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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244Views : 2026917 Replies : 4092Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 12th, 2020, 12:19 | #1041 |
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1990 240 Wiring Diagram
Dave,
I don't know if you have been following this thread: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...94#post2628094 It looks like the chap's instrument cluster is wired to the interior lighting rheostat. Do you have a wiring diagram for the 1990 car (my copy I have is the one you sent me for MY1980 - probably much the same, but it would be a good idea to check). Alan |
May 12th, 2020, 14:09 | #1042 |
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Parcelforce!
Having maligned Parcelforce this morn, I'd given up on seeing the cylinder head today, so I took Bob for a long walk. Imagine my surprise when the doorbell rang (on my phone) while we were out walking - it was the Parcelforce chap at my front door with: a B21a cylinder head. The helpful chap left it under my motorbike trailer, and we (Bob and I) have just come home to Xmas day:
It all looks good. It is probably too late to start the job and have it finished before I forget where all the bits to this afternoon (darn dementia), so I'll probably just put the RB up on some ramps to make everything a bit easier to get to, sort out the access and maybe put the studs into the head ready for a day at it tomorrow. Yippee! Alan |
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May 12th, 2020, 15:01 | #1043 |
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Yay!!! I thought you'd get it today! Good to hear the Law of Sod is alive and well and waited for you and Bob to go out before sending the driver rond with it.
I've had a look for a 1990 240 diagram but can't find one Alan, it would be helpful to see photos of where the voltmeter is fitted on that one you refer to as i think (but might be wrong) it's meant to be integral with the instruments and should therefore pick up the feeds from the instruments with no other wiring involved. He's obviously got a backfeed somewhere, perhaps on the bulb killing the tacho signal. http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...g_diagrams.pdf
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May 12th, 2020, 16:26 | #1044 | |
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I've started doing a bit of prep: car on stands, water drained, all 6 of the bolts that secure the crank pulley cracked, and all 8 of the exhaust manifold bolts cracked 1/4 turn, belts off, plugs out and timing marker re-painted with tippex. I think that will do for today. Thank you for the wiring diagrams - I've printed through what I think are the relevant pages and will have a look at them this eve. I'm trying to get the OP to do some methodical checks to work out what is wrong, but so far he hasn't. The first thing is to disconnect the 2 connections to the voltmeter and see if everything reverts to normal, I don't know why, but he hasn't done that yet. You think it is a back feed issue? I'd considered that, but wanted the OP to do a few simple checks to see if there is a wiring issue first. I'll keep trying. Stay safe, Alan |
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May 12th, 2020, 16:55 | #1045 | |
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As for mateys problem, i suspect he's somehow used a signal for the tacho as an earth for either the bulb or the voltmeter. Alternatively while he's been pulling wiring about, he's dislodged a plug on the instrument cluster so he's losing an earth and causing the back feed that way.
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May 12th, 2020, 17:57 | #1046 | |
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I took the cam belt cover off to paint the timing marks and spent about 20 minutes trying to locate the auxiliary shaft one on the cover - I knew it was there somewhere, just couldn't see it. I had to find it by touch with a small, sharp screwdriver in the end. Mr Volvo made that one a bit hard: [IMG][/IMG] I noticed the previous change had been for a Volvo belt, good I thought - I'll just use that to check everything lines up. Quite a few revolutions of the crank later I realised that the previous fitter had not bothered to use the timing marks on the belt - I don't know why: No matter, they are only an aide, but why not use them if they are there? I'm not sure about the 1990 car electrical problem. I have a feeling the car may not have been wired properly before fitting the voltmeter (he seemed a bit vague about noticing the tachometer and lighting previously), but I need for him to disconnect the voltmeter to check first. It could be a back feed issue, but if it hasn't been wired properly some time in the past then that should be quite easy to diagnose - if I can get the chap to be a bit more methodical. I'll look through the wiring diagrams later and see if I can work out why there might be some cross-talk between two circuits. Stay safe. Alan Last edited by Othen; May 12th, 2020 at 17:59. |
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May 12th, 2020, 19:05 | #1047 | |
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Total number of teeth on the pulleys is different to the toal number of teeth so the marks will move relative to the points they represent on the pulleys. If you think about it, you'll see what i mean. If there were only two pulleys, they would line up more frequently but with three, that increases the lining up intervals. Just to check, the new belt you've got has got square teeth?
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May 12th, 2020, 19:42 | #1048 | |
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Alan PS. I had not realised I was supposed to get a toothed belt. Last edited by Othen; May 12th, 2020 at 20:23. |
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May 12th, 2020, 20:58 | #1049 |
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There are two types of timing belt Alan, those with square teeth and those with round teeth. Thee days many sellers will supply the round toothed version "by default" as that's what the later cars use and they forget there are older cars out there with square teeth.
Worth checking the belt you've got to make sure you've got the square toothed version.
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May 12th, 2020, 21:37 | #1050 | |
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