0W30 or 5W30

[volvo145]

Originally Posted by skyship007

There is no way I would use a non major brand oil like Comma regardless of how good their web site is or what is written on the cans. Acea specs are done by self certification, so no one checks the actual performance!

Look up there history and who there owner used to be and there web site does not interest me one bit..
Like I said I have never had a problem with there products that I have been using for years in various vehicles.
The oils that I use are not cheap either.
But every ones entitled to there opinion!!

[younger06]

Originally Posted by volvo145

Look up there history and who there owner used to be and there web site does not interest me one bit..
Like I said I have never had a problem with there products that I have been using for years in various vehicles.
The oils that I use are not cheap either.
But every ones entitled to there opinion!!

I used Comma oils for a couple of hundred thousand Kms in my last car without problem, that car has 650,000kms on it now and is still running.

And I agree, it's not particularly cheap. (but is cheaper than the premium rip off merchants)

[Clan]

Originally Posted by 5cilinder

Probably to expensive to let the volvo dealer take care of replacing them there would be more than the cars value
Here and on other forums the post 2005 d5 are masivly complaining and replacing noisy valvelifters

On another note a question for the oil man :-)

GL4 and GL5 hypoid oils , and the myth about syncro cones disolving in Transaxles with hypoid final drives , Truth or old wives Tale ? I've heard the stories but my experience doesn't bear them out .

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by younger06

I used Comma oils for a couple of hundred thousand Kms in my last car without problem, that car has 650,000kms on it now and is still running.

And I agree, it's not particularly cheap. (but is cheaper than the premium rip off merchants)

How many miles or kms an engine has done, does not make much of a difference in engine wear terms, the total number of stop starts and age of the engine are more important with a diesel.

When trying to figure out the condition of an engine, oil consumption is one of the best guides.

I thought Comma were as cheap as the Halfrauds oils and there is an old saying that is very true, "You get what you pay for", although shopping around for a good deal does help.

If you do plan to use supermarket quality oils, Meguin and Foouchs are cheap. MG is owned by Liqui Moly and FU are the major share holder in Liqui Moly. Some cheap Dino based oils like GTX 10w40 can produce good results in UOA terms, BUT only for about 5K miles, after that they thin out due to high temp shearing AND run out of active detergents.

[younger06]

Originally Posted by skyship007

How many miles or kms an engine has done, does not make much of a difference in engine wear terms, the total number of stop starts and age of the engine are more important with a diesel.

When trying to figure out the condition of an engine, oil consumption is one of the best guides.

I thought Comma were as cheap as the Halfrauds oils and there is an old saying that is very true, "You get what you pay for", although shopping around for a good deal does help.

If you do plan to use supermarket quality oils, Meguin and Foouchs are cheap. MG is owned by Liqui Moly and FU are the major share holder in Liqui Moly. Some cheap Dino based oils like GTX 10w40 can produce good results in UOA terms, BUT only for about 5K miles, after that they thin out due to high temp shearing AND run out of active detergents.

Even now, the Skoda in question only takes about a Litre towards the end of it's 15,000km service schedule.
And you have to admit.......650,000kms is impressive!!!!

[5cilinder]

Originally Posted by Clan

On another note a question for the oil man :-)

GL4 and GL5 hypoid oils , and the myth about syncro cones disolving in Transaxles with hypoid final drives , Truth or old wives Tale ? I've heard the stories but my experience doesn't bear them out .

Im not that into diffoils , mostly engine and hydraulic oil
I know the tales but the amount of chemicals in them can not dissolve whole cones even if they want to
The naked eye cant see very slight wear (oil analysis is more accurate)

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by 5cilinder

Im not that into diffoils , mostly engine and hydraulic oil
I know the tales but the amount of chemicals in them can not dissolve whole cones even if they want to
The naked eye cant see very slight wear (oil analysis is more accurate)

The main thing about Diff or transmission oils is using the correct one in GL cat terms AND changing it twice as often as the Volvo Gods say.
Volvo dealership or Liqui Moly oil finder listed only as regards the transmission system.

The yellow metals story relates to some old manual gearboxes that need a GL3 OR GL 3 plus (Good for 3 and 4 groups) oils. It's a very long term issue and most of the flack was directed at Castrol Synthrax for listing GL 5 oils in their oil finder.

Marine grade bronze (It's a yellow metal like brass) was used in the good old days for a few bushes and even low speed shell bearings. It's real tough, does not corrode like brass or fatigue crack like stainless, BUT there are some oil additives that it reacts with. It will not react with Liqui Moly gearbox oil additives (They do a stop leak and one anti wear Moly additive).

[volvoid]

Ive got a gallon of GL5 gear oil at back of garage, years old, brand unknown.
Should I store it for ever, use it in a GL4 diff, or take to the tip ?

[oilman]

Originally Posted by Clan

On another note a question for the oil man :-)

GL4 and GL5 hypoid oils , and the myth about syncro cones disolving in Transaxles with hypoid final drives , Truth or old wives Tale ? I've heard the stories but my experience doesn't bear them out .

Hi

I don't seem to be getting forum notifications on here any more, I just came on to try to find out something for my D5.

The GL4/GL5 thing that seems to be getting more and more well known is based on out of date information. Back in the 1970s, when GL5 oils were first introduced, it was very quickly realised that the additives attacked yellow metals. That was no good to the oil manufacturer or user, so the additive pack was soon changed (by reputable oil companies) so that they use the same additives as in a GL4 oil, but in a higher concentration. That means that GL5 oils from reputable companies will not attack brass synchros. I don't know if that is the case with oils from companies that we don't deal with though.

There are certain GL5 oils that are better as diff oils as they are too slippery for synchros, but they are not attacking the brass.

Cheers

Tim

[Munro83]

Ok so my 2009 v70 2.4d is due for a service, 104k miles, what oil should I be using, 5w30/ 0w40/ 5w40 etc? Castrol or shell helix/ultra? Are they all roughly the same or not? We don't get freezing temperatures anymore. I've used Mobil 1 for years but I'm thinking shell is the way forward?
Soooo confusing