V70 Hub bearing collapsed

Selftapper · Dec 4th, 2018, 22:34

Hi,

Hopefully someone can offer some help to me on this problem. The nearside front hub collapsed on my 2006 V70 D5 185bhp tonight and the wheel almost came off. The outer part of the hub came away attached to the disc. The axle bolt sheared about half way into the shaft.
Tomorrow, I intend to remove the 2 remaining halves of the hub (off the splines and from the disc ) and order a new hub. I then must try to remove the remains of the sheared axle bolt out of the outer cv joint. I know it was fitted with loctite about 2 years ago so I expect this to be a major job.
If I fail to remove the snapped bolt , is it possible to replace the outer CV joint ?
I looked at CV joints on EBAY but am confused by what I find. They seem to refer to 2 different joints for the 2.4 diesel turbo and non turbo engines. Not sure which to order if it transpires I need one.
Thanks in advance for any help and advice you may offer and I will follow up this thread with updates when I start into the work.

davebb · Dec 4th, 2018, 22:41

Hi it sounds like the bolt was over torqued as they are stretch bolts,
When trying to remove heat it up with a blow gun this will weaken the Loctite,
Dave

IainG · Dec 4th, 2018, 22:47

Hi

Quote:

I then must try to remove the remains of the sheared axle bolt out of the outer cv joint. I know it was fitted with loctite about 2 years ago so I expect this to be a major job

Mine sheared on fitting on my V50. About 5 mm was still visible. I tried molegrips and they were just damaging the end and it was solid. It would not move.
I used the blowlamp on the end of the shaft and the sheared bolt just came out.
The heat softens the loctite.
So even if it is sheared inside the shaft, if you can drill a hole in the end of the sheared bolt and use an easy out with a bit of heat and it should just come out.
Also the threaded hole (on the V50 at least) goes right through into the CV joint, so it could possibly be wound right through but not sure.
I also ran a tap through the hole afterwards to clean all the old loctite out of the threads before refitting the new bolt.
As I had the end of the bolt protruding(just) I managed to do mine in situ without removing the shaft from the car.
Iain

Selftapper · Dec 4th, 2018, 23:28

Thanks Iain and Dave.

i will have a shot at the sheared bolt tomorrow. Hopfully some heat and a stud extractor bit will tease it out. I torqued it up myself at the time with a generous application of Loctite so I reckon it will have a sound grip. Is the outer joint removable ?? Internal cirlip ? If it is , I might remove it and try and then at least I can put it in the vise and go to work at it there.

oragex · Dec 4th, 2018, 23:58

Could a previous owner have installed an inexpensive aftermarket hub/bearing? The original ones are very solid and durable on the S60. Try getting a used genuine one that feels smooth when turned by hand. As for the axle, if it's stuck inside the hub don't bother, source a used genuine one (new refurbished ones are a gamble) and don't forget to swap the original circlip that locks it inside the transmission as aftermarket ones have often times the wrong clip size and cause a lot of problems. The only place where the axle can be split without problems is at the CV joint near the transmission - you'll only need a new Oeticker clamp (or reuse the old one if you have the right pliers)

davebb · Dec 5th, 2018, 00:01

Hi was it a new bolt that you fitted ?
Dave

Selftapper · Dec 5th, 2018, 00:40

Cheers Oragex. I know very little about the history of the car. It had approx 160k miles when I bought it and it has 188k on it now. Could well be that it still has the original hub as far as I know. It most probably is. If I can locate a good used lowish mileage original hub the that would be a bonus rather than buy a spurious one on-line.
From what your saying, I take it that the outer CV Joint is not replaceable on these models ? So no point in my looking at any of those outer CV joints on Ebay. If so,i might look for a complete replacement drive shaft from a local breaker.

I will start at trying to drill out the remains of the bolt in situ (without removing the shaft) and if that fails then I'm looking at removing the shaft and finding a good used replacement.

Dave, about 2 years ago, I discovered that both axle bolts were loose. I removed them, gave them a good cleaning and re-tightened them to the specified torque with a generous application of loctite. I thought that would be the end of it ....I have since learned that they are stretch bolts and should have been replaced with new ones at the time.

Looking back at what happened tonight, I presume that the hub collapsed and split first and then the axle bolt sheared under the strain ....so I suppose that the loctite did its job ... in other words, the bolt didnt loosen first causing the hub to split ?? .. or maybe I'm reading it wrong.

IainG · Dec 5th, 2018, 07:03

Hi

Quote:

I will start at trying to drill out the remains of the bolt in situ (without removing the shaft) and if that fails then I'm looking at removing the shaft and finding a good used replacement.

Would be tempted to only just to drill a hole deep enough in the end of the bolt for an easyout to grip. Then a bit of heat and the remnant should wind out with the easyout.
Keep the heat on whilst you are winding it out, just enough to melt the loctite without overheating the shaft. I used a MAPP gas blowlamp.
Iain

MarvinMitt · Dec 5th, 2018, 17:18

I'm sceptic about the OE hub bearing failing like that without a major impact, it would make a lot of noise first.
FAG 713 6602 10 hubs are OEM.

Selftapper · Dec 5th, 2018, 17:57

update. I removed the bearing today. It was in 2 halves. The outer half still attached to the brake disc and the inner half bolted onto the carrier. The bearing had snapped around it's circumference just outside of the splines. I have not yet checked it for stamped markings indicating whether it was OE or not. The bearing itself was smooth with no signs of roughness. It had been completely silent before the incident so there was no warning or indication of imminent failure.
I replaced it with a Fag unit sourced locally.
I didnt fancy working on the broken stud which is approx 1" into the CV joint.
I removed the clip on the inner rubber gaitor expecting the inner joint to slide out of the cage. It would only slide out so far and then the three bearings would not allow it to leave the cage. A few firm pulls and the shaft and inner cage popped out of the gearbox. Some gear oil spillage. Even with the shaft in my hand, I could still not see how to remove the shaft from the cage that houses the 3 bearings so I left it alone.
I decided not to go at removing the broken stud myself so I left it over to a chap with a small machining workshop who has done some good work for me in the past. He will look at it in the morning. Fingers crossed.
If all goes well, I could have the shaft back in situ by midday tomorrow and start putting things all back together. Will replace brake pads while I'm at it.
Regarding the loss of gear oil. I will top it back up. There is probably a thread on here about how to go at that. What oil would you suggest ? Is the filler bung hard to get at ? I reckon she lost about a pint.
Still concerned about the way the bearing hub snapped with no warning. I am now wondering about the other side ??!!.
thanks to everyone for their advice so far.

Dec 4th, 2018, 22:34	#1
Selftapper New Member Last Online: Feb 25th, 2021 08:48 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Mullingar	V70 Hub bearing collapsed Hi, Hopefully someone can offer some help to me on this problem. The nearside front hub collapsed on my 2006 V70 D5 185bhp tonight and the wheel almost came off. The outer part of the hub came away attached to the disc. The axle bolt sheared about half way into the shaft. Tomorrow, I intend to remove the 2 remaining halves of the hub (off the splines and from the disc ) and order a new hub. I then must try to remove the remains of the sheared axle bolt out of the outer cv joint. I know it was fitted with loctite about 2 years ago so I expect this to be a major job. If I fail to remove the snapped bolt , is it possible to replace the outer CV joint ? I looked at CV joints on EBAY but am confused by what I find. They seem to refer to 2 different joints for the 2.4 diesel turbo and non turbo engines. Not sure which to order if it transpires I need one. Thanks in advance for any help and advice you may offer and I will follow up this thread with updates when I start into the work.

Dec 4th, 2018, 23:58	#5
oragex Premier Member Last Online: Jul 26th, 2021 21:24 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Coldnada	Could a previous owner have installed an inexpensive aftermarket hub/bearing? The original ones are very solid and durable on the S60. Try getting a used genuine one that feels smooth when turned by hand. As for the axle, if it's stuck inside the hub don't bother, source a used genuine one (new refurbished ones are a gamble) and don't forget to swap the original circlip that locks it inside the transmission as aftermarket ones have often times the wrong clip size and cause a lot of problems. The only place where the axle can be split without problems is at the CV joint near the transmission - you'll only need a new Oeticker clamp (or reuse the old one if you have the right pliers) __________________ Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ECTts0FSVSOT_c

Dec 5th, 2018, 17:18	#9
MarvinMitt Senior Member Last Online: Nov 1st, 2021 21:18 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Tartu	I'm sceptic about the OE hub bearing failing like that without a major impact, it would make a lot of noise first. FAG 713 6602 10 hubs are OEM. __________________ 2002 V70 D5

Dec 4th, 2018, 22:41	#2
davebb Premier Member Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2024 13:38 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Emsworth,hants	Hi it sounds like the bolt was over torqued as they are stretch bolts, When trying to remove heat it up with a blow gun this will weaken the Loctite, Dave

Dec 4th, 2018, 23:28	#4
Selftapper New Member Last Online: Feb 25th, 2021 08:48 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Mullingar	Thanks Iain and Dave. i will have a shot at the sheared bolt tomorrow. Hopfully some heat and a stud extractor bit will tease it out. I torqued it up myself at the time with a generous application of Loctite so I reckon it will have a sound grip. Is the outer joint removable ?? Internal cirlip ? If it is , I might remove it and try and then at least I can put it in the vise and go to work at it there.

Dec 5th, 2018, 00:01	#6
davebb Premier Member Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2024 13:38 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Emsworth,hants	Hi was it a new bolt that you fitted ? Dave

Dec 5th, 2018, 00:40	#7
Selftapper New Member Last Online: Feb 25th, 2021 08:48 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Mullingar	Cheers Oragex. I know very little about the history of the car. It had approx 160k miles when I bought it and it has 188k on it now. Could well be that it still has the original hub as far as I know. It most probably is. If I can locate a good used lowish mileage original hub the that would be a bonus rather than buy a spurious one on-line. From what your saying, I take it that the outer CV Joint is not replaceable on these models ? So no point in my looking at any of those outer CV joints on Ebay. If so,i might look for a complete replacement drive shaft from a local breaker. I will start at trying to drill out the remains of the bolt in situ (without removing the shaft) and if that fails then I'm looking at removing the shaft and finding a good used replacement. Dave, about 2 years ago, I discovered that both axle bolts were loose. I removed them, gave them a good cleaning and re-tightened them to the specified torque with a generous application of loctite. I thought that would be the end of it ....I have since learned that they are stretch bolts and should have been replaced with new ones at the time. Looking back at what happened tonight, I presume that the hub collapsed and split first and then the axle bolt sheared under the strain ....so I suppose that the loctite did its job ... in other words, the bolt didnt loosen first causing the hub to split ?? .. or maybe I'm reading it wrong.

Dec 5th, 2018, 17:57	#10
Selftapper New Member Last Online: Feb 25th, 2021 08:48 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Mullingar	update. I removed the bearing today. It was in 2 halves. The outer half still attached to the brake disc and the inner half bolted onto the carrier. The bearing had snapped around it's circumference just outside of the splines. I have not yet checked it for stamped markings indicating whether it was OE or not. The bearing itself was smooth with no signs of roughness. It had been completely silent before the incident so there was no warning or indication of imminent failure. I replaced it with a Fag unit sourced locally. I didnt fancy working on the broken stud which is approx 1" into the CV joint. I removed the clip on the inner rubber gaitor expecting the inner joint to slide out of the cage. It would only slide out so far and then the three bearings would not allow it to leave the cage. A few firm pulls and the shaft and inner cage popped out of the gearbox. Some gear oil spillage. Even with the shaft in my hand, I could still not see how to remove the shaft from the cage that houses the 3 bearings so I left it alone. I decided not to go at removing the broken stud myself so I left it over to a chap with a small machining workshop who has done some good work for me in the past. He will look at it in the morning. Fingers crossed. If all goes well, I could have the shaft back in situ by midday tomorrow and start putting things all back together. Will replace brake pads while I'm at it. Regarding the loss of gear oil. I will top it back up. There is probably a thread on here about how to go at that. What oil would you suggest ? Is the filler bung hard to get at ? I reckon she lost about a pint. Still concerned about the way the bearing hub snapped with no warning. I am now wondering about the other side ??!!. thanks to everyone for their advice so far.

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