, then something maybe drawing off too much current when it shouldn't be. You can start pulling fuses (one at a time) to see which one cuts the current draw down significantlt. This will then seriously reduce the number of possibilities for the faulty component. CD changers in the boot can often be a culprit if you have one?

3. Disconnect the battery and leave overnight after a good run. If the voltage drops below ~12.3V by morning, then the battery is likely duff.
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Old Jan 8th, 2008, 15:03   #30
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Got myself a digital multimeter from B&Q for 25

Im in worjk put ill post specs of it tonight and then Ill get one of you explain in simple terms how I use it lol
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