Autobox fluid change????

[tannachyallen]

Hi all,
I would like some advice as to whether to change my autobox fluid or not. At the moment the car runs great, no gearbox problems and the fluid is a pretty good colour (not burnt or whitish etc). However, I have no idea when or if it has ever been changed (or the filter). It's done 140,000 at present.

My V70 XC was killed by letting the autobox fluid get thick and grungy, so that when it was changed at 200,000 miles the new fluid didn't have the viscosity to hold the ailing box inards together and it just kept going into limp home mode due to slipping clutches.

I know this is a much simpler/robust box, that said, what's the concensus?

1: everythings OK, leave well alone.
2: change it now before things get too grungy.

Regards,

Dave A.

[Mike_Brace]

A fluid change would do no harm and you then know when it was changed for the future. If you have a good box that woukd ensure it stays that way.

Mike

[tannachyallen]

Thanks Mike. I suppose I'm a little cautious because of the experience with the V70. What sort of intervals do you change your autobox fluid?

Regards,

Dave A.

[Macp]

Heartily recommended

I got mine done and it definitely improved the performance of the box.

[DW42]

If you plan to do the job yourself, a simple way is to use a Pela pump (sump pump) -- then it's just a case of sticking the pump hose down the trans dipstick tube to remove the fluid. It won't get the filter clean though (I assume there is one...), but I don't personally think that this is a big issue. Maybe others will disagree?

David

[tannachyallen]

Originally Posted by DW42

a simple way is to use a Pela pump (sump pump) -- then it's just a case of sticking the pump hose down the trans dipstick tube to remove the fluid.

I've just had a look at them online..........amazing. So you pump and it will then suck out all the fluid through the dipstick tube? That easy? Really!!

Regards,

Dave A.

[minesa240x3]

The oil change is a bit more involved than just draining the sump!
Depends if you want to change ALL the oil?there is oil in the torque converter which will stay in there when draining the sump.there will also be some left in the oilcooler radiator which is integral with the water radiator.
Haynes has a good report on how to do it.My first change was vital as the oil was very much like water and black smelling of burning.

The first change was just drain and refill.this helped dilute the black stuff firstand help flush it out.
The second change was carried out following the haynes method which flushes the rad and torque converter.basically you disconnect one of the oil cooler pipes so that as you fill the box with the engine running it flushes the old oil out with new oil.You need to measure the quantity as it makes sure you don't overfill when finished.You disconnect the return to gearbox pipe thereby stopping the old oil getting back to it.You should see new oil coming through if it's black but if yours is clean it tells you how much is in the torque converter and rad so you can catch that amount knowing all has been changed.

I think if your oil is looking good then just drain and refill as this should mix with the few litres left inside and be fine.

Regards Brian.

[DW42]

Originally Posted by tannachyallen

I've just had a look at them online..........amazing. So you pump and it will then suck out all the fluid through the dipstick tube? That easy? Really!!

Regards,

Dave A.

Yes -- it's that simple. I use my Pela for trans fluid changes and oil changes. I only ever remove the oil sump bolt when I want to check if there's anything stuck to the magnet. I've even used the Pela to bleed the brakes when I replaced a line to the rear brakes and was having trouble getting all of the air bubbles out. I attached a thin piece of PCV rubber tubing to the pump and the brake bleeder, pumped the pump, gave the brake pedal a few very small pumps, then you can watch through the clear tubing to see if air bubbles are still being drawn through (while keeping the booster tank topped up of course!).

But as Brian said, if the ATF looks dodgey you would be better off draining the whole lot and perhaps changing the filter too.

David
1971 144DL; 1988 240GL (saved from the scrappers,and now getting a workover)

[tannachyallen]

Many thanks for all the help and suggestions. Sounds like the concensus is to get it changed one way or the other. I'll let you know how I proceed.

Regards,

Dave A.

[Mike_Brace]

Originally Posted by tannachyallen

Thanks Mike. I suppose I'm a little cautious because of the experience with the V70. What sort of intervals do you change your autobox fluid?

Regards,

Dave A.

I tend to change it every 2-3 years 50-80,000 miles. I'm not sure what is the recommended figure.