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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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V70 T5 buying advice.Views : 1708 Replies : 29Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 24th, 2020, 16:56 | #1 |
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V70 T5 buying advice.
Good evening.
Hopefully this weekend I'm looking at a V70 T5. I've never had a Volvo. Is there anything in particular I should be looking for? The car is being sold by a Volvo Specialist. Has anyone got any experience of LCD in Woking? Any Advice welcome. |
Sep 24th, 2020, 17:26 | #2 |
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auto or manual?
check the colour of power steering fluid - should be green not red. check oil cap pressure - put a glove over it and idle - glove should NOT inflate. if it is deduct a few hundred so you can replace the PCV system. check for oil leaks, suspension noises and wandering on the test drive if auto get it hot ie at least 15 minutes test drive and look out for slipping or banging between shifts. if so go with a low offer - you should be able to get it reliable with £100 of tranny fluid.
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2001 Volvo S60 T5 SE 2.3 Geartronic (Scrapped) 2007 Volvo S60 T5 SE 2.4 Geartronic (Sold) 2008 Volvo V70 D5 SE Sport Geartronic (Current) |
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Sep 24th, 2020, 18:01 | #3 |
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Thats great info. Thank you.
The cars an auto. It apparently has a FSH. I'll take a rubber glove with me if I remember. |
Sep 25th, 2020, 00:00 | #4 |
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The PCV system as already mentioned can be problematic. In severe cases this could cause a leak from the rear main seal on the crankshaft due to excessive pressure in the crankcase. Have a look under the car for any signs of fluid leaking around the bottom of the bellhousing.
Try to give it a decent run on motorway or dual carriageway to get the oil really hot. The oil pick up seals in the sump can harden with age and allow air to be drawn through. This results in low oil pressure at idle after a long run. Also pull the dipstick with the engine hot and look for tiny bubbles in the oil. Another thing to look out for is corrosion. Check carefully the front suspension turrets and the boot floor, particularly the section in front of the spare wheel well between the rear shock mounts and the side wells behind the rear wheels. Check all the toys work as electrical problems are not unknown on these. Also ensure all keys are present and working as they seem to be dealer only (and expensive) according to the auto locksmiths I've asked. Hope I haven't put you off as a good example is a great car. Cheers George Last edited by contrarian; Sep 25th, 2020 at 00:06. |
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Sep 25th, 2020, 00:19 | #5 |
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Hopefully if you buy it, you put some miles on it. 65k is crazy low.
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2001 Volvo S60 T5 SE 2.3 Geartronic (Scrapped) 2007 Volvo S60 T5 SE 2.4 Geartronic (Sold) 2008 Volvo V70 D5 SE Sport Geartronic (Current) |
Sep 25th, 2020, 00:58 | #6 |
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Half their reviews are from 'Local guides' which are paid reviews.
Otherwise, make sure to drive the car at least 10 minutes and feel if the transmissions is smooth to shift gears. As mentioned test the PCV, cover the oil filler with a piece of plastic, see if it gets sucked in with force at idle. The 2001-2002 had expensive transmission and throttle body problems https://www.google.com/search?client...6ec1edb3b0dd,1,,,
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Sep 25th, 2020, 08:07 | #7 |
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Once a gain thank you for all the information.
I'll be sure to take it for a decent run and check for corrosion. Hopefully its a well looked after 65k miles. I'll keep you updated with how I get on. |
Sep 25th, 2020, 08:15 | #8 |
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Given the low mileage and the price they're asking this really should be a minter. Make sure it's definitely a 2.4 (2401cc) rather than the older 2.3 (2319cc) as they've got engine displacement as 2.39 for some reason. if it really is a 2.4 it must be a very early one. Can't confirm without pics/reg number.
The 2.4 is the better engine with a bit more power and torque as standard. Apparently it's also more tuneable with well over 300hp attainable from a remap alone. |
Sep 25th, 2020, 09:36 | #9 |
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They were my thoughts. Its got to be pretty much immaculate and need no money throwing at it for the price they're asking.
I'm going with an open mind. They said it will come serviced and with a new cam belt if its due. Also a years warranty. Not sure how comprehensive these are, which is something I will have to discuss with them. |
Sep 26th, 2020, 18:02 | #10 |
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A quick update.
I viewed the car this afternoon. The car wasn't immaculate. But in the garages defence they had just got the car in and it hadn't been prepared. There were a few marks and a couple of dings. Which were to be expected. I had a test drive. The car started and immediately tried to stall it recovered and was hunting a little. There was a an engine management service required message. The engine light was on as was the (P) parking light even though the hand brake was off. It was a bit judder whilst driving on idle but seemed fine one going. It wasn't as quick as I was expecting. There was also a little vibration from somewhere. Then whilst stopped at a junction the car stalled. It didn't want to restart. I was just about to get out and call them to come and get me when I gave it one final try with a load of revs ant it started. Made it back to the garage. Unsurprisingly I decided the car wasn't for me. Despite their best effort to convince me it was only a MAF sensor or something simple. It was apparently my loss. So won't be going back there anytime soon. |
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