B200FT Tuning advice.

[mario850]

I will give it a go and see. what have i got to lose really lmao.

I think some-one mentioned, is it possible to convert to a MAP sensor instead of the MAF???

[classicswede]

Originally Posted by Pete940

You're opening a can of worms there!

There seems to be no clear answer as to whether the engine will run perfectly with the amm there or not, for some people it seems to work, others not so much.

However if you want to try out the DV then you WILL need to try the amm in a post turbo position.

Might as well give it a shot and let us know how it goes!

It should not work as it can not measure pressure. Pre turbo it works as it is measureing all the air going into the engine at atmospheric pressure

[lee4391]

Originally Posted by mario850

Next question, MBC or Adjustable actuator???

I've used both to boost a 13c to 15psi and the actuator has worked best IMO. Probably has something to do with it being a lot newer and the spring pressure being higher. But the actuator resulted in less/next to no boost spikes where as the mbc would spike 1-2psi consistently.

I got a mamba actuator off eBay and it is a great bit of kit comes with a variation of springs and and adjustable arm. Well made too. It seems to build boost progressively rather than all at once with and mbc which I prefer.

[mario850]

Originally Posted by lee4391

I've used both to boost a 13c to 15psi and the actuator has worked best IMO. Probably has something to do with it being a lot newer and the spring pressure being higher. But the actuator resulted in less/next to no boost spikes where as the mbc would spike 1-2psi consistently.

I got a mamba actuator off eBay and it is a great bit of kit comes with a variation of springs and and adjustable arm. Well made too. It seems to build boost progressively rather than all at once with and mbc which I prefer.

That was the one i was looking at. I think i will go for one on when i get the bigger turbo in a few months.

What sort of boost can these engines handle????

[mario850]

Originally Posted by classicswede

It should not work as it can not measure pressure. Pre turbo it works as it is measureing all the air going into the engine at atmospheric pressure

Yeah i get what you mean now i think about it because post turbo the O2 is more dence meaning the MAF will be thinking its sucking in less air and ecu will turn the injectors down to compensate. Hmmmmm i will see what happens when i stick the DV on and if its too much of a pain i will have to look into getting it chipped so it knows what is happening or look into getting it converted to MAP.

[Cromlech]

It should work post turbo and still register the right amount of flow:


"If air density increases due to pressure increase or temperature drop, but the air volume remains constant, the denser air will remove more heat from the wire indicating a higher mass airflow. Unlike the vane meter's paddle sensing element, the hot wire responds directly to air density. This sensor's capabilities are well suited to support the gasoline combustion process which fundamentally responds to air mass, not air volume. (See stoichiometry.)"

Wiki article.

The maf/amm in our LH cars is a hot wire type.

[Cromlech]

The reason usually given for post turbo AMM/MAF being bad is the oily pressurized air wearing it out sooner, and cleaning being required.

[barkster1971]

Don't be adding stuff you don't need. To get more power- stage 0 tune first. Putting more power through will find weakneses. When did you last change the petrol filter under the car, new dizzy, When was the hg last done? still on the original one? Get the TLAO chips for both ecu and ezk. Then fit a boost gauge and mbc. Run the original turbo at 12psi. Then change the seals that will be leaking and clean out the pcv sytem. Remove the intercooler and clean all the crap out of it. Then fit a 16T and V cam or similar. Run the 16T at 15psi. Do the upgrades in that order. Oh and get the injectors proffesionally cleaned. New plugs and oil change too.

[mario850]

Originally Posted by barkster1971

Don't be adding stuff you don't need. To get more power- stage 0 tune first. Putting more power through will find weakneses. When did you last change the petrol filter under the car, new dizzy, When was the hg last done? still on the original one? Get the TLAO chips for both ecu and ezk. Then fit a boost gauge and mbc. Run the original turbo at 12psi. Then change the seals that will be leaking and clean out the pcv sytem. Remove the intercooler and clean all the crap out of it. Then fit a 16T and V cam or similar. Run the 16T at 15psi. Do the upgrades in that order. Oh and get the injectors proffesionally cleaned. New plugs and oil change too.

All new filters about 1000miles ago if that. i have checked and there is no signs of oil in the intake system, iy had a fully rebuilt engine 7yrs ago (30,000miles) so its a good base for a half decent build.

Although i am fitting an MBC and Gauge now i have NO intention of ramming the boost right up, i am fitting it because i want to be able to accurately keep an eye on the PSi its running at the mo and the MBC was only a couple of quid more and i will fit it all at the same time.

The DV is purely for the sound because my Chav side won this argument, it may not stay on for long but i have never owned a Turbo Petrol car that had one fitted and i am a massive child really lol. the only other turbo petrol cars i have had were an Uno Turbo which scared the hell out of me and i sold after a couple of weeks of ownership and a Subaru Legacy Gen1 turbo that was fitted with a fancy FMIC and HKS recuirc and was mapped to run them so i did want to mess it up as they are very very fussy engines.

[mario850]

Originally Posted by Cromlech

It should work post turbo and still register the right amount of flow:


"If air density increases due to pressure increase or temperature drop, but the air volume remains constant, the denser air will remove more heat from the wire indicating a higher mass airflow. Unlike the vane meter's paddle sensing element, the hot wire responds directly to air density. This sensor's capabilities are well suited to support the gasoline combustion process which fundamentally responds to air mass, not air volume. (See stoichiometry.)"

Wiki article.

The maf/amm in our LH cars is a hot wire type.

I will try it and let you know lol