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940 separate temperature gauge

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Old Oct 1st, 2020, 12:53   #21
GrahamWright
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Jim, there's an easier way - unplug the sensor and fit a small value resistor (50-100 ohms) in the contacts in the connector plug, switch the ignition on and observe the gauge. Depending on the resistor value, it should go to about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way up. If you're in doubt about which resistor to buy, PM me your address and i'll send you one.

That will test the gauge and the wiring, if it doesn't move then there's another fault which we can deal with after. If the gauge moves then it's either the sensor or the thermostat.
Naive question from one who has just joined the discussion. Where can I unplug the sensor? Mine is a 940 diesel. The gauge always reads straight up (even when cold).
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Old Oct 1st, 2020, 13:46   #22
Laird Scooby
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Naive question from one who has just joined the discussion. Where can I unplug the sensor? Mine is a 940 diesel. The gauge always reads straight up (even when cold).
What year is your diesel? I believe the later ones had a slightly different sensor and not sure if it moved or not so will have to check either way.
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Old Oct 1st, 2020, 13:50   #23
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What year is your diesel? I believe the later ones had a slightly different sensor and not sure if it moved or not so will have to check either way.
September '95.
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Old Oct 1st, 2020, 13:55   #24
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September '95.
That's a MY96 then or should be, i'll look later and let you know.
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Old Oct 1st, 2020, 19:29   #25
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Naive question from one who has just joined the discussion. Where can I unplug the sensor? Mine is a 940 diesel. The gauge always reads straight up (even when cold).
hi
on my 940 diesel 1995 auto ,i have used the 2 wires that go to the low washer bottle resoirvor . lucky i had a spare reservoir with the coolant float in the bottle so changed that and also had a spare sensor probe that pokes up into the reservoir its got 2 wires too i jointed them to the washer bottle wires and now when the coolant gets low in reservoir the low washer bottle comes on in the car
thats the best i can do but there are other options on here better than my fix but my fix defiantly works as ive tested it 3 times easy to drain our D24s with the drain off tap got a few other tips on this engine my email is jimliddy1@gmail.com
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Old Oct 1st, 2020, 19:41   #26
Laird Scooby
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That's a MY96 then or should be, i'll look later and let you know.
The wires you're looking for are Yellow/White and Yellow/Black, not sure where the temperature gauge sender is on the D24 but if you can find a 2-pole connector (probably) somewhere near the thermostat, chances are that will be it.
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Old Oct 1st, 2020, 20:07   #27
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hi dave
my fix has bypassed the sensor at the front of engine as im running now on the
washer bottle sensor if you get what i mean .
that tempreture gauge of mine stopped working years ago i changed the temperature gauge and the circuit board so it was too much for me the next thing was engine sensor but i could never know if it was broken or not i tried grounding it got a multi meter but no luck
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Old Oct 2nd, 2020, 10:53   #28
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The wires you're looking for are Yellow/White and Yellow/Black, not sure where the temperature gauge sender is on the D24 but if you can find a 2-pole connector (probably) somewhere near the thermostat, chances are that will be it.
Thanks. I'll have another ferret when it stops raining!

I am beginning to suspect the gauge though. It immediately jumps to 50% on switch on and never movers. The fuel contents gauge is acting strangely as well. May be dry joints?
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Old Oct 2nd, 2020, 11:07   #29
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Thanks. I'll have another ferret when it stops raining!

I am beginning to suspect the gauge though. It immediately jumps to 50% on switch on and never movers. The fuel contents gauge is acting strangely as well. May be dry joints?
Don't bother looking under the bonnet at this stage then. Look at your instrument cluster instead :

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=300846

While the cluster is out, clean the contacts in the mulitplugs that connect to it and using a small screwdriver or similar, "tease" the conacts out a bit on the multiplugs to give them their curve back. Also clean (with fine emery or similar) the contacts on the edge of the PCB on the back of the cluster.
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