Wheel bearing GEN2 tool

[Petey80]

So how does it work with bearings that have studs for nuts as opposed to holes for wheel bolts?

Just the video only shows the GEN2 tool going into holes on the bearing, where as my V50 for example, has studs.
Do they need to be removed and re-installed in order to use the tool?

The studs I know can be hammered out and back in again.

[T5R92011]

Going along with what FracturedButWhole has said, I think the studs would need to be tapped out first.

I will test this over the weekend if possible.

[FracturedButWhole]

Hi guys,

Quick update. I managed to find cheapo wheel bearings, which have properly sized wheel studs heads. Please, do not judge my choices, this car has to be with me for one more year or two!
I purchased the "Nordic" brand... never heard of them, so time will tell a word or two about quality...
As for wheel stud heads - they are shaped exactly the same as OEM ones. Look at first pic below. That in turn allowed tool plate to close fully, second picture.
Ok, so.. beauty of the tool is.. you can swap the bearing without taking the hub out and obviously you don't need to remove studs, if you have correctly manufactured aftermarket part. Stud removal is an absolute extreme, unless you have longer ones installed, in order to accomodate custom wheels or offset.

[Colinurquhart]

Yesterday I changed my two front bearings and wishbones. I never had the luxury of the tool but had access to a hydraulic press. I would advise to soak all nuts etc in wd40 prior to doing the work (fortunately I have a 3rd car to allow to have the car on stands to soak). Rather than removing the hub it was actually quicker and easier to remove the whole strut assembly as it's only 3 bolts under the bonnet for each side. Although there was two of us needed for holding the strut/hub when it came to pressing in/out the bearing and reinstalling the strut assembly.

[emy]

Originally Posted by Colinurquhart

Yesterday I changed my two front bearings and wishbones. I never had the luxury of the tool but had access to a hydraulic press. I would advise to soak all nuts etc in wd40 prior to doing the work (fortunately I have a 3rd car to allow to have the car on stands to soak). Rather than removing the hub it was actually quicker and easier to remove the whole strut assembly as it's only 3 bolts under the bonnet for each side. Although there was two of us needed for holding the strut/hub when it came to pressing in/out the bearing and reinstalling the strut assembly.

Speaking about the wishbones, there is any way to mount them wrongly?I changed one and a mechanic said that Is not well fitted, did not say why.I put it back the way was the old one fitted. Well, he was not pleased that I did the job, not him.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by emy

Speaking about the wishbones, there is any way to mount them wrongly?

Yes.
Some horizontal bush designs need the bolts to be lightly fitted in the air then tightened down and torqued up on the ground or with the full weight of the car on the wishbone.
If you tighten the bush in the air, you'll stress the bolt and bush once the car is on the ground. You could even twist and rip the new bush immediately if done incorrectly.
A decent workshop manual should also tell you this.

[emy]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Yes.
Some horizontal bush designs need the bolts to be lightly fitted in the air then tightened down and torqued up on the ground or with the full weight of the car on the wishbone.
If you tighten the bush in the air, you'll stress the bolt and bush once the car is on the ground. You could even twist and rip the new bush immediately if done incorrectly.
A decent workshop manual should also tell you this.

Thank you. Yes, I did it, fully tightened in the air. I will loosen the bolt, first I ll mark it, to see if was stressed. On the ramp will be easier done.

[I2ichie]

I changed 2 front wishbones yesterday and the osf hub bearing assembly using the USA pro 78mm tool from eBay. I have a heavy duty dewalt impact wrench and it literally overheated trying to wind the original bearing out! She was well stuck in there I had to let it cool down and re attempted 30 mins later it popped out with ease. Definitely recommend this bearing removal tool! It was £89 from eBay. No instructions but after watching a few YouTube videos it’s quite clear how to set it up. Re installation of the new skf bearing was very simple once the tool was set up it pushed home with no problems. I would upload some images but I’m unsure how to upload them on here!

[Tannaton]

Just caught up on this….

With regards to the issue with some non genuine bearings having larger profiles on the back end of the studs… is it actually possible to re-install the stud once the bearing is back in the hub? I’m not sure as never tried it but I’ve tried to change studs on other cars before and not been able to whilst the bearing was in situ….

[pinballdave]

Originally Posted by I2ichie

I changed 2 front wishbones yesterday and the osf hub bearing assembly using the USA pro 78mm tool from eBay.

I've bought the same tool, and there doesn't seem to be any instructions for the US PRO tool, but there are for the Laser 5568 tool, which appears to be identical.

None of the online guides or YouTube videos show it, but according to the Laser instructions you need to use CV Joint grease (molybdenum disulphide) to lubricate the screw threads of the tool and under the hex head of the screw, and it specifically says not to use impact tools on the screw. It also considers the main screw, nut and the washer (under the circlip) as consumable items!

Originally Posted by Tannaton

With regards to the issue with some non genuine bearings having larger profiles on the back end of the studs… is it actually possible to re-install the stud once the bearing is back in the hub?

It can be done with the rear studs (as I've done it myself), but the front ones look a little tighter for space. It looks like it might be possible with the caliper and caliper bracket removed. Maybe I should try this on my old hub before removing it, but I'm guessing it will all depend on how much larger the back end of the stud is, and whether it will pass through the limited space available.

Also, avoid the cheap wheel bearings on eBay. The previous owner of my S40 fitted one about 8,000 miles ago, the ring on the back of the bearing has lost it's magnetism and is no longer enough for the ABS sensor to detect it rotating. Hence needing to replace the bearing again now that MOT time is approaching.