Want / Need gearbox fluid changed

[madspark01]

Hiya guys
I would like the gearbox fluid changed in my 2012 xc90 r design but the local specialist basically told me not interested / you don't change the fluids on these.
I am now trying to find someone if Fife Scotland to do this with access to vida so the flue level can be done at correct temp and counter reset as well.
I have a full service history with he car ( purchased in feb) but no record of gearbox fluid change any ideas of someone in the area that could help
cheers

[cheshired5]

Perhaps do a "Decent Volvo Specialist nr. Kirkcaldy?" thread in the general section for a wider audience not just XC90 owners.

I recently did a YouTube video showing the process on that box and it's definitely one of the simpler ones to change the fluid on.
It's a shame you're not closer.

[Tannaton]

You don't absolutely need VIDA, just be careful to replace the fluid with the same amount that you drain.

If you can change your own engine oil, you can change your gearbox juice via several sump dumps, it's no more difficult.

[reggit]

Yep, done a few changes on my V70 with nothing more technical than some cheap measuring jugs and the oil.
It’s got to be easier on the 90 as there’s more ground clearance.
You may need to buy the sump plug tool before you start, only a couple of quid. I overlooked that.
Didn’t reset anything with vida and all is well and I’ve got a really smooth gearbox at 170,000 miles.

[cheshired5]

The TCM counts the number of occasions that the fluid is subjected to hard load over time or the temperature exceeds a given threshold and once the count hits a certain point, it will trigger a fault code.

If the counter value relates wholly to the life of the fluid in the box this is fair enough but if the fluid has been replaced and the counter not reset, the TCM has no other way of knowing the age of the fluid so may trigger a code in error due to allocating historic harsh condition counts to fluid that hasn't been subjected to them.

If not resetting the counter was OK for you, great but given that counter resetting is the correct official procedure and takes minutes, telling someone unequivocally that it's unnecessary isn't the best advice.
We have literally no idea of how the car has been used previously, is intended to be used or the current state of the fluid and gear changes.

On the one I did recently, it was me who suggested the change.
The owner had no idea there was an issue until he experienced the difference afterwards.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

The TCM counts the number of occasions that the fluid is subjected to hard load over time or the temperature exceeds a given threshold and once the count hits a certain point, it will trigger a fault code.

If the counter value relates wholly to the life of the fluid in the box this is fair enough but if the fluid has been replaced and the counter not reset, the TCM has no other way of knowing the age of the fluid so may trigger a code in error due to allocating historic harsh condition counts to fluid that hasn't been subjected to them.

If not resetting the counter was OK for you, great but given that counter resetting is the correct official procedure and takes minutes, telling someone unequivocally that it's unnecessary isn't the best advice.
We have literally no idea of how the car has been used previously, is intended to be used or the current state of the fluid and gear changes.

On the one I did recently, it was me who suggested the change.
The owner had no idea there was an issue until he experienced the difference afterwards.

I watched your recent upload... great video! Thank you for taking the time to post these helpful videos on your channel.

May I ask, what do you find the easiest way is to ensure that the car is level if doing the job on a driveway (My drive isn't quite level, as there's a slight incline)? Would it be a case of driving/reversing two wheels onto ramps, then trying to get the car as level as possible by jacking the end that's on the ground upwards, then sliding axle stands underneath?

I noticed in your video that you used ramps & axle stands. However, are there any alternative ways that'll get the car just high enough to gain clearance to get underneath & undo the drain plug on the transmission/to set the level? I read somewhere that jacking each wheel up individually, then putting a few pieces of thick cut timber or breeze blocks underneath each tyre (so long as they're the same size) on a level surface may work (with the handbrake on & wheels chocked). Although, I'm well aware not to believe everything you read & I'm not convinced it would be the safest option either. Does the vehicle have to be spot on level, or as near as you can get it kind of thing?

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

Would it be a case of driving/reversing two wheels onto ramps, then trying to get the car as level as possible by jacking the end that's on the ground upwards, then sliding axle stands underneath?

My drive is level and the axle stands are ratcheted so it's just a case of getting the rear wheels on the ramps then a bit of trial and error at the front until level.
On a slope I would have the rear face back up the slope on axle stands or the rear wheels securely chocked at their front and the front wheels on ramps as mine have a built in chock but of course it depends on the steepness of the slope, texture of the surface etc. so only you can know what's safe for you.

You could jack up only the front to get the undershield off and for the repeated drains then put the car on the ground for fluid levelling as there might just be enough space to reach under for the level plug but you'd need a very shallow container to slide under and catch what comes out.

[BlueRubber]

I would 100% agree with what cheshired5, you really should update TCM via VIDA.

If you are going to be keeping the car for a while I would strongly recommend you buy VIDA, it's an extreamly versitile and useful tool for you car.
You can buy it online from ebay, aliexpress etc or you can also buy it directly from cheshired5.

[Tannaton]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

The TCM counts the number of occasions that the fluid is subjected to hard load over time or the temperature exceeds a given threshold and once the count hits a certain point, it will trigger a fault code.

If the counter value relates wholly to the life of the fluid in the box this is fair enough but if the fluid has been replaced and the counter not reset, the TCM has no other way of knowing the age of the fluid so may trigger a code in error due to allocating historic harsh condition counts to fluid that hasn't been subjected to them.

If not resetting the counter was OK for you, great but given that counter resetting is the correct official procedure and takes minutes, telling someone unequivocally that it's unnecessary isn't the best advice.
We have literally no idea of how the car has been used previously, is intended to be used or the current state of the fluid and gear changes.

Horses for courses... the main reason for requiring VIDA in this process is to read the gearbox fluid temperature, the Volvo process is the final level check and top up should only be performed within a specific temperature range. Resetting the oil degradation counter is like resetting the service reminder indicator when you change the engine oil. You would never advise someone to delay changing their old engine oil just because you didn't have access to VIDA to reset the SRI, same principle here but much, much less of a risk as the DTC is only likely to arise if the car is used in arduous circumstances and upon investigation it's likely to be cleared - i.e. not lead to a limp mode or expensive diagnosis. Hence I'm curious as to why you have taken this view? The counter does not change the behavior of the TCM or any other function on the car.

So I stand by my original advice to the OP. I never recommended that this step was circumvented, I said that having access to VIDA wan't absolutely necessary for the OP to do this procedure on his car.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Tannaton

the main reason for requiring VIDA in this process is to read the gearbox fluid temperature, the Volvo process is the final level check and top up should only be performed within a specific temperature range.

If you're following the correct procedure and using Vida to get the correct temperature, then you follow the correct procedure and reset the counter at the same and render everything else you've said as moot.

If an oil degradation counter would flag up a completely erroneous warning just because it hadn't been reset, yes I would advise someone to get the job done properly.
You say the counter doesn't affect the TCM or any other function, I say an erroneous Transmission Service Required message could be pretty alarming and would affect your use of the car until its been read and all for what? Not doing a 2 minute counter reset? No thanks.

It's not as if access to Vida is rare or that you need to own your own setup.
There's a ton of members who would happily do it and have done it for free. I've met probably 50 members now for a variety of reasons and by far the most common is a free hook up to Vida with no purchase or compensation whatsoever required.