2007 D5 (185)....Excessive Oil Consumption & Soot Filter Ful

[Horton]

If it helps, the engine we took out was stripped down as we wanted to reuse the head for another car.... When the head was sent away to be reconditioned, our machinist called to say all the valve guides were really badly worn, particularly bad. Hate to say it, but maybe that's your issue?

[Mistero]

Originally Posted by Horton

If it helps, the engine we took out was stripped down as we wanted to reuse the head for another car.... When the head was sent away to be reconditioned, our machinist called to say all the valve guides were really badly worn, particularly bad. Hate to say it, but maybe that's your issue?

Thanks. I've been working through possible causes in my mind since changing that housing and cartridge and this was one of them. On my car, the rough starting (ie it takes a couple of extra turns before the engine fires, especially from cold after a couple of days standing) is indicative that oil / oil vapour is seeping into the cylinders from somewhere and the valve stem oil seals were on my list. Other listed possible culprits are the swirl valves and the injector seals.

But my engine has a FSH and has only just passed 100K miles. I'm pretty shocked the valve stem guides / seals could fail this early. Is this common?

I think I'll nurse the car into the new year, go have a chat with the guys at P&R, watch a few more SiRobb and Tolly Swift videos and then figure out a way forward.

[piowil]

Hi,

It seems like I'm not the only (odd) one to hat that issue.
I am very keen to try to check breather valve.

I've just found that tread by mistake, while I could not get the answer to mine:
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=276130

I will speak tomorrow to my mechanic and most likely try to change the valve.

As per today I use 1l oil (0w-30) for circa 250miles.
regards,
Pio

[osullivant]

I changed the rings and things seemed better, but then blocked DPF before I could even run in the new rings.... Changed the valve on the oil separator and bingo... no more blocking up the DPF... few hundred miles and none of the old issues so far. Fuel consumption is improving and the car drives like a train.

now I have an oil leak at the top of the engine which covers the injectors and the stay bay and the underside of the bonnet in oil...

the car is often impossible to get out of Park and the brake pressure sensors are showing low signal/ fault and bringing on anti-skid service error and the steering is impossibly heavy..

so going to swop pressure sensors and try a new solenoid on the rack and cross fingers...

but to recap I think the high oil consumption is a combination of rings and the oil separator valve...

[jamie1131]

When I had this problem (I got rid of the car so never got to the bottom of it) I testers the oil separator by running the hose into a catch tank and blanking off the spigot on the inlet manifold.
The engine still drank oil and smoked like good-un but there was no sign of any oil at all in the catch tank.

[osullivant]

Originally Posted by jamie1131

When I had this problem (I got rid of the car so never got to the bottom of it) I testers the oil separator by running the hose into a catch tank and blanking off the spigot on the inlet manifold.
The engine still drank oil and smoked like good-un but there was no sign of any oil at all in the catch tank.

I did the same... and with same results but in Hindsight I think the vacuum created by the turbo acting on the pipe to the spigot in the air intake, in combination with the faulty valve creates an issue with oil being sucked out of the oil separator at high revs, or at low revs, assisted by copious amounts of blowby...

After I had changed the Rings I still had oil being flung into the DPF with the filter full message after 30 miles until I changed the valve...

I was unable to fathom its precise operation but there is a valve in the top of the separator that looks like it ought to close or open completely at high revs.

[piowil]

Dear All,

based on your advices especially Nickthecook's I started to investigate and I came across something called Positive Crankcase Ventilation System (PCV) of which Crankcase breather is a part of.
Following that trial please have a look on following links
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLNUOjfToN4
and great Robert DIY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIRoc0VxLd4

I fail both of Rob's tests, weirdly enough that makes me happy. As I know what's happens

[JJL]

Did you have high oil concumption as well? Did that cure it as well? Just curious, my 2005 XC90 D5 is doing the same. Fill 1L of oil every 2 tanks, it doesn't run on the floor, it doesn't get into the air filter, it doesn't fill the air to air cooler, but I continously get DPF regeneration... Was thinking maybe the Turbo, but reading this now, just wondering if I should spend the time remove it at all!

[osullivant]

Originally Posted by JJL

Did you have high oil concumption as well? Did that cure it as well? Just curious, my 2005 XC90 D5 is doing the same. Fill 1L of oil every 2 tanks, it doesn't run on the floor, it doesn't get into the air filter, it doesn't fill the air to air cooler, but I continously get DPF regeneration... Was thinking maybe the Turbo, but reading this now, just wondering if I should spend the time remove it at all!

Leave the turbo alone for now.... change the PCV valve and see how it goes.... you might possibly get an instant cure and it will not cost you very much....

[JJL]

I spent some time reading all your different posts around this issue. Thank you all for taking the time to post your results and findings. It helps, believe me!
This is what I did, and where I'm at right now: High oil consumptions (1L every fuel fill at the end). The oil consumption increased gradually since 1 year, with more frequent DPF regenerations. The DPF regeneration would engage each time I go high engine rpm's (Above 2500rpm's). Changed oil to 5W30 instead of 0W30, No difference. Checked pressure on top engine cover with a rubber glove (As Robert DIY was showing): the glove would inflate but stay in place with engine cold. As soon as engine get's warm, she would pop off. Checked the PCV valve membrane: couldn't find any signs of wear or leaks on that one. Pressure has to come from somewhere else. I finally decided to open up the top of the engine. The inside is a disaster... Valves are completely filled with soot, top of pistons as well. There is even small layers of soot on the sealing surface of some inlet valves. Interesting enough, inlet valves channels are way more dirty than the outlet valve channels. As engine head is removed, checked as well the turbo: no real issue with that one, you were right Osullivant! I'm cleaning the compleet head right now: removed the valve stem seals. Haven't found any of the seal different from the others, but I must admit all of them have become very hard at the top. Is this the root cause? I would guess, but not 100% sure. I will check the vaccuum system as mentionned by a post earlier. Should I check any other parts at this stage, before fitting back the engine head?