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Locks, Keys and Fobs!!

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Old May 2nd, 2012, 20:39   #1
Peter 62
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Default Locks, Keys and Fobs!!

Only had this V70 a few days and while it is growing on me, I really do wish I had spent a lot more time going over the car from top to bottom and checking every single thing!! Hopefully nothing serious (or expensive) will turn up, but am spending more time than I would really like in looking into niggling issues and fixing them.

The Car is a Classic on a W plate (2000)

I have got 2 fobs and 3 keys. The fobs work, but both have broken/cracked cases so will worry about the cosmetics there later. The handbook says that the keys 'should' be 2 masters and one service. I have tried all three keys in the one and only lock on the car (drivers door) and it does nothing. Regardless of which direction I turn it (lock or unlocked) it gets to a point of mild resistance at about 80 degrees and then just slips past it.

I then moved on to check the tailgate lock and there isn't one!! Just some sort of grey coloured blanking plug type of thing.

Is this right? Any ideas? I'm sure you can see my concern about the potential of what may happen one day!!
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 21:08   #2
rallysteve
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The blanking plug on the tailgate should be a flap that opens downward to reveal the lock.

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Old May 2nd, 2012, 21:12   #3
Peter 62
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Thanks for the answer Steve but I think I should have worded my original post a bit better!!

'Under the key flap' there is a grey coloured blanking plug type of thing. This is a new one on me. Dark now, but I'll take a pic in the morning and post it.
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 22:08   #4
Stoney Strike
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I got my last motor, a P reg V70 with 2 keys and a fob. The fob was in bits and never worked to be fair. But the drivers door lock opened everyto problem. The tail gate opened up on it's own via the key slot on the tailgate. The blanking thing s a sure sign of a replaced tail gate to me. Check how it fits around the joins with the body for inconsistencies. The tail gate lock doesn't get used much so shouldn't have worn out.
Tho' the drivers one might've and been replaced with the good barrel on the tail gate I s'pose? What's the miles n condition of your W reg? I looked at one in gold in Bolton recently that claimed 130,000 but I reckon was more like 300,000 goin' on tell tale things like seatsn carpets etc....... Very fishy.....
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 22:23   #5
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Stuck barrels on cars with central locking is quite common as they never get used. get some graphite powder and spray it into the lock then work your key in and out a few times.
Failing that the only course of action is to remove the lock and make sure that the keys are actually for that barrel.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 10:29   #6
Peter 62
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Thanks for the responses.

Bought this from the original and only owner who is one of those people that drives his car and that is it. He probably wouldn't know where the dipstick is!!

Car has done 150k and imo is an honest car. Certainly happy with the bodywork and overall 'shape' of the car (would rather it didn't have the badly scuffed front bumper and broken o/s fog light, but to me it adds to the confirmation of the honesty of the car)

Have just called the bloke I bought it from and he claims that he never used the locks and nothing was ever changed in that regard and never even looked at the tailgate one so had no idea what I was talking about. I have experienced the most seemingly honest people giving me BS when it comes to cars, but the vibes from this bloke are right.

I'll get some graphite powder and hopefully that will solve it. If not, I need to get inside the door anyway, so will delve deeper into the barrel and mechanism itself. As a matter of interest, I think I can guess why graphite over say WD40 or light oil, but would you say it would make that much difference?
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 10:42   #7
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take the triangular plastic cover plate off the inside of the door, next to the 2 torx bolts that hold the handle on (no need to remove the door card as this is just above the striker plate) Insert a screwdriver into the slot (same size as the slot) and press. Hold it in whilst turning and wiggling the key in the lock and pull. Barrell should slide out - even if it's not the correct key for the lock, with a bit of jiggery pokery, the barrel may come out as moving the key in and out/side to side whilst pulling will move the sping loaded lock pins - hard to describe but you willl see when the barrell is out

If not, undo the 2 torx bolts and take the handle out with the barrell in place - again, there is no need to remove the door card. Even if you do remove it, there's not much to see and no room.
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Last edited by jeremycolley; May 3rd, 2012 at 10:42. Reason: spelling
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 10:59   #8
Andy Northface
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Did you recieve your fob back Jeremy?
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 11:00   #9
Peter 62
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Cheers Jeremy.....perfect timing.....just on way out door to play!!

I'll do exactly as you say and will advise how I get on.

Still have to do door card at some time. It is a bit loose in one corner and there is an issue with the stay/retainer that doesn't seem to match the common problem I have found on here so far, so will investigate before asking.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 11:49   #10
jeremycolley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Northface View Post
Did you recieve your fob back Jeremy?
yes thanks Andy, sorry, I forgot to let you know

I believe we both need part no 9442983 to go with the alarm relay no 91 48 881, although usually the part no's have worn off the second hand fobs
, so its still a guessing game when buying off ebay
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