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XC90 Handbrake adjustment

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Old Mar 27th, 2016, 20:25   #11
JohnL
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Have you fitted the adjustable adjuster in the brake drum? It fits instead of the fixed link.
The info is in the Articles at the top of this forum.
John
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Old Mar 27th, 2016, 20:32   #12
colinbos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnL View Post
Have you fitted the adjustable adjuster in the brake drum? It fits instead of the fixed link.
The info is in the Articles at the top of this forum.
John

I have John, thank you for checking that with me.

Ive been on a run today and pumped the footbrake periodically to bed them in, using it to stop when i could. They definitely hold much better than my old shoes, albeit on a 6-7 click.

Ive taken the wheels and callipers off again today to fine tune the 'new adjuster'. I will split the internal adjuster again tomorrow. I will know if I have reached the limit of the adjusters travel, because I'll either 'snap it' or it won't go anymore.

I have new cables on order, just in case !
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Old Mar 28th, 2016, 20:27   #13
60041
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If you have fitted the threaded adjusters in the rear hubs, you should start by releasing the front adjuster right back to its stop, then taking up as much slack as possible with the threaded adjusters; run them right up until you can hear and feel the brakes starting to drag, then back them off a few clicks until the brakes are just free; then make the final adjustment using the front adjuster and aim for no more than 4 or 5 clicks on the pedal.
The reason you are running out of adjustment at the front is that you have set up the screw adjusters too short.
If you haven't already worked it out, the screw adjusters are adjusted a click at a time by using a small screwdriver through one of the bolt holes in the rear hub to turn the toothed wheel.
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Old Mar 28th, 2016, 21:36   #14
colinbos
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Thanks all. Heres an update.

I bedded the shoes in using the pumping method on a decent drive. The footbrake was holding well on click 6-7, So i was inclined to think I needed to 're-adjust' the drum adjusters after the bedding in and the cable adjuster more.

I took the clapper of each back wheel to assist with judging with the shoes touching the rotor and then backing off '1' notch. Perfect on both wheels.

Now, I believed I needed more leverage to get the adjuster moving.

I bought a 15inch wrecking bar, and notched the top of it to fit over the cable adjuster.

IMG_3050.JPG

Thats it above. It fits well.

Then I separated the cable using pipe remover tool, just to get it open.

IMG_3047.JPG

When I had some space I began to open up the gap in the adjuster and as you can see I got a wrench and a smaller one between the wrecker bar to give me leverage, It was so easy using these to open up and get more out of the adjuster.

IMG_3048.JPG
IMG_3049.JPG
IMG_3053.JPG
IMG_3054.JPG


All of that gave me the following adjuster showing these threads,

IMG_3055.JPG


After all that, I have a MEGA footbrake, engaging on 3 picks and holding the car very very well.

Now, Im not saying that its ideal having that many threads showing, but it ISNT detrimental as the car is holding very well.

I time, when needed I will change the rear cables, and possibly the front cable, if I experience any issues.

Id rather have the handbrake working right now as I have a caravan trip coming up !

Who knows, I may not even get any problems from any of this.
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Old Mar 28th, 2016, 21:40   #15
colinbos
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Pics that wouldn't load earlier
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Old Mar 28th, 2016, 21:44   #16
colinbos
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I can't loads any more pics for some reason.

Anyway, the threaded part of the adjuster comes out a fair way, more than an inch, without any problems, it appears at this time.
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Old May 10th, 2016, 14:30   #17
colinbos
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Just a follow up to the handbrake on my car. It appears I have a warped disc on the offside rear, so I ordered full brake discs pads and handbrake shoes from Volvo and new calliper springs.

Id just like to point out the difference between after market parts and Volvo genuine parts on two of the items I've bought.

On the handbrake shoes, you will notice in the picture below the 'flat spot' on the top of the shoe. On after market parts you do not get this, and this maybe a crucial point to ensuring proper and effective holding of the handbrake when applied.


As for the spring, you may or may not know, but the actual ends of the spring are significantly longer than say a Bremtech equivalent. They are at least 15mm compared to under 10mm on a Bremtech item ( i have used them). I believe this will keep the spring in position far better, than an after market part.

Moral. Always use proper parts.
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Old May 10th, 2016, 20:22   #18
Chesney46
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The brake shoes completely confused me when I stripped mine. I saw the flat spot and thought they were fubar'd, bought a new set to find that's how they are! I just added the manual adjusters and hey presto, a working park brake.
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Old May 10th, 2016, 20:38   #19
colinbos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chesney46 View Post
The brake shoes completely confused me when I stripped mine. I saw the flat spot and thought they were fubar'd, bought a new set to find that's how they are! I just added the manual adjusters and hey presto, a working park brake.
Thats how my mind works as well. Ive never professed to be clever, just inquisitive !
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