Gambling on a 6 speed 2006 v70 d5

[Millie20]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

Nice car.

Change the transmission fluid (drain & fill). Use the correct spec fluid specified by Volvo & nothing else.

I use silicone grease (its a clear gel) on the slider pins, to protect the rubber boots around them. Copper grease eats the rubber, so don't use that.

Cambelt has been done, aux belt looks in decent condition. I don't suppose you know whether the aux belt tensioner has been replaced? If that part fails, there won't be any tension on the aux belt & that can wrap into the timing belt = serious costly repairs.

Personally, I wouldn't take chances & replace the tensioner, for your own peace of mind. If you find some paperwork or a receipt of some sort, then leave it as is. If not, replace the part with a genuine Volvo one.

Thanks Kev.

Transmission fluid and silicone grease added to list.

Unfortunately no receipts at all. Had a look this afternoon, all I can say is the aux belt tensioner doesn't look brand new. I agree will add a genuine tensioner to the list as well.

Thanks for the pointers.

[Millie20]

Originally Posted by simonwedge

A few comments/observations:

The oil near the injectors may be the result of an injector leak but that usually shows itself as a hard sticky black residue rather than fresh oil. May just be the result of over enthusiastic filling. I'd clear it up and keep an eye on it.

I'd recommend only filling the oil level to 1/2 way on the dipstick in future, this is to allow for diesel making it's way into the sump after failed DPF regens. I think Volvo even put a sticker on some of the cars recommending this.

Use ceramic grease on the brake sliders.

The vacuum tubes fit onto a little nipple on top of the front and rear engine mounts. If you look down the gap in front of the engine you'll see the front mount quite clearly - it's shaped like a metal grapefruit. The rear one is harder to see. If you're changing these get a decent quality one. SiRobb has a video on Youtube about how to check and change these.

Change the fuel filter as well - it's under the car at the back (under the passenger door). Once you've changed it turn the ignition on without starting the car and leave it on for about 10 seconds. Do this 5 or 6 times before attempting to actually start the car and it primes the system with diesel.

Rear exhaust repair kits are here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-S60...oAAMXQvtZQ3yQe

Judging by the state of the oil on the district, I'm going to assume it's overspill. Will keep an eye.

Thanks for the tip on oil level. Coincidentally I came across the same advice on SiRobb's YouTube earlier.

Managed to change the fuel filter this evening. Great tip about priming it. Appreciated. The filter that came out was pretty black.

To all, a great little community here. I hope to be able to help others in the future.

[Symes]

One minor point re the vacuum pipe. As well as acting on the front and rear engine mounts there is also a connection to the EGR cooler bypass on the manual E4 engines.

The spot filter full message... You might be lucky and the DPF just needed a regen, but your low oil warning could be symptomatic of a bigger problem whereby oil is being blown into the exhaust system which then helps to clog the DPF,. It seems that in most cases the fix is new piston rings... I would keep a very close eye on the oil level, consumption can be as much as a little in 150 miles. If you do have this problem you might want to consider appealing to the dealer for a return or repair. Search for 'soot filter full' or D5 oil consumption and check out the diesel section of the forum.
Oh, and a bottle of DPF cleaner would probably be worth putting through.

When they are running well these motors are a joy to drive and can leave you with the impression that you've just nipped down the road instead of an x00 mile journey.

[Millie20]

Originally Posted by Symes

One minor point re the vacuum pipe. As well as acting on the front and rear engine mounts there is also a connection to the EGR cooler bypass on the manual E4 engines.

The spot filter full message... You might be lucky and the DPF just needed a regen, but your low oil warning could be symptomatic of a bigger problem whereby oil is being blown into the exhaust system which then helps to clog the DPF,. It seems that in most cases the fix is new piston rings... I would keep a very close eye on the oil level, consumption can be as much as a little in 150 miles. If you do have this problem you might want to consider appealing to the dealer for a return or repair. Search for 'soot filter full' or D5 oil consumption and check out the diesel section of the forum.
Oh, and a bottle of DPF cleaner would probably be worth putting through.

When they are running well these motors are a joy to drive and can leave you with the impression that you've just nipped down the road instead of an x00 mile journey.

Thanks for this. Appreciate the heads up.

Gave her an oil change last night in advance of a 150 mile run today. Will keep a close eye on the oil.

I've been mulling over whether to return the car. As I understand it there's a 14 day cooling off period, and as I mentioned in the first post I over paid to begin with. I believe the term is buyers remorse.

Have a great Saturday.

[eternal optimist]

14 day cooling off period?

[Millie20]

Originally Posted by eternal optimist

14 day cooling off period?

I certainly hope so. We did 140 mi today before we got a low oil warning. This after doing a change with 6l of fresh and a new filter.

The sad thing Is, I bloody love driving this car.

Any advice on how to approach the convo with the dodgy dealer?

For reference, he'd bought the car from auction from Marshall Motor Group. Has a lot of about 20 other used cars.

Gutted. The gamble looks to have gone horribly wrong

Sigh...

[eternal optimist]

You bought a 14 year old car with no/little history - as you said earlier, caveat emptor unless there’s something that’s materially different about the car to what you were told when you bought it.

Never heard of a cooling off period when you’ve bought a secondhand car.

[Millie20]

Originally Posted by eternal optimist

You bought a 14 year old car with no/little history - as you said earlier, caveat emptor unless there’s something that’s materially different about the car to what you were told when you bought it.

Never heard of a cooling off period when you’ve bought a secondhand car.

I was told that the dpf filter had needed regenerating, and potentially replacing. I wasn't told that the piston rings and pcv needed replacing and that the car would require £10 worth of oil for every 100 mi.

It's a long shot, but I'ma gone take it. (Read in southern American accent)

Will play to the fact that the dealer likely doesn't want or need bad reviews on his eBay or Google accounts. Also, he seemed like a reasonable guy.

All this said, I know I'm an idiot.

https://www.confused.com/buy-a-car/t...ing-a-used-car

[Millie20]

I just wanted to close the loop on this in case anyone comes across this thread in the future, or has similar issues.

I called my local independent Volvo specialist - DMW in S. London and told him the story, asking what it would cost to replace the piston rings. He immediately advised me to stay well clear and return the car. Said I could get a second hand engine from ebay, but advised against it. Needless to say, I'll be taking my new Volvo to them for any work. Nice guys.

Fortunately the original dealer appears to be one of the good guys, he immediately apologised and has accepted will accept the car back for a refund.

I'm now in the market again for a 7 seater v70 if anyone has one going or any leads.

[Symes]

Good to know there are some decent dealers out there, glad you have it sorted.

Hope your search for a replacement doesn't take long!