D5 (D5244T to 2005) Timing Belt Question...

[GSMGuy]

Just received my 3 part kit today (Thanks Simon) Belt, tensioner and idler, and am going to change this tomorrow myself - I have a question or two though...

In VADIS, it makes no mention of removing the crank pulley/damper, but in the diagrams shows it removed.... So does it need to come off, if so, is it a case of the small bolts surrounding the centre bolt, or does the main bolt need to come off...

Secondly, if the main bolt needs to be removed - Whats the best way to lock the crank (auto car)

Indeed Vadis not only makes no mention of removing the pulley/damper, it also does not give any torque settings for it in the destructions, whereas it does give them for the idler/tensioner...


Anyone??

Mike

[GSMGuy]

Well, all done in just over an hour and a quarter today - Have to say it was by far one of the easiest timing belt/tensioner/idler/serpentine belt swaps I have ever done!!

Would have been a lot harder without my new toy though

Mike

[jp11]

You didn't tell us you had a new toy. And it would be very helpful to get a blow-by-blow account of your technique....

[GSMGuy]

Twas easy enough - and the pulley/damper DOES have to come off - 30mm centre bolt and 4 x 13mm around the edge - Was awkward actually getting the new belt around the crank pulley, as it has alloy "guides" on the block to keep it tight against the pulley whilst you are fitting the rest of it - Tensioner and idler were simple one bolt jobs, and there is surprisingly good access, you only need to remove the plastic nuts from the wheel arch liner, not the whole thing, and bend it back - Good idea to ty-rap it to keep it out of the way...

The nut and bolts were TIGHT! VERY TIGHT - this is where the new toy came in handy.... The 30mm nut is supposed to be tightened to 300Nm!

My Snap On CT4850.... 18v cordless impact wrench...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5627uNhaeA

www.motherofallcordlessimpactwrenches.com

It's amazing what 475Nm of torque can do.... The 163bhp D5 only produces 340Nm... No need to lock the crank either... The guns' bolt breakaway torque is actually 840Nm!!!


Mike

[jp11]

Aghh, the new toy - Santa Claus I suppose. Thanks for the info, it's good to know you don't need a locking tool. Are the bolts not single use?
And oh, do you have the Volvo part numbers for the bits used? I've russled up a belt (31258306) and tensioner (30638278), but I'd like to be sure they're right - I still have to get the idler.
And did you replace the serpentine belt, tensioner and idler also?

[GSMGuy]

TBH - I just got the kit - Part No 31258305 from Simon, all 3 components - Didn't bother replacing the serp or tensioner as I replaced the belt due to noise 6k miles ago, and the idler/tensioner on the serp is not a scheduled service item - The Nut/bolts ares not single use as they are not locking, nor thread locked - If they were thread locked, I'd have cleaned them and loctite'd them anyway.

Mike

[Bernard333]

What was the state of the belt when it came off any cracks or obvious signs of wear or potential imminent failure ? The cam belt was changed on my D5 for the first time at 117k miles and looked still good with no signs of cracking or perishing etc , I should have changed it at 90k . The serpentine belt was not changed and that also still looks like new at 137k , I have others cars with much lower mileages , a Ford with a serpentine belt that looks ready to snap any minute now its perished and cracked .

[jp11]

I've heard that if the serp goes it can damage the cambelt.

[cassell]

Originally Posted by jp11

I've heard that if the serp goes it can damage the cambelt.

Quite so... I speak from experience!!

On Boxing Day we were off to a family lunch some 80 miles away and my wife started our S80 D5 185bhp whilst I opened driveway gates, squealing noise from engine followed by several grating noises and clunks before the engine stalled.

On examination, the ribbed alternator/aircon belt had completely shredded with bits of it showing everywhere in the alternator area. As the car is less than two years old and with 40k miles I rang Volvo Assistance who had an RAC vehicle there in under an hour. His first diagnosis was that just the auxilliary belt had failed and he would remove the debris allowing me to drive the car to my local dealer after the Christmas holiday for a new belt.

However on closer inspection the RAC man noted that the belt had been picked up by the cambelt which had snapped! To make his visit worthwhile I got him to help me push the Volvo off the drive so that we could go for lunch in my wife's seven year old Citroen C3, most annoying!

To cut a long story short, my S80 was recovered by Volvo Assistance on Tuesday, taken to Rybrook Volvo Warrington where new belts etc and a new cylinder head are being fitted under warranty and I should have the car back on Monday 4th January as quite understandibly they are letting their mechanics have New Year off!

Their very helpful service department didn't seem particularly surprised by the belt failure and associated damage so it makes me wonder if it's a 'not uncommon' fault on D5 engines, although I have now had three cars (S60 and S80) with this engine and no previous problems. I suppose the moral of the story is that if your auxilliary belt starts to squeal, get it checked out immediately in case it decides to lovingly wrap itself around your cambelt.

Happy New Year!!

Paul

[Telco]

Is there any particular component that typically fails causing the auxilliary belt to fail also ?

Auxilliary tensioner or idler wheel for example ?.

I noticed that there was some play in the aux idler when changing the belt although it did spin smoothly.

Thanks,