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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244Views : 2026861 Replies : 4092Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 24th, 2020, 08:45 | #1101 |
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May 24th, 2020, 09:06 | #1102 |
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Old Head
I got round to cleaning the old head up a bit this morn, half an hour with some Screwfix degreaser, hot water and a stiff brush revealed:
... which doesn't look too bad, I think the gasket had just failed on the old item and I might well have got away with just changing that. It is nowhere near as tidy as the new re-manufactured head of course, and I think I would probably have had it pressure tested (£45 + VAT) before putting it back on the Royal Barge. It might well have needed skimming as well (another £50) so the re-manufactured head looks quite good value at £99. The other side looks okay as well: I was toying with the idea of having this head pressure tested and renovated now, but when I think about it that makes little sense. I'll just wrap it in an oily rag and store it in case I (or someone else) ever needs it, then it can be sorted out as required. Stay alert. Alan |
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May 24th, 2020, 10:31 | #1103 | |||
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If so, unplug the vac line and reconnect it to the dizzy then turn the slow running screw back in to achieve the 900rpm idle speed. If not, bend the tab to bring the idle speed to within 10-1200rpm (i'd aim for the mid-point of 1100rpm) and then follow the step above. You're probably wondering why i'm viewing this as important. Many moons ago i ran a Mk1 Cavalier 2.0 which had a Varajet-II carb. This had a similar system of setting the throttle butterfly to a specific point and then adjusting the idle speed by means of the idle air bypass/slow-running screw. On that carb, the slow-running screw had to be turned all the way in then with the distributor vacuum hose disconnected from the carb, a water manometer connected onto the vacuum advance stub on the carb and the idle speed adjusted to 8" of water vacuum in the water manometer. This was the mid-point of the acceptable range, i don't recall the entire range now but it made a huge difference to how the car ran overall including performance, economy and lack of flat spots. Looking at the information on the Pierburg carb, not just above but also what limited information i found online, i would conclude there is a similar arrangement on yours - obviously without the need for a water manometer to set it correctly and with a tab to bend instead of a screw to adjust the idle speed. It may be after checking it you conclude the idle speed is correct with the slow-running/air idle bypass screw turned just 1/2 turn out but until then i would say it is suspect, given all the previous misguided fiddling that seems to have happened over the years. Don't forget the tab is designed to be bent a few times at least so i wouldn't worry about breaking it. Up to you of course but for peace of mind, i'd check it out. Quote:
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May 24th, 2020, 12:12 | #1104 | |
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The procedure for the Pierburg is straightforward - but really fiddly. The tab it talks of is hidden below the carburettor between it and the firewall. I suspect it will take a bit of trial and error to get it right, but once it is done it shouldn't need to be touched again in my lifetime. I'll get on with it in the next few days. I've just done another ATF part change and taken the RB round to Morrisons to fill up so I have a good start point to measure the consumption. It took just 3 gallons (13.5L) and had covered 72 miles, I make that 24 MPG, but about half of that was before I adjusted the timing (including lots of warm-ups whilst I adjusted things). I'll fill up when I get to half a tank and see whether there has been an improvement. Stay alert, Alan Last edited by Othen; May 24th, 2020 at 13:38. Reason: Spelling error. |
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May 24th, 2020, 12:16 | #1105 |
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Perhaps I was a bit ambiguous about the tubular manifold: I hadn't seen one second hand - this is the one I saw advertised. I thought the new price was pretty reasonable for what it is - and just what would be needed to round off the twin choke Weber/AW71 package.
I was just thinking about project costs, perhaps for next year (very round numbers): Inlet manifold: £200 Weber DGV: £200 Second hand AW70/71 auto box: £200 Tubular exhaust manifold: £400 Other bits (prop shaft? speedo drive?): £200 Service parts (I might aw well change the crank seal and transmission mount while it is apart): £100 Total around £1300 - that sounds like a pretty good investment to make the RB quite a bit more modern without it showing. I checked my spreadsheet (sad man that I am) the other day and could see all the parts the RB so far have cost me £499 (including service parts like tyres and oil), so we are well within the budget I had in my mind's eye (maybe a couple of grand spread over a 2-4 years). Stay alert. Last edited by Othen; May 24th, 2020 at 12:48. Reason: Spelling error. |
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May 24th, 2020, 12:33 | #1106 | |
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I did notice there was broken off bolt - probably from when someone changed the timing belt some time in the past. It is nothing important, just one of the bolts that hold the plastic cam belt cover: There is a little bit of the bolt still sticking out, but not enough to get some mole grips or a stud extractor on to it. I was thinking I could put a M6 nut on as far as it will go then weld the remains of the bolt to it - the heat of the weld might also loosen the bolt - what do you think? If it goes wrong I have not lost much - I could still grind it off square and drill it out with a left handed 4mm bit (needs a steady hand and good eyesight - maybe get Dan to do that?). Stay alert. Last edited by Othen; May 24th, 2020 at 12:35. |
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May 24th, 2020, 16:49 | #1107 | |
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Also i think i'd try and find a manifold with more consistent primary pipe lengths and even secondary pipe lengths. May be tricky to track down because RHD manifolds have to take into account the fact the steering column is in the way but i would think it's possible. Propshaft i would guess a 7/940 prop from the same car as the box comes from would be about right but that would need double-checking after careful measurement of the length of the current BW65 box and propshaft. If for example the AW70/71 box is 6" longer and the propshaft is 6" shorter then it's probably a safe bet - the centre bearing position might also have a bit of influence.
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May 24th, 2020, 18:57 | #1108 | |
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Stay alert, Alan. |
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May 24th, 2020, 20:15 | #1109 | |
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May 24th, 2020, 22:23 | #1110 | |
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Stay safe, Alan |
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