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Swirl Arm low cost repair!

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Old Oct 24th, 2016, 19:34   #131
PaulH23
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What a good idea....is it working. Will do mine as been quoted £700 by Volvo. Bless them
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Old Oct 24th, 2016, 22:45   #132
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Not driven far with it yet , but as soon as I started it up the motor started to modulate , never seen it move before ! may not use the car for a couple of weeks , but I'll update when I do
Dave
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Old Oct 27th, 2016, 17:56   #133
C30D5
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I've just found this thread, went down my local garage today and got the following code

ECM - 1850 swirl actuator control.

I've read this thread with people using cable ties, key rings etc. My actuator arm/linkage doesn't look broken, or any signs of cracks.

What actually am I looking for?

Thanks
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Old Nov 4th, 2016, 17:50   #134
galloot633
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modified swirl arm still working perfectly
Dave
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Old Nov 4th, 2016, 18:03   #135
spottedhaggis
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I tried some picture wire first, no go, snapped easy, then I used a metal button and its now gone.

Yesterday I thought, ok Ill try another option.
I sawed the ball off the end that fixes to the engine side, made the hole a little bigger so it could take a 4.5mm bolt like this (only a little longer)


I fed the bolt through fron the left side (the flap that moves back and forward), I then put on a single nut, made sure it was very tight (this is to hold the bolt to the flappy thing)
I then put the arm on, threading the now ball less end onto the nut.
I then using a arge set of wire cutters, destroyed 1 layer of the threads right up to where the arm is placed.
I screwed on a single nut up to where the thread was destroyed, the now destroyed thread stopped the nut going right up to the arm.
Then I destroyed the thread in front of the nut, so now I have the arm on, the nut wont come off, and it is working 100% perfect, and it moves back and forth problem free.

It was as fiddly as you can get, using several paids of long nose pliers to hold things and try and turn things, but it has worked.
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Old Nov 9th, 2016, 20:10   #136
moleman58
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Default My story and fix - 2009 V70 2.4D

I was having lots of performance issues and had already swapped out the MAF - no change, then replaced the fuel filter -smoother and a little more torque, but still had very little mid-range/acceleration performance issues.

So I was hunting down leaks and generally checking connections etc. with the engine running. Then I shut down the engine and heard this strange actuator cycling noise coming from the engine. Soon noticed the swirl arm actuator cycling back and forth, but the link arm wasn't connected to anything!
There is a small oil weep around that area and i suspect this may have contributed to the issue i.e. contaminating the plastic arm.

The arm was too easy to reconnect to the ball joint on the engine side and would easily slip off.
My solution was to remove the arm and modify the loose fitting end by drilling a hole across the width of the arm close the the end fitting. I then put a 2.5mm nut and bolt to act as a clamp and adjusted it until it was a tight "snap" fit to the ball joint.
Gave it a test drive and still attached when I came back.
However, whilst the drive is a lot better, still have mid-range performance issues.
I have an EML327 on order, so will get readings from that before doing any more "fixes". I'll add some updates if I find anything useful
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 15:51   #137
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Update
Ok, I now have the fault codes - all are 'related'

P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow "A" Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P010B Mass or Volume Air Flow "B" Circuit Range/Performance
P010F Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor A/B Correlation
P2A00 02 sensor circuit range/performance bank 1 sensor 1
P0238 Engine Turbocharger/Supercharger boost sensor "A" Circuit High
P0234 Engine Turbocharger/Supercharger Overboost Condition
P2015 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1

I am pretty sure the MAF is ok, but may try a swap out with a known good one to be sure.
I may just do an EGR inspection/clean next. It won't harm if it needs doing.

But if anyone fancies suggesting some other easy checks/swaps/changes, I'd be pleased to hear them

Cheers
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Old Nov 17th, 2016, 00:49   #138
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just to update, since my fix, I have had no further errors related to the arm, and performance has been noticably better, arm mod working perfect, I fear now the arm will simpluy snap, being plastic, but Ill handle that later.

I will be driving to Brussels, and on to Rotterdam, then back home again next week so around 700 miles, that should be a pretty good test
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Old Feb 20th, 2017, 22:58   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tt82 View Post
If your on about replacing the entire swirl arm and not just the link, which it appears you are then it is substantially more expensive.

To get to the swirl arm requires most of the head to be dismantled and removing the injectors requires new seals at £40 per injector.
I had a repair completed about 12 months ago but this has now failed. Apparently the repair was just to replace the linkage/socket but now the ball has worn too much and must be replaced. As you say, this I am told requires the rocker cover to come off and all injectors out (requiring new feed pipes). £900 all in and that from a local indy.

So I guess my problem means I can't try any of these handy DIY repairs but I am not about to pay £900.....I had better have a good dig around myself to see for sure what the actual problem is. Certainly worth the effort...
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Old Apr 2nd, 2017, 20:52   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galloot633 View Post
modified swirl arm still working perfectly
Dave
This looks a great idea.

Hi is this still working? Where did you gets the bits for it? Did you glue a o ring into the arm to solve the ball joint problem.
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