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Cambelt Failures

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Old Jan 21st, 2018, 19:59   #21
Bonefishblues
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jinxie View Post
IME camchains give you plenty of warning. Cambelts give you none.
Found a broken belt by the side of a local road only this afternoon, funnily enough.
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Old Jan 23rd, 2018, 08:54   #22
skyship007
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Originally Posted by Jinxie View Post
I'm totally unconvinced that changing the design from cam chains to cam belts was a good idea at all, the more I read about the subject!

Elsewhere on this site I read a report from someone who said that their clutch failing caused the air-con pump belt to fail which took out the cam belt and consequently the entire engine was scrap. How does this occur? I mean, why would the clutch failing result in the air-con belt breaking??

Since I'm about to change the cam belt on mine, I guess I should do the aux belt at the same time, plus both tensioners and the water pump I suppose. I'm hoping there's just two belts in total on this engine, but can anyone confirm that?

Thanks!
If something on the Aux belt system starts to fail it should be audible. For example a failing Aux tensioner makes a chirpy sound at warm idle, as does the alternator pulley clutch.
Alas a bad cam belt or cam belt tensioner does not make a sound before it fails.
The water pump might, although they tend to leak first.

Aux belt failures can result in cam belt failures if they happen at high power as the belts are just too close. One advantage of cam chains was that such failures did not happen and chains often made more noise before they failed.
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Old Feb 13th, 2018, 23:41   #23
The Landshark
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Not sure which engine you've got but my T4 has no casting and only one aux belt, mines the euro 4 185hp from '06
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Old Feb 20th, 2018, 19:59   #24
Jinxie
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Originally Posted by Scooser View Post
Presume one is the aux belt and the other is the aircon stretch belt, if it’s anything like my 2009 D5 engine.
That's what it turned out to be in the end. The Haynes manual is incorrect in a number of respects. There is an incomplete depiction of the belt routings for the 5 cylinder models. Yours and mine are not shown for some reason. Furthermore, when attempting to fit the new belt, the Haynes makes no mention of the necessity to draw the tensioner temperature setting lug across to the right in order to get sufficient slack to get the timing belt over the water pump sprocket. Though Cheshire5d's D5 is not the same as mine, he does cover this vital point in his video on timing belt changing, which I viewed right through for the first time after spending 6 fruitless hours trying to get the belt on a la Haynes. Cheshire5d's engine is different in other respects, too; he has more space to work in. The design of my variant seems to be laid out to make life as difficult as possible for anyone attempting belt replacement. In order to draw the tensioner across, I had to fasten a cable tie around it and pull the end of that with pliers because there was no room to get my hand in close enough to get a finger tip on it. What with one thing and another: nightmare!
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Old May 30th, 2018, 09:34   #25
minstrelblue
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just replaced the timing belt, tensioner and idler pulley + water pump on my 2009 xc90 with 91555 miles at 9 years of age, Mobile fitter £320. we checked the aux belt which was like new, no cracks or deterioration found, checked the alternator, steering pump and air con pulleys, no issues, wear or noises detected. as for the old timing belt and pulleys, they also were sound, no bearing noises or wear detected and the belt was in good condition with no signs of cracks or unusual wear. it appears that some timing belt failures are connected with worn idler/pulleys on the aux belt side but he told me you should get some indication of an impending failure by hearing sounds from the bearings if wearing out or worn.
he told me that the d5 engine is one of the best volvo ever made and with proper maintenance could last 200-300k miles.
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