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Guide/How to remove EGR valve/Turbo

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Old Mar 23rd, 2011, 18:18   #21
EddieC
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Default If you haven't already replaced it....

I just replaced mine, bought a new unit from Turbo Dynamics. It's a new unit that apparently supercedes the previous parts. See http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop/...lt-p-2261.html
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Old Apr 8th, 2011, 13:43   #22
Buckoboy
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Default Gaskets

Just doing this procedure and have bought both gaskets described, not sure if the egr (metal one) was that bad but changing anyway.

The gaskets cost:

30662337 - Rubber body seal £10.40
30621283 - Metal EGR seal £7.90

Anyone know what egr stands for?
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Old Apr 8th, 2011, 13:45   #23
Buckoboy
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Default EGR not split

My EGR valve was hard to get out but did come out in one piece, riveted together.
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Old Apr 8th, 2011, 15:56   #24
Buckoboy
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Angry Help!!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biotoxic View Post
Friday night quiz....
lost power again, I was able to get home using more than 3000 rpms. At home I opened up the bonnet, removed that plastic cover and I noticed soot and some oil spilled on the heat shield, soot was mostly between engine and wind screen.....
will take some pictures as I am working to find a fault.
Did you find out what the fault was, i have just put all the cleaned egr and throttle body back together with new gaskets and on the test drive it appears to have the same symptoms. It has no power until about 3000 revs? There seems more smoke than before too....

I had the same problem and after removing the egr valve again, found lots of crumbs of soot wedged in the valve plates.

Runs like a dream :-)

Last edited by Buckoboy; Apr 8th, 2011 at 17:39. Reason: Problem solved
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Old Apr 8th, 2011, 21:35   #25
Biotoxic
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Default

I have sorted that out few months ago. I tightened 2 bolts under turbo, that holds oil return pipe in place, there was a leak, because I didn't tightened that properly. and I had oil leak(compression leak) from the egr valve. I used home made gasket with original metal one, this sealed that even with one of the bolt threads ruined(overtightened). My advice to you would be: Check for any oil leaks, if there is any then find out from where its coming from.

Was there excessive oil residue when you removed inner part of EGR?

If there was, then oil from crankcase is entering intercooler.



Now I have new, strange problems. Loosing engine coolant... no leaks, no traces of mayonnaise in oil.... I will investigate these issues this weekend.
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Old Apr 9th, 2011, 18:09   #26
Biotoxic
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Cool

I remembered What I did afterwards... So listen Up!


Once you have cleaned EGR valve and intake manifold(don't forget clean those two holes in intake manifold connecting to EGR, they are hard to reach and clean)
Make sure that everything is tightened up properly.

Once you have done that, car could feel sluggish or accelerating really slowly( low on power in low rpms)

Best thing that you can do is take it to the motorway. I was doing about 20-25 mile journey to Belfast at around 60 mph. At first car felt really low on power and I was struggling to pick up speed from low rpms in town. After those 20-25 miles when I stopped at first traffic light I was a bit worried about that lack of power, so I revved engine around 3000 rpms and I expected a slow start, bet releasing the clutch car went flying... I was a bit surprised. From then everything was fine.


But to make long story short and technical.
( I found this out just few days ago from the proper volvo mechanic)

If you cleaned your EGR valve and Inlet manifold, if the car struggles to accelerate from low rpms, if you have that DPI filter( or what ever that name was) You can fix that sluggishness by driving on motorway.

Before you do the fallowing, check that the oil and engine coolant level are within the recomended limits!!!!!!!!

Shift in 4th and drive about 2 miles around 4000rpms... I did this just today, around 3500 rpms I was doing close to 76mph. After those two miles shift it to 5th and do a normal driving for few miles. When you reach your destination
let the car idle for at least not less than 2-3 minutes. Turbo, exhaust pipe and some other parts will get really hot during those 2 miles at 4000rpms. So it is essential that you let the engine cool down before you switch of the engine.

Reason for doing this is that at those high rpms and temperatures oil residue, soot or other particles will just burn away leaving exhaust pipe and that filer that picks up and cleans exhaust fumes clean. This should even burn or melt any soot off from cylinder heads and some oil residue from valves as well. Some or most of you have probably seen how my cylinder head looked like after I removed that.. soot everywhere, it even blocked one of the injector nozzles.

Oh yeah, and after that fast drive when you leave you car idling for those few minutes, open up the bonnet and just in case look for any oil leaks


This should cure sluggishness eventually.

If some one try this, then let us know how it went.
This worked for me.
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Old Apr 11th, 2011, 17:39   #27
craigm1
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Default

I just had a look at my engine and it looks like the outer part of the EGR valve is missing , but cant see any loose plugs ?

Fund it hanging by the plug , but there is no bracket to attach it with .

Last edited by craigm1; Apr 11th, 2011 at 20:11.
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Old May 16th, 2011, 16:12   #28
Biotoxic
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Cool

This thread will be updated with extra info and pictures over time. Today there should be a new image added with info containing procedure to remove exhaust pipe from turbo and it should help a lot if you decide to remove extra bolts

And I requested a name change as well. Will see how it goes
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Old May 17th, 2011, 16:05   #29
lone123
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Default

Biotoxic

Your pics have been great - helped me loads to fit things back but why some pics not loading?

cheers
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Old May 17th, 2011, 20:59   #30
Biotoxic
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Default

just wait a bit more or use somebodys elses computer, might be because of slow internet speed
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