C70: Start up after years unused.

[CNGBiFuel]

RD's words: I'd forgotten the ATF trick.... [ATF acts like WD40 in this application, only better (for thisjob) and cheaper. You can fire a heap down there with no fear of harm. ]

I alos forgot to tell you to put a socket on the crank-bolt bolt before trying. It'll need to be treated with care, and you are about to give your starter its hardest job in years.... No point frying it eh?

If an auto, sticking solenoids is a worry, a major issue with these cars, and as RD says: as much, or more hassle than engine woes.

Change fluid with a pressure-bleeder, only I can't recommend any particular one. All junk, none seem to last, I'm on my fourth. Gunson's Eezi-bleed last 2-3 bleeds if you're lucky - (I've had two of those). I feel another lovelorn thread coming on... 'pressure bleeders I have known'

Have fun.

[Chrispy01]

I have a surplus of recently purchased Honda automatic transmission fluid ...are we talking a couple of teaspoons per pot?

[rudi dudi]

Yeah not a great deal is needed mixed with diesel 50/50 blend.Obviously if it’s seized you may need to increase the dosage and let it sit to seep past the rings.
Personally I think your Autobox will be your port of trouble.I hope I’m wrong but the valve bodies in these seriously dont like being left idle and unloved for years.
Good luck.

[Luxobarge]

Originally Posted by rudi dudi

.....and let it sit to seep past the rings.

It's important to do this anyway. If you tip stuff down the plug hole and then spin the engine, you've just massively increased the compression ratio, and are immediately going to put the big ends and little ends under far more force than is normal, just at the point where there's probably very little oil in those bearings. Just leave it overnight to seep past the rings and it will return to its normal compression ratio and all will be well. Not to mention avoiding massive clouds of smoke on start-up, which will do the catalytic converter no good at all, not to mention the environment and the neighbours!

[Grimbob]

If you need to change the wheel bearings on it go to https://www.northwestbearings.co.uk/ i used them to change the bearings on my XC90 they are fantastic

[rudi dudi]

Originally Posted by Luxobarge

It's important to do this anyway. If you tip stuff down the plug hole and then spin the engine, you've just massively increased the compression ratio, and are immediately going to put the big ends and little ends under far more force than is normal, just at the point where there's probably very little oil in those bearings. Just leave it overnight to seep past the rings and it will return to its normal compression ratio and all will be well. Not to mention avoiding massive clouds of smoke on start-up, which will do the catalytic converter no good at all, not to mention the environment and the neighbours!

In a few words No.. You’d expell most of it by spinning it over with the plugs out before attempting to start up.
Your just not going to replace the plugs and flick the switch with that concoction down the bores are you.
Fouled plugs is the first thing to hand with that approach along with contamination and diluted sump oil.
Once freed off and turning easily by hand,your glamorous assistant needs to flick the switch and you catch the ejected fluid in to a rag.

[stevepcar]

Originally Posted by rudi dudi

Absolutely… However I don’t think the Op is going down that road or he wouldn’t be asking the original question.
I’ve started things on old belts before.Sure if it looks perished and brittle change it but they are considerably more resilient than people think.
I personally wouldn’t bother with an oil change(providing it’s not water contaminated or milky etc)or new plugs before flicking the switch and do the change afterwards.
Id be more worried about the Autobox valve body solenoid’s as it’s an Auto and sat for years than the engine.
A lot pricier and far more hassle than engine work.

I recommissioned my 850 T5 after 7-years standing & the auto gearbox was the biggest problem. As Rudi says the valve body solenoids can be a problem. They had probably seized on mine & I had a price of £650 to put it right. Check the gearbox oil colour too, it should be pink if it is ok, if not I recommend changing that before considering the engine oil change. Good luck.

[rudi dudi]

Was that from Bristol transmission’s to sort the Valve body ?
£650 isn’t too bad as the valve body is around the £400 to £500 mark by itself.

[stevepcar]

Originally Posted by rudi dudi

Was that from Bristol transmission’s to sort the Valve body ?
£650 isn’t too bad as the valve body is around the £400 to £500 mark by itself.

Yes it was, but they said it might need the whole box rebuilding & they wouldn't know until they'd tried the solenoids valves I decided as there wasn't a definitive diagnosis, it would be better(cheaper) to change the box. I was lucky to find one in good order, with pinkish oil in it.

[Chrispy01]

She's idling away as I write - . I still need to check any fault codes, although I've reset the service light and the dash lights are clear. I still have 3 discs to free before I can move her and find out if the transmission solenoids are on strike . So, there's still a way to go and no hubris at this end. The rear discs may be a bit of a nightmare, although the driver's side front released ok - the disc was well rusted, but the caliper was fine and piston moving (I'd replaced both front pistons, just before she was laid up).

Thanks for everyone's input to, at least , get this far.