Engine: D5244: Annoying Chirruping Sound :(

[Argyllt6]

IMG-20140329-00019.jpg pic of alternator pulley (missing) and damaged ps pump pulley aswell as shot bearings in alternator pulley

car has done 180k so maybe this is normal..??!!

IMG-20140329-00017 (1).jpg

[Brendan W]

It's about time the alternator pulley was officially added to the list as a replacement item at timing belt time. The makers only give them a service life of 80k or so. Same goes for the tensioner and idler pulleys.

[Argyllt6]

I agree totally ! might aswell do the aux belt too £60 for a gates kit off fleebay.

easy to change too..

[cheshired5]

I'm lovin this tip. Your own creation or is this pretty standard and I've just never come across it?

Originally Posted by Argyllt6

the chirping was the ps pump on my xc90 t6 which was diagnosed spraying water out of a spray bottle onto the middle area of the ps shaft.
this made the chirp go away for maybe a minute then was back again

Thanks for your response again. Really helpful!

[Argyllt6]

I used a spray bottle of instant shine originally which was in the car then noticed it actually worked lol

When I ran out I just filled it with water. I since sold the car just need to make sure the spray goes on the part in question otherwise it could get misdiagnosed.

Good luck

[cheshired5]

I thought I'd tie up this thread.
All fixed and sounding great again and no worrying aux belt slapping.
It required.....
Aux Belt £40
Tensioner £60
Idler £40
Alternator Freewheel Pulley £74
2 x Tensioner Bolts £3
All genuine parts and the local main dealer swapped the old alternator pulley for the new one as part of the price. I had to remove and take in the alternator for this.
Everything else I did myself, so no labour costs.
I had a couple of dodgy moments with the wrong tensioner being ordered and I also sheared a tensioner mounting bolt due to a brain freeze with torque figures, embarrassing but no harm done.
Haynes tells you to remove the Power Steering hose from the pump then refill the fluid after, as part of the alternator removal. I didn't see the point, so didn't bother and to be honest, I still can't see why they suggest that.
Video before work done here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STH8kaIoMWI&app=desktop
And after here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQUqC886tnY
Thanks all for the help and suggestions

[Rutz]

Thanks for the update - always good to hear how things turn out

I really need to do this on mine as it looks like your 'before' video

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Rutz

Thanks for the update - always good to hear how things turn out

I really need to do this on mine as it looks like your 'before' video

Yes, it's frustrating when you read a thread that covers your exact problem and it leaves you hanging lol.
If yours is doing the same, then some failing in the system is putting excessive strain on the belt and stretching it.
The cheap fix to cure the sound is a nice new tight belt but it's a false economy as the root cause hasn't been fixed. Your new belt will get stretched and shredded instead so a new tensioner and idler is therefore essential as a minimum.
To see if you also need the alternator pulley, take the belt off, which takes 30 seconds and turn your alternator pulley by hand. Then stop and insert a screwdriver into the fins of the alternator. If you can still turn the pulley clockwise, all is well but if you can no longer turn the pulley clockwise with the screwdriver inserted, your pulley clutch mechanism is shot and the pulley needs replacing. It's the lack of freewheeling on this pulley which really piles on the stress.