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High Running Idle

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Old Feb 3rd, 2021, 08:41   #11
loki_the_glt
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If you're stuck I can supply a Code Reader.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...+reader&page=9

Contact details (email) and price are in the thread. Delivery would be a day or two after payment, dependent on my shift pattern and whether or not I've actually got one sitting around

There's a separate link to the codes and meanings elsewhere on the forum.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2021, 09:29   #12
Rversteeg
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Default Temperature sensor

Just thinking out loud, couldn't it be the temperature sensor? If the ECU thinks the engine is cold, it will inject quite a lot of extra fuel on startup, which would flood the engine on hot start. Cold start will of course be no problem. Once running, the ECU will have the engine run at high idle to compensate for additional friction of a cold engine. A hot engine will be harder to start and run on high idle after that.
Do you smell petrol on a hot start?
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Old Feb 3rd, 2021, 11:02   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rversteeg View Post
Just thinking out loud, couldn't it be the temperature sensor? If the ECU thinks the engine is cold, it will inject quite a lot of extra fuel on startup, which would flood the engine on hot start. Cold start will of course be no problem. Once running, the ECU will have the engine run at high idle to compensate for additional friction of a cold engine. A hot engine will be harder to start and run on high idle after that.
Do you smell petrol on a hot start?
Rob
The other thing along similar lines is that when cold, the ignition advances more because of a high resistance from the CTS so you could be on to something there.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2021, 15:41   #14
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Just checked today I use 95 octane fuel, its the highest octane fuel around me so I always try to stick to that.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2021, 15:46   #15
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Just checked today I use 95 octane fuel, its the highest octane fuel around me so I always try to stick to that.
What is the brand? Also what other brands do you have nearby?
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Old Feb 3rd, 2021, 20:27   #16
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What is the brand? Also what other brands do you have nearby?
Gulf, only other near me is tesco and they dont have their premium brand
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Old Feb 3rd, 2021, 20:47   #17
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Gulf is better than Tesco at least, shame you don't have a BP nearby. That said, i'm guessing the being 95 octane, it will also be E10 fuel?
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Old Feb 5th, 2021, 11:45   #18
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Gulf is better than Tesco at least, shame you don't have a BP nearby. That said, i'm guessing the being 95 octane, it will also be E10 fuel?
E10 is right yeah
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Old Feb 5th, 2021, 12:03   #19
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Still its not going to cause high running idle at 1500 or 1800rpm, is it?

AFAIK it caused by deliberate intervention with the IACV by the ECU because of inputs which it doesn't think are correct (eg high air flow with no vehicle speed reading), or by increased amounts of air leaking in.

There might be other error conditions that respond in this way and this is why you need a code reader.

2 more issues I have seen is adjustment of the throttle body, especially if its been off for cleaning, there is enough play in the bolts for it to go back on in the wrong place, and (possibly) false triggering of auto drive select or AC on (in a manual these signals should be grounded to avoid false triggering).

Turning off and on again should reset any false reading.
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Old Feb 6th, 2021, 21:51   #20
PurpleTurbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyS9 View Post
Still its not going to cause high running idle at 1500 or 1800rpm, is it?

AFAIK it caused by deliberate intervention with the IACV by the ECU because of inputs which it doesn't think are correct (eg high air flow with no vehicle speed reading), or by increased amounts of air leaking in.

There might be other error conditions that respond in this way and this is why you need a code reader.

2 more issues I have seen is adjustment of the throttle body, especially if its been off for cleaning, there is enough play in the bolts for it to go back on in the wrong place, and (possibly) false triggering of auto drive select or AC on (in a manual these signals should be grounded to avoid false triggering).

Turning off and on again should reset any false reading.
I have a couple broken broken clips on the airbox, this would cause excess air leaking in i guess.
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