Idle control valve, I cleaned it, now the car is worse 😫 - Page 2

Kingfisher8 · Oct 11th, 2021, 18:31

The new valve has helped, it no longer stalls. But its still a bit hit an miss as to what it idles at. I'm gonna have the throttle body off at the weekend and clean it, plus chuck some new plugs in and new leads, I was doing them anyway.
I have a feeling the old dirty idle control valve may have been masking some underlying issues.

Got a new exhaust coming too as the old one is a little rotten an i guess that won't help.

Kingfisher8 · Oct 11th, 2021, 18:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyS9

Stalling it due to other problems will certainly trigger the Lambda light and the MAF error code.

Most likely are big air leaks, and you don't say if its a turbo, dump failure will cause a stall after accelerating when you slow down.

Nearly stalling after starting is usually caused by a dirty throttle body. Use a can of intake cleaner on it.

High rpms can be caused by nearly stalling and going into a fault mode, also can be caused by a missing speed signal to the ECU. Does the speedo work ok?

Low fuel pressure can also be an issue.

Also good to test the plugs with lights just to eliminate the sparks.

As Dave says, diagnose first, don't throw parts at it.

Its a manual non turbo.
Its not stalling now but Will idle just above stalling,, 500rpm, 700 or 1500 or anywhere inbertween.

Kingfisher8 · Oct 25th, 2021, 20:04

So, an update with a resolution.

I got some time on it today, after fitting the new exhaust. It made no difference but needed doing for the mot. I decided to pull the TB off to clean it as the next thing to try. All cleaned up and still ran like poop, I then looked in to the setting of the TB and found it was well off.
My guess is the PO set the TB up to make it run OK with the dirty idle control valve. But now it is all set up correctly and old idle valve is back on it runs like a dream

Next up is to tackle the heater fan and resistor, anyone know where to get them? Everywhere I've looked so far has the wrong type.

Oct 11th, 2021, 18:31	#11
Kingfisher8 Junior Member Last Online: Oct 25th, 2021 20:04 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Diss	The new valve has helped, it no longer stalls. But its still a bit hit an miss as to what it idles at. I'm gonna have the throttle body off at the weekend and clean it, plus chuck some new plugs in and new leads, I was doing them anyway. I have a feeling the old dirty idle control valve may have been masking some underlying issues. Got a new exhaust coming too as the old one is a little rotten an i guess that won't help.

Oct 25th, 2021, 20:04	#13
Kingfisher8 Junior Member Last Online: Oct 25th, 2021 20:04 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Diss	So, an update with a resolution. I got some time on it today, after fitting the new exhaust. It made no difference but needed doing for the mot. I decided to pull the TB off to clean it as the next thing to try. All cleaned up and still ran like poop, I then looked in to the setting of the TB and found it was well off. My guess is the PO set the TB up to make it run OK with the dirty idle control valve. But now it is all set up correctly and old idle valve is back on it runs like a dream Next up is to tackle the heater fan and resistor, anyone know where to get them? Everywhere I've looked so far has the wrong type.

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