Parking Sensors Kit. Fitting to a S80

[marcus.grant]

Reading this thread S80 Rear Bumper replacement. A number of members talked about why they removed the bumper in the first place. Parking sensor kits started being the main point of that thread.
I thought I would write this thread and title it Parking sensor, as the help on this subject was only a happy accident.

I am having a hard time finding the back of this car, but a bollard didn't. There is no help on the car and old tricks don't work either. I also thought the kits were useless and would stop working in a matter of weeks, leaving black holes, or if they did work it would be costly. But several members had used one kit that works very well.

Using the info I found this site that will give you a wireless display, and several different colour sensor covers for a few pounds.

http://www.pulluptothebumper.com/

I bought the wireless crescent display as one of the members said it fits on the middle of the parcel shelf as if it was made for the job, the good thing is that you can see it in the rear view, and its out of the way without being to noticeable when not being used. I also got silver sensors to match body covers.

Total cost £34.49 with p&p

I will be adding more to this thread as I fit the kit to my S80.

*All Hints and tips please add including any kits you found to be good or bad.*

[Gondor]

Glad you like the idea, mine is still working great.
Gordon

[marcus.grant]

First of all you need to know were to fit the four sensors, by my calculation there would be 44cm left uncovered at the 30cm min limit. So I decided to visit a Volvo dealer and find an S80 with a Factory fit system, it is 40,50,40. However they put there's above the first crease on the bumper.
We are going to put it under that, 40mm above the black clipped skirt, there are two reasons for this.

1. Fitting without the long winded affair of removing the bumper to get round the foam and other fixings.
2. 60 degree cone of the sensor at 30cm from bumper will pick up a high curb that will hit the lowest point of the car the tail pipe; any higher its only posts and car bumper. Curbs are sneaky and my car shows a few scares from the little gits.

Tie string to latch pin and tie a weight to other end, know as a "plum line" draw a line line were the string shows you center, this may take a few attempts until your happy. Tip car should be empty and balanced, ground and tyres.
Now with your known datum you measure 25cm then 65cm, on both sides of datum.
blade of the tape should sit on edge of black clip skirt, now mark 4cm on the 4 upright marks. Center punch each of the 4 cross (any sharp point will do.) This stops the bit wondering around your paint work.

[marcus.grant]

Using the supplied hole cutter, put the bit gently into the indent mark you made. Level drill and square it up to the bumper, pules drill until bit cuts through the plastic skin, and enters foam.
Check the drill angles are right before you allow the saw teeth to bite. The teeth will bite in different places depending on the curve of the plastic, a steady speed will cut the paint cleanly, when you have a full black circle pull the bit back allowing the plastic to cool.

Reason being is you can ram the bit in fast, and as far as you can push it. But you will be digging out melted plastic wrapped around the bit, and filling the cup of the plug cutter. Takes 3 to 5 minutes to clear X 4.

Clear the plastic blank of the bumper skin each time before you cut the next. clean each hole edge to stop paint peeling, brush your finger into the hole center until it clear.

Now you need to put a sensor along side the saw teeth and mark the depth on the shank, plus 1mm. Now you can add the speed to push into the foam to the depth marked. It also melts but easy to remove.

Right we now have 4 clean holes, level and spaced at 40, 50, 40 to center. But what of the cables!
One wire coat hanger, cut a length making a handle that will help apply pressure and turning force to the end of wire. 12inches from the handle make a tight lop with 1" then bend it back on its self. Idea is to melt a slightly bigger hole than the plug. You have 3-4cm of foam to melt through, it is easy and clean with no risk of damaging the hole edges. Make a curve that will allow you to push down 4cm at the back of the hole.
I heated mine with a blow torch, but anything that gives it a slight red glow is fine.

Thread each plug through the cable holes, you may have to run the warm wire through a few times, to get the square plug through a round hole; which as you know is always fun.
Collecting each cable at bottom of the bumper, you need to remember which cable goes to each sensor.
Cables outside into inside, lift boot floor see the breathing pipe from battery it goes through the floor there is a spare mould nipple. Remove a small 4mm hole, I heated the wire again. Using needle nose plies open the rubber neck, push each plug through remembering each one, I grouped them into left and right.

Black box power supply, remove right side boot cover to get to reversing light, pull plug you want Black - and Blue +. How you want to connect the red to blue and black to black is your choice. Stick box to panel, between light and petrol flap lock. connect power, A,B,C,D (A being Left.).

Head unit display, the wireless unit has a plug on it so you can put it in the front. Cut it off; find the center of the parcel shelf place display in the center and stick it when happy.
Its to shallow to drill a hole, but a hot wire dose a quick and clean job. Drop seats and there is 3 poppers, lift panel enough to get hand in, part sound proofing pad under display, push wire through. from boot put wire through hole in metal parcel panel and hook up the wire pull through and hook up to the left reversing light.

Thin cables need to be double up (folded) strip half soldier end or rap wires over insulation for clips to bite and make contact first time.
Tide all cables, and secure them to stop pulling, connection lose etc.

My unit has work very well and tells me if the object is on the left or right. The display can be seen in mirror, while you can use door mirrors for checks.

My parking place has a lavender on left side, but there a public path between my bumper and the shrub; 1.6 is the magic number on the left, the bumper now stays 2mm clear of path and I parked it in one move today. COOL.
I can now tell my wife how far I am away, and its spot on every time and also what side the object is on.

I parked my car 30cm away from a car, I didn't trust it as the darn thing looked like it was in the boot; but the counter was right, I would never have done it by sight. Best £35 spent this year, I can park free again and I use to through a 940 around like a micra. The S80 is a odd car to park, but all this above was well worth it, that is why I have written this How to; So we all can feel free.

Hope it helps you.

[niloc]

Could you post a pic of your finished bumper please?

[CTCNetwork]

Hi,

Originally Posted by marcus.grant

Using the supplied hole cutter, put the bit gently into the indent mark you made. Level drill and square it up to the bumper, pules drill until bit cuts through the plastic skin, and enters foam.
Check the drill angles are right before you allow the saw teeth to bite. The teeth will bite in different places depending on the curve of the plastic, a steady speed will cut the paint cleanly, when you have a full black circle pull the bit back allowing the plastic to cool.

Reason being is you can ram the bit in fast, and as far as you can push it. But you will be digging out melted plastic wrapped around the bit, and filling the cup of the plug cutter. Takes 3 to 5 minutes to clear X 4.

Clear the plastic blank of the bumper skin each time before you cut the next. clean each hole edge to stop paint peeling, brush your finger into the hole center until it clear.

Now you need to put a sensor along side the saw teeth and mark the depth on the shank, plus 1mm. Now you can add the speed to push into the foam to the depth marked. It also melts but easy to remove.

Right we now have 4 clean holes, level and spaced at 40, 50, 40 to center. But what of the cables!
One wire coat hanger, cut a length making a handle that will help apply pressure and turning force to the end of wire. 12inches from the handle make a tight lop with 1" then bend it back on its self. Idea is to melt a slightly bigger hole than the plug. You have 3-4cm of foam to melt through, it is easy and clean with no risk of damaging the hole edges. Make a curve that will allow you to push down 4cm at the back of the hole.
I heated mine with a blow torch, but anything that gives it a slight red glow is fine.

Thread each plug through the cable holes, you may have to run the warm wire through a few times, to get the square plug through a round hole; which as you know is always fun.
Collecting each cable at bottom of the bumper, you need to remember which cable goes to each sensor.
Cables outside into inside, lift boot floor see the breathing pipe from battery it goes through the floor there is a spare mould nipple. Remove a small 4mm hole, I heated the wire again. Using needle nose plies open the rubber neck, push each plug through remembering each one, I grouped them into left and right.

Black box power supply, remove right side boot cover to get to reversing light, pull plug you want Black - and Blue +. How you want to connect the red to blue and black to black is your choice. Stick box to panel, between light and petrol flap lock. connect power, A,B,C,D (A being Left.).

Head unit display, the wireless unit has a plug on it so you can put it in the front. Cut it off; find the center of the parcel shelf place display in the center and stick it when happy.
Its to shallow to drill a hole, but a hot wire dose a quick and clean job. Drop seats and there is 3 poppers, lift panel enough to get hand in, part sound proofing pad under display, push wire through. from boot put wire through hole in metal parcel panel and hook up the wire pull through and hook up to the left reversing light.

Thin cables need to be double up (folded) strip half soldier end or rap wires over insulation for clips to bite and make contact first time.
Tide all cables, and secure them to stop pulling, connection lose etc.

My unit has work very well and tells me if the object is on the left or right. The display can be seen in mirror, while you can use door mirrors for checks.

My parking place has a lavender on left side, but there a public path between my bumper and the shrub; 1.6 is the magic number on the left, the bumper now stays 2mm clear of path and I parked it in one move today. COOL.
I can now tell my wife how far I am away, and its spot on every time and also what side the object is on.

I parked my car 30cm away from a car, I didn't trust it as the darn thing looked like it was in the boot; but the counter was right, I would never have done it by sight. Best £35 spent this year, I can park free again and I use to through a 940 around like a micra. The S80 is a odd car to park, but all this above was well worth it, that is why I have written this How to; So we all can feel free.

Hope it helps you.

Excuse me for being pedantic, but can we have less of the larg green text please?
Contrary to popular belief, it doesn't make you post easier to read or make it more noticeable (apart from the annoyance factor!)..

Des. . .

[marcus.grant]

Bumper1silver.jpgbumper3.jpgParcel-shelf.jpgDisplay-obstical-left.jpg