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C30 / S40 & V50 '04-'12 / C70 '06-'13 General Forum for the P1-platform C30 / S40 / V50 / C70 models |
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Cars doing my head inViews : 1374 Replies : 19Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 30th, 2013, 19:22 | #1 |
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Cars doing my head in
2 weeks ago my V50 wouldn't start, just clicking once and not cranking. Completely dead on the driveway.
Got volvo assistance out and it went to volvo, got the starter motor replaced. 2 days later, the car had done one 6 mile trip and it was dead on the drive again, same clicking. Back to volvo it went, again on the back of a volvo assistance van...they had it for 4 days and replaced a 'faulty wire to the starter motor' (vague description but thats all they told me at the dealer). I got it back 2 days ago and now, although its better as its not totally dead, its still clicking once and not starting, and then starting on the 2nd attempt. Its done this about 3 or 4 times over the past 2 days. It seems to be its first cold start of the day and then again after its been left for a few hours. Has anyone experienced anything like this or have any idea what it might be as i'm getting sick of going backwards and forwards to volvo now ...i've got the bank holiday to contend with now so it wont be going into the garage til tuesday at the earliest leaving me with a car I dont trust to drive til then. The cars a V50 manual 2.0 petrol on a 59 plate. Last edited by RDesignNE; Mar 30th, 2013 at 19:25. |
Mar 31st, 2013, 15:01 | #2 |
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I would have the battery fully checked out, a poor battery can cause this problem and even with a battery showing correct voltage it may not be pushing out the cranking amps to turn the engine over.
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Mar 31st, 2013, 15:35 | #3 |
Brit in Germany
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That what Sony said.
This was posted a few days ago if I remember correctly!? Read the same somewhere... Faulty battery replaced done... Don't just check the battery voltage... You want to know charge and amps... Replace the battery and all will be fine.
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Mar 31st, 2013, 16:02 | #4 |
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Assuming the new starter motor is OK, I'd be looking at all of the high current wiring (from the battery to the starter, and the grounds for both the battery and the starter), and the condition of the battery.
Having the car back three times for such a simple problem is not clever. I'd stick a (polite) flea in their ear! cheers James
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Mar 31st, 2013, 17:31 | #5 |
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Battery. Mine was the same. New battery, no problems since.
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Mar 31st, 2013, 17:34 | #6 |
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Below is a thread I started last year. It may help,,
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=159727 Andy |
Mar 31st, 2013, 19:17 | #7 |
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Many thanks for the replies/suggestions, as always
Although I will ask them to check it out when it goes back again I'm not 100% convinced its the battery. The thoughts i'm having are, Why would it behave in exactly the same way everytime i start it? ie...not crank the first time but crank on the second attempt, then start fine until it was cold again. In my past experience with duff batteries the car starts to behave a bit erratically....flickery panel lights/dash warnings etc. I have none of that. I also have full power to the dash/car while im trying to startup - ie I have power to the radio/headlights etc... Would a dying battery not make the startup of the car behave differently each time? The clicking too, it only happens once, not over and over again as mentioned in the linked thread. Plus the fact its been in to a volvo dealer 3 times, aswell as being examined twice by volvo assitance and i'm sure somewhere down the line, someone would have checked the battery before going ahead and fitting a new starter motor and wiring at cost to volvo? (extended warranty). As I say im not convinced its the battery but stranger things have happened with these modern cars. One thing I failed to mention, The first time it wouldn't start the chap hit the starter with a hammer and it started, I got a dash warning message along the lines of 'power system service urgent'. This went away when the car was switched off and back on again. It hasn't been seen again since. Last edited by RDesignNE; Mar 31st, 2013 at 19:49. |
Mar 31st, 2013, 20:23 | #8 |
Brit in Germany
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Well, if the starter only clicks, then it means something is faulty either there (the magnetic switch) or providing the power.
As it clicks, the solenoid is getting power and enabling the starter to engage. But it sounds as if it isn't engaging properly. So it can be the power supply to the starter motor (not solenoid). Coming to the battery: if the battery is slowly dieing, then it doesn't mean, that all the lights are off. It just means it doesn't have enough power to engage/power the starter motor (which uses a LOT of power from the battery!). The reason why it could start after a few tries, is that the lights and other "power drainers" stimulate the battery and encourage a better power output. The old "rule of fist" here is, if you can't start your car (starter won't turn over) then turn your lights on, leave them on for a few seconds and then try again. In 9 out of 10 times, the car will start but you NEED a new battery... So, back to your car: you try a few times to start the car, by putting the key in, a few drainers are on. You start, starting doesn't work, because battery hasn't been "stimulated" enough. 2nd or 3rd try and it runs... And the reason why it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't: depending on how your battery is performing and the charge put into it, it will work more/less. My car's battery is now 6 years old. About 2 years ago, I was frequently getting the "Battery level low, energy saving mode engaged" message. The battery is STILL the same one and it hasn't said that message for more than 2 years. I don't believe in selfhealing batteries but it worked... So, if your battery produces enough voltage to power all your instruments and computers etc., it can trick the car telling you "battery level low blah blah" but can have too lower amps to power the starter...
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Mar 31st, 2013, 21:32 | #9 |
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interesting points raised there and learned a few things too.
will be sure to get it in somewhere for a more comprehensive battery test before I return it back to volvo again, if needed. Thanks for an informative post. |
Apr 1st, 2013, 02:50 | #10 |
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Just a quick comment, apologies as I have only skimmed the latest posts, but the alternator only tops up the battery, it can never fully charge it.
Perhaps something as simple as removing the battery and giving it a solid trickle charge of at least 12 hours might get things back to normal again. Apologies if I am repeating something I have missed when skimming the newer posts. |
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