2003 Volvo V70 D5 AWD - to scrap or to repair?

[ashfp]

It's a Volvo V70 automatic with approx 171k miles on the clock. Timing belt was done last year, gearbox was reconditioned about 6 years ago and we've had relatively no issues with it until recently. It went into the garage with an oil leak and for it's MOT. It has failed the MOT with the list at the bottom of the page.

The main problems being:
- The rear self levelling shocks are £458 from volvo (and we should probably get both done if we were going to have them done?).
- They think the oil leak is coming from behind the engine, which means having the automatic gearbox out etc out - leading to large labour costs? (500+ was mentioned for this alone)
- It's failing the emissions - they're unsure as to what exactly is causing this at the moment.
- Service break not working - this has not worked for 5+ years and has not been a problem on previous MOTs?

I just wanted to get the opinions of the community before giving up on it, I'm very fond of the car and would be sad to see it go!
Or whether anyone would be interested in buying the car? It's got a new refurbished alarm siren unit, all of the black leather seats are in fantastic condition (fronts are heated and electric controlled).

Any advice appreciated!



Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):
Nearside Rear Brake pad(s) less than 1.5 mm thick (1.1.13 (a) (ii))
Rear Brake disc in such a condition that it is seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
Repair immediately (major defects):
Offside Rear Registration plate lamp inoperative in the case of a single lamp or all lamps (4.7.1 (b) (ii))
Nearside Rear Shock absorbers has a serious fluid leak (5.3.2 (b))
Nearside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush excessively worn d bush (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush excessively worn d bush (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Oil leaking excessively from engine (8.4.1 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Exhaust emissions exceed manufacturer's specified limit (8.2.2.2 (a))
Service brake efficiency below requirements (1.2.2 (a) (i))
Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i))

[green van man]

Can you do any of it yourself?
Are the prices quoted for volvo parts? Good quality factor parts are available far cheaper.

That's brake issues could well be sorted with new disks and pads plus a fluid change and new handbrake shoes. All relatively cheap from factors.

The biggest issue is the emotions and oil leak. Emotions could be a gunned up induction system for instance, owners clean them, garages replace them. Oil leak could be rear crank oil seal, itself not expensive but the box has to come out to fix it..


The shocks are I belive Monroe units and can be sourced elsware

Who does your maintenance?
We're it my car I would be having words with them that it got into the state it is.

Is it worth it?

Well it's a banger, what's it worth to you and how much will it cost to replace? Only you can answer that.

Currently it is only worth scrap value to anyone else.

Running old cars is only viable if you can do the majority of the work yourself, they inevitably need bits replaced, they are not service once a year and forget items or you quickly end up in your position facing big bills. If you cannot do it yourself there are collage courses that could help. If you unable to do it yourself perhaps look at lease cars.

I run a 26 year old land-rover, it's a hobby car. The time and money I have spent on it far outweighs it's monetary value. However the volvo will go before it, it has a personality, the volvo is just a good car.

Paul.

[Rocinante]

Originally Posted by green van man

If you unable to do it yourself perhaps look at lease cars.

That seems a bit of a leap, to say if you can't carry out your own maintenance, switch from a 17 year old car with 171k miles on it, to a brand new car on a lease. Surely there is some compromise somewhere in the middle.

If you are sticking to a car of that age, from a quick look on Auto trader, how about 2005, 165k miles, MOT till 29th January, for £1495, (say £200 for scrap for your car) and so you can can have an MOT'd, less miles, newer car for £1295, and you're considering spending what looks like well over £2000 repairing you current car, with no apparent obvious resolution ?

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-det...del=V70&page=1

You might have the same issue in January, of course, with the next MOT in January, but you could try and get a fresh MOT from the dealer on purchase of your new one, which at least gives you 12 months, and you should get 6 months warranty from defects from a dealer regardless due to the consumer rights act.

You can also check what advisories there were on the last MOT if you have the registration, which May give you an idea what to expect at the next one.
https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk...581.1582533521

[Welton]

The biggest problems are:

Rear Dampers
Oil Leak (I'm surprised the oil leak wasn't an 'advisory' though)
Emissions

I don't like seeing a known family car condemned so my thoughts to keep it running are:

Can't the self-levelers be binned for traditional dampers?

The oil leak could potentially be 'cleaned off' just prior to the next MOT? is there no undertray? if not a second hand tray will catch the leak enough to get through the test (they can't remove any trays etc).

Emissions could just be a clean of the inlet system - and a good run before the MOT? fresh oil change, some fuel additive and new air filter would help here?

Brakes and Suspension bushes shouldn't cost too much.

Not being funny but can you trust the Garage? they're not trying to build up the repairs?

[biggbn]

Originally Posted by Welton

The biggest problems are:

Rear Dampers
Oil Leak (I'm surprised the oil leak wasn't an 'advisory' though)
Emissions

I don't like seeing a known family car condemned so my thoughts to keep it running are:

Can't the self-levelers be binned for traditional dampers?

The oil leak could potentially be 'cleaned off' just prior to the next MOT? is there no undertray? if not a second hand tray will catch the leak enough to get through the test (they can't remove any trays etc).

Emissions could just be a clean of the inlet system - and a good run before the MOT? fresh oil change, some fuel additive and new air filter would help here?

Brakes and Suspension bushes shouldn't cost too much.

Not being funny but can you trust the Garage? they're not trying to build up the repairs?

You saved me the bother. What he said.

[green van man]

Originally Posted by Rocinante

That seems a bit of a leap, to say if you can't carry out your own maintenance, switch from a 17 year old car with 171k miles on it, to a brand new car on a lease. Surely there is some compromise somewhere in the middle.

If you are sticking to a car of that age, from a quick look on Auto trader, how about 2005, 165k miles, MOT till 29th January, for £1495, (say £200 for scrap for your car) and so you can can have an MOT'd, less miles, newer car for £1295, and you're considering spending what looks like well over £2000 repairing you current car, with no apparent obvious resolution ?

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-det...del=V70&page=1

You might have the same issue in January, of course, with the next MOT in January, but you could try and get a fresh MOT from the dealer on purchase of your new one, which at least gives you 12 months, and you should get 6 months warranty from defects from a dealer regardless due to the consumer rights act.

You can also check what advisories there were on the last MOT if you have the registration, which May give you an idea what to expect at the next one.
https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk...581.1582533521

If he cannot maintain it himself any banger is going to cost him a lot of money.
A lease including maintenance could well end up cheaper for him..

I put the options to him, it his decision.

I speak from a lifetimes experience of running and repairing older cars, not always my own. They are not service once a year and forget items, if the op wants that type of motoring then a lease car makes perfect sense.
Once the welding starts the costs really spiral if you cannot DIY

Paul.

[Rocinante]

Originally Posted by green van man

If he cannot maintain it himself any banger is going to cost him a lot of money.
A lease including maintenance could well end up cheaper for him..

I put the options to him, it his decision.

I speak from a lifetimes experience of running and repairing older cars, not always my own. They are not service once a year and forget items, if the op wants that type of motoring then a lease car makes perfect sense.
Once the welding starts the costs really spiral if you cannot DIY

Paul.

I didn't disagree that running an old car and having the repairs carried out for you, could cost. My view of leasing though is that it is for newer cars, and as such, there will be quite a price disparity between trying to run an older car, even with repairs, and leasing a new car, with the leasing being the more expensive, as you are essentially paying for a new car.

But as I've never looking in to leasing, I don't really know what the price points are.

As you stated though, it gives him options to look in to.

[Sotosound]

Originally Posted by Rocinante

I didn't disagree that running an old car and having the repairs carried out for you, could cost. My view of leasing though is that it is for newer cars, and as such, there will be quite a price disparity between trying to run an older car, even with repairs, and leasing a new car, with the leasing being the more expensive, as you are essentially paying for a new car.

But as I've never looking in to leasing, I don't really know what the price points are.

As you stated though, it gives him options to look in to.

Leasing is for cash flow and peace of mind since everything's covered by a cost and since you get a new car where in, theory, nothing apart from tyres should wear out.

However, it's costly, you have to watch your mileage, and at the end of the lease you have no car.

Buying a car of any age means that you at least have a car until you decide not to.

Moreover, you can probably get a better used car than a leased car for the same outlay. For instance, you could lease a Ford Focus with a little 3-cylinder engine or you could buy a used Volvo V70 D5.

[ashfp]

Thank you for all the replies!

In terms of maintenance - I was gifted the car from a family member a couple of years ago and it had perhaps missed a couple of services the last couple of years before that. After I received it, I had the timing belt changed, a new starter motor was fitted and carried out a full service (oils, all filters). I had an auto electrician look at a code thrown about the brakes. And I fitted a new alarm unit to remove the last code on the dashboard.

After this, I was putting on about a thousand miles per month, and the car was driving great! I changed the oil+filter about every 8k miles.

From the last MOT - the rear brakes were the only advisory! So I didn't really expect there to be such a big bill this time. The MOT a few years ago brought up the rear shocks as an advisory as leaking. I've used this garage for quite a long time, and I don't think they were trying to rip me off, as they called me as soon as the bills started to rack up.

From what I've read - this oil leak is probably the core plug, which unfortunately isn't an issue you can ignore.

I worked out if I could do all of the work apart from the core plug (that's definitely beyond my skillset), then it would still be about £1000 or so in parts (second hand shocks)+labour.

Is anyone aware of a north-east garage that might be able to carry out the core plug work cheaper?

I think my main concern would be if I get another big bill in a years time.

[Rocinante]

Not technically minded myself or from your neck of the woods, hopefully others can help out there, but these threads might provide a little useful background info for you if you're keen to keep it going:

This one seems to detail the replacement:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=182891

This one has a figure of £300, if it's talking about the same thing, but also has someone suggesting an alternate fix (bodge), without removing the gearbox, which in your circumstance. may well do.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...ight=core+plug

4th Post down on this one mentions £1100, in 2013, but included full clutch kit & DMF plus main crank oil seal.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...ight=core+plug

Can I also suggest, you add a post in the V70 forum, as you may get some more specific knowledge there.
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19