Right Hand Engine Mounting B200F

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

There must be a reason that a job which was truly easy has become, not so easy.


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It's curious, that. I remember when I was young it seemed almost a doddle replacing a gearbox. That was in the open air using just a bottle jack and a pile of bricks. Now only 50 years later the mere thought of doing it seems like hard work. What on earth can have happened?

Actually there is another way of doing the engine mounts and that is to hang it from a stout bit of timber across the wings.
Place the jack well to the RH side of the engine - it doesn't matter if it gets in the way of removing the engine mounting. Then undo the nuts (6 ?) holding the mountings to the cross member, and rest a length of 3 x 2 on edge on thick padding across the wings. Jack the engine cautiously until the projecting bolts are clear of the cross member, wedging the engine with blocks of wood (eg logs) to stop it moving sideways, and attach a pair of rope or chains to the engine and lower the jack so that it and any spacers or wedges can be removed.
The engine is now hanging supported clear of obstuctions and you can unbolt and replace the mountings.

I originally used this method as an alternative to dropping the cross member in order to remove the sump. (Somewhere way back I wrote an account of replacing an oil pump like this)

[CosmicBike]

I do recall a little bit of huffing and puffing, laying underneath and trying to get a ratchet on the 3 bolts inside the crossmember working 'blind' got a bit sweary
I often think I should have done all this stuff when I was younger, but had hands full with kids so it's now or never.

[Stephen Edwin]

Many thanks to all of thee. I'm on my way to bed now. Tomorrow morning the car goes to a local independent garage. One man, his workshop and his MOT bay.

I shall revert to this thread to express outstanding individual thanks, and to express and explain my cogitations a bit. Putting "stuff" together I do suspect that the right hand mounting is at a different angle when a car has power steering.

Goodnight.


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[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Othen

I think it will be just the same as a B21a motor, so this post may help:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...postcount=1347

Thank you. That post in your blog is rather relevant and informative. Approx you said the offside engine mount looked fiendishly difficul to access. Quite so. And very different from the 245 I did the job on years ago. Doing that one was so straight forward it led me to believe that 240 mechanics are straightforward. As for feeling the need to remove the oil filter and alternator and the mounting brackets. What !?!?!? It is doable but life is short. When I was a little younger changing the engine mounting was a slice of gateau of a job.

Something is different and your jam jar is slightly older that the 245 I did the job on previously. And I note yours has power steering. My 245 did not have power steering. This is "informing2 my thinking, a possible clue as to what has happened re that engine mounting.

Hey noni noni ....


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[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

I recall that when I replaced both mounts some years ago I discovered that it was easier to jack the engine and remove the entire alloy mount bracket at the engine block and at the sub-frame, replace the rubber mount itself, and then re-bolt to the engine.
The engine can then be gently lowered into place, levering the projecting bolts into their holes in the cross member.
There is very little flexibility at the actual rubber mount, but the increased leverage and the better visibility at the sub-frame greatly aids aligning the holes.

If the RH mount is broken then the LH mount becomes vital to retaining control of the heavy slanted engine. Just pray that mount is still sound - you really don't want to have the engine balanced in the air on a jack while you replace it. !

Thank you Clifford. And you also removed the alloy mount brackets. Interesting.


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[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

I recall that when I replaced both mounts some years ago I discovered that it was easier to jack the engine and remove the entire alloy mount bracket at the engine block and at the sub-frame, replace the rubber mount itself, and then re-bolt to the engine.
The engine can then be gently lowered into place, levering the projecting bolts into their holes in the cross member.
There is very little flexibility at the actual rubber mount, but the increased leverage and the better visibility at the sub-frame greatly aids aligning the holes.

If the RH mount is broken then the LH mount becomes vital to retaining control of the heavy slanted engine. Just pray that mount is still sound - you really don't want to have the engine balanced in the air on a jack while you replace it. !

Originally Posted by CosmicBike

Did both of mine that way, near impossible to get just the mounts on their own out, or indeed new ones in any other way.

Thank you Cosmic. "near impossible to get get just the mounts on their own out." Something has changed since the 245 I did the job on years ago.


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[Stephen Edwin]

Nitty Gritti ...

I am on record cogitating my future in my fading abilities. Age and health. But. This is in my respectful submission a clear instance of the goal posts having been moved.

The 245 job did not look fiendishly or any other nature of difficult. And I twiddled one spanner or socket and did the job. No need to disturb anything except the nuts fixing the mounting itself. Kushti.

The design on my current 240 has the mounting approximately 45 degrees from front to back. Lifting the engine is approximately vertical. Do the approximate geometry re that arrangement.

Everything would I think indicate seriously redesigned mounting brackets?

Anther aspect. Perhaps the studs on the engine mounting are longer than necessary now? That would not help the job. Indeed it might be an idea to, shorten the studs. Keeping them long enough to be secure.

Anyways. As it happ4ns the garage man says do left and right mountings together, at the same time. I have not asked how he will support the engine.

If I thought I could use it again, I'd buy a commercially made support beam to go across the engne bay. Good ones crop up pre-owned for sale.

Thank you everyone for your advice. I expect to have the car back with me by Thursday next week. The garage chap is very busy he is keeping the car for me until he does the job. Many garages are very busy. The MOT amnesty re covid is part of that. Changes in time scales can have knock on effects.





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[classicswede]

Every 240 has the same type of mounts from start of production to the end.
Simple case of undo the 3 nuts from under teh crossmember and teh 3 bolts from the block then remove. Undo the the rubber mount and fit teh new one. The locating pins make sure the position is correct. Then a fairly easy job of refit in reverse

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by classicswede

Every 240 has the same type of mounts from start of production to the end.
Simple case of undo the 3 nuts from under teh crossmember and teh 3 bolts from the block then remove. Undo the the rubber mount and fit teh new one. The locating pins make sure the position is correct. Then a fairly easy job of refit in reverse

Well when I did the job on the 245 someone must have done all that stuff while my back was turned. How kind of them.

Something has changed.


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P.S. EDIT. If I had more energy remaining I would have done the six bolts and happily so to do. I would still be puzzled that doing those bolts is necessary now. It weren't necessary on my 245 ...


P.P.S EDIT. Some members might want to consder fitting poly mountings. when they do the job. I have heard they are firmer so do not suit everyone but they might on the other hand give a desirable change in "engine response". I cannot vouch for Poly I haven't tried.






Sorry for the surreptitious joke ....



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[CosmicBike]

After driving for nearly a year with both mounts broken, I was suprised at how much vibration I have since fitting a pair of new, 'normal' rubber mounts. Poly would be worse, and I don't think my 27 year old, 180,000 mile old B200F is going to be pushing out enough horses or torques to worry the standard mounts!!