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850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models |
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2000 V70 Classic Auto TransmissionViews : 1534 Replies : 9Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 9th, 2012, 21:00 | #1 |
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2000 V70 Classic Auto Transmission
My transmission seems to slightly slip when changing between 2nd and 3rd. Is this a sign of a rectifiable problem or a more serious problem. It only has 87K on the clock but was used for towing by a previous owner.
I spoke to a Main Volvo dealer who suggested that I might need a new transmission (quel surprise) I mean it could be the case, but it seems a bit extreme - particularly when they quoted £4,400 - I had to laugh. Should I need to replace the transmission does anyone know if there are any reputable companies that supply rebuilt transmissions around - in the West London area. Thanks, Eugene Last edited by Eugene Hines; May 9th, 2012 at 21:08. |
May 10th, 2012, 08:19 | #2 |
RUTRUNNER
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I'd be checking the obvious stuff first..!
ie...ATF level and condition...it may be that it simply needs an ATF change if it's been a towing workhorse. If the ATF is dark colour and has a burnt smell..then renew it. Which box is it.?...4 or 5 speed.? Neil
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classic V70 1999MY 20 valve non turbo, auto (adaptive) B5254. ETM/Denso Previous Volvos...264 auto...loved it. 340 manual...not so loved. 760 auto...loved it. |
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May 10th, 2012, 10:06 | #3 |
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In addition if a 5 speed box, have a look on the 2000> forum for 'B4 servo', this maybe applicable to your car.
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May 10th, 2012, 13:32 | #4 |
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As it happens was nattering with our local Volvo indy the other day, and a price came up in conversation of £800 or £900 to supply and fit a second-hand (not re-con) 4-speed autobox with a 3-month waranty to a 2.5 phase 1 V70.
I think for a reconditioned gearbox you'd be looking at double that, and as you've found out, for a new gearbox from Volvo you'd need to sell one of your private jets! But only the other week I found that a 'snatched' gear change from cold on my 1997 V70 (261,000 miles and still on the original box and fluid) was cured when I checked and then topped up the fluid! I did it all by the book and needed to add just 200ml of new fluid. I am considering a fluid change, but would do the 'sump only' method over a couple weeks, rather than risk changing the lot in one go. Cheers Jack |
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May 13th, 2012, 09:58 | #5 |
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My transmission is a 4 speed auto. I had the ATF changed at my local Main Volvo dealer recently. Despite the low mileage, I now suspect that as the previous owner towed with it (what I have no idea) the problems are as a result of this use.
I had a conversation with another dealer who suggested that it might be the clutches within the auto box that might need replacing......? Actually I was surprised that it was only a four speed gearbox on my 2.4 engine. I suppose one could replace the existing four speed with a five speed should the need to change the gearbox arise. In any event, many thanks for your reply and comments. Eugene |
May 13th, 2012, 10:04 | #6 |
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Being a 2000 registered car if it's non Turbo I would be expecting the five speed auto box, if it's got a turbo engine then more probable to have the four speed unit but no gaurantee - Mike
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May 13th, 2012, 13:37 | #7 |
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Cog counting?
Not sure about this as my gearbox is a 4-speed, but does the selector have PRND32L for a 4-speed, or PRND432L, in which case it'd be a 5-speed?
Is it as simple as that? But I don't think it's quite that easy to swap gearboxes as Eugene asks. I believe that there might be a bit more to it than a straigt swap? Cheers Jack |
May 13th, 2012, 15:59 | #8 |
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IIRC with some autos it's recommended to change the fluid every 80k anyway.
My V70 and 850 both say PRND3L.
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May 15th, 2012, 11:29 | #9 |
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not big deal - can be fixed - change fluid, update software , perhaps a B4 servo cover, should do the trick. flares are caused by sludge - found out first hand. my tranny felt like it was going to jump out of the car, and run away. and it was fixed by those few steps - plus a few torque mounts
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May 15th, 2012, 14:29 | #10 | |
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Quote:
Check the fluid with a hot engine. Leave the engine ticking over and cycle through all the gear positions and return it to neutral. Then - and only then - take the dipstick out, wipe it, put it fully back in, pull it out and see what the level is. Anything even slightly outside the limits is likely to cause problems. Don't rely on checking the level using the "cold" markings on the dipstick. Cheers
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