seized injectors - Page 2

foeism · Sep 7th, 2020, 22:20

Sounds like an absolute nightmare!
Sorry I can’t help, but I hope you’re able to get them out!
So close, and good luck!

dingov70 · Sep 7th, 2020, 22:43

Evening , firstly wd40 is about as much use as rice paper trousers in a storm .

Pure acetone & synthetic ATF as a 50/50 mix will penetrate the black junk holding the injectors into the head . The acetone softens the junk & draws the ATF with it ( to act as a lubricant ) . You need to break the bond created by the black gunk , before trying to remove the injector .

Various firms sell engine specific reamers to clean the injector bore & seating face , it is pointless to half heartedly clean the bore & seat as you will only create a poor mating surface just begging to leak .

As for no grease on the injector , I strongly recommend Febi white ceramic grease THINLY applied to the injector body & injector to copper seal face . The grease reduces any possibility of electrolytic corrosion or bonding due to injection by products blowing past the injector seal

This is a very common issue with Mercedes CDi engines ( known as black death )

realslimshady · Sep 12th, 2020, 15:58

well I've had to admit defeat. Modified a wheel bearing impact socket to fit down over the injector body after removing the electrical bit (and the spring and other internal bits) which bore onto the fuel inlet to provide a turning input to break the stick.
With a FOUR FOOT bar on the socket I managed to get the injector (with a loud bang) to move a couple of degrees. I went back and forth a couple of times and the socket sheared.
Multiple weldings and reinforcing of the socket later, the (one) injector was moving, through about twenty degrees but still needing the long bar, but it is now so mullered that it's impossible to get the socket to bear on it. The slide hammer is still completely ineffective. If it was the last injector I might have persevered (though I don't know what the next move would be), but as there are another two just as seized, I have decided the only way now is to butcher the plastic rocker cover off around them and probably replace the whole cylinder head. (hence my separate thread about part numbers)

dingov70 · Sep 12th, 2020, 19:42

If you go down the remove cylinder head path , why not get a machine shop to machine the injectors from the head using carbide insert boring head . Injector internals are incredibly hard & a real bugger to machine , but it can work out cheaper than buying another cylinder head

Here's hoping & praying for you

bobcat267 · Sep 12th, 2020, 20:24

Hi mate, check out SiRobb's video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NL8JI10Du18

Also see my recent problem with fuel washed cylinders:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=309432

Good luck

realslimshady · Sep 13th, 2020, 09:20

Interesting your problem with losing compression-would never have thought that was possible.
Lots of people referring me to that video, unfortunately, mine are way more seized than those Sirobb is dealing with. He says very early on in the process something like 'you can see there's a little bit of movement'. Well. Refer to my above mention of a four foot bar and all my strength....There is absolutely NO give in these.
However.With the rocker cover removed (in a thousand pieces) I can now get our special tool onto the exposed injectors and am going to get back to work on them.
Maybe the cylinder head can still be saved.

realslimshady · Sep 13th, 2020, 13:27

I'm also thinking about putting the blowtorch on it, as there's no plastic to melt any more :-) Any thoughts on that?

realslimshady · Sep 15th, 2020, 18:42

No progress. Does anyone know if it's possible to hire one of the hydraulic removal tools?

oragex · Sep 15th, 2020, 20:38

This is merciless, but be sure to protect the engine cover so it doesn't crack, etc.
Also, it's good to go SLOWLY, to allow time for the sludge to break up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tcAHBhSx8o

Crash Bang · Sep 16th, 2020, 10:24

OP

Wont it be cheaper/quicker in the long run to get someone in to do it for you? There are specialists who will come out and do the removal - or so they say - on site. No idea about costs.

http://www.seized-injector.co.uk/ Oxfordshire based. I just googled that. There seem to be a few around.

It might save you a lot of agro.

Sep 7th, 2020, 22:20	#11
foeism Senior Member Last Online: Apr 14th, 2024 17:02 Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Caerphilly	Sounds like an absolute nightmare! Sorry I can’t help, but I hope you’re able to get them out! So close, and good luck! __________________ Mostly driving a Panama Yellow 2000 V40 2.0T Moved on - 2010 XC90 D5 se auto Vivian the 2001 Volvo s40 t4, engine B4204T5 -RIP

Sep 7th, 2020, 22:43	#12
dingov70 Master Member Last Online: Today 19:48 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Blackpool	Evening , firstly wd40 is about as much use as rice paper trousers in a storm . Pure acetone & synthetic ATF as a 50/50 mix will penetrate the black junk holding the injectors into the head . The acetone softens the junk & draws the ATF with it ( to act as a lubricant ) . You need to break the bond created by the black gunk , before trying to remove the injector . Various firms sell engine specific reamers to clean the injector bore & seating face , it is pointless to half heartedly clean the bore & seat as you will only create a poor mating surface just begging to leak . As for no grease on the injector , I strongly recommend Febi white ceramic grease THINLY applied to the injector body & injector to copper seal face . The grease reduces any possibility of electrolytic corrosion or bonding due to injection by products blowing past the injector seal This is a very common issue with Mercedes CDi engines ( known as black death ) __________________ To stupidity & beyond

Sep 12th, 2020, 19:42	#14
dingov70 Master Member Last Online: Today 19:48 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Blackpool	If you go down the remove cylinder head path , why not get a machine shop to machine the injectors from the head using carbide insert boring head . Injector internals are incredibly hard & a real bugger to machine , but it can work out cheaper than buying another cylinder head Here's hoping & praying for you __________________ To stupidity & beyond

Sep 15th, 2020, 20:38	#19
oragex Premier Member Last Online: Jul 26th, 2021 21:24 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Coldnada	This is merciless, but be sure to protect the engine cover so it doesn't crack, etc. Also, it's good to go SLOWLY, to allow time for the sludge to break up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tcAHBhSx8o __________________ Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ECTts0FSVSOT_c Last edited by oragex; Sep 15th, 2020 at 20:40.

Sep 12th, 2020, 15:58	#13
realslimshady Junior Member Last Online: Apr 6th, 2024 10:56 Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: Andover	well I've had to admit defeat. Modified a wheel bearing impact socket to fit down over the injector body after removing the electrical bit (and the spring and other internal bits) which bore onto the fuel inlet to provide a turning input to break the stick. With a FOUR FOOT bar on the socket I managed to get the injector (with a loud bang) to move a couple of degrees. I went back and forth a couple of times and the socket sheared. Multiple weldings and reinforcing of the socket later, the (one) injector was moving, through about twenty degrees but still needing the long bar, but it is now so mullered that it's impossible to get the socket to bear on it. The slide hammer is still completely ineffective. If it was the last injector I might have persevered (though I don't know what the next move would be), but as there are another two just as seized, I have decided the only way now is to butcher the plastic rocker cover off around them and probably replace the whole cylinder head. (hence my separate thread about part numbers)

Sep 12th, 2020, 20:24	#15
bobcat267 New Member Last Online: Aug 12th, 2022 19:07 Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: St Blazey	Hi mate, check out SiRobb's video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NL8JI10Du18 Also see my recent problem with fuel washed cylinders: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=309432 Good luck

Sep 13th, 2020, 09:20	#16
realslimshady Junior Member Last Online: Apr 6th, 2024 10:56 Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: Andover	Interesting your problem with losing compression-would never have thought that was possible. Lots of people referring me to that video, unfortunately, mine are way more seized than those Sirobb is dealing with. He says very early on in the process something like 'you can see there's a little bit of movement'. Well. Refer to my above mention of a four foot bar and all my strength....There is absolutely NO give in these. However.With the rocker cover removed (in a thousand pieces) I can now get our special tool onto the exposed injectors and am going to get back to work on them. Maybe the cylinder head can still be saved.

Sep 13th, 2020, 13:27	#17
realslimshady Junior Member Last Online: Apr 6th, 2024 10:56 Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: Andover	I'm also thinking about putting the blowtorch on it, as there's no plastic to melt any more :-) Any thoughts on that?

Sep 15th, 2020, 18:42	#18
realslimshady Junior Member Last Online: Apr 6th, 2024 10:56 Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: Andover	No progress. Does anyone know if it's possible to hire one of the hydraulic removal tools?

Sep 16th, 2020, 10:24	#20
Crash Bang Junior Member Last Online: Apr 16th, 2024 07:09 Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Gloucester	OP Wont it be cheaper/quicker in the long run to get someone in to do it for you? There are specialists who will come out and do the removal - or so they say - on site. No idea about costs. http://www.seized-injector.co.uk/ Oxfordshire based. I just googled that. There seem to be a few around. It might save you a lot of agro.

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