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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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V40 T4 best oil?Views : 2767 Replies : 15Users Viewing This Thread : |
View Poll Results: Which 10w40 oil is most suitable? | |||
Mineral | 1 | 2.63% | |
Semi Synthetic | 9 | 23.68% | |
Fullt Synthetic | 28 | 73.68% | |
Voters: 38. You may not vote on this poll |
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Nov 29th, 2007, 16:58 | #1 |
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V40 T4 best oil?
I know it's been discussed here before, but I'll be giving my V40 T4 auto a service over the Christmas period. The service book has been stamped by Volvo dealer or independant (last one @ 99k, xmas service will be 110k).
As I don't know what oil it's had before, what will be the best to use? I'm wanting 10w40, but will mineral oil be sufficient? (They do say for turbo'd in the spec too!) or will it need semi or fully synthetic? Also, isn't there something where you can't mix types of oil? As in if it's been fed on mineral you can't go to synthetic, or vice versa? Nobody seems to have mentionned that in previous posts? Thanks in advance Dave |
Nov 29th, 2007, 20:27 | #2 |
Non-T4 T4s RULE!!!!
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A good quality mineral will be fine, but you will probably have to change it sooner than you would a synthetic. The best thing you can do is call Gavin Scott at Anglo-American and talk to him about your specific needs:
http://www.aaoil.co.uk/environment-Contact Chances are he will also have what you need and should you decide to try their stuff out, make sure you quote this referral from the VOC because I believe you will get on owners club discount.
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Nov 29th, 2007, 22:41 | #3 |
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you should not mix mineral and synth in the same engine, i.e. top up synth over mineral fill or vice versa etc...
However if you are flushing and draining the oil you can change from mineral to fully synth or vice versa should you want to. Fully synth will protect better for longer over a wider range of applicatins (thats why it costs more). However as Pyapp says it depends on your application. If you are running in temperate climate, allow the engine to warm and cool progressively and do not expose the engine to high load for long periods then a mineral will be sufficint to protcet your engine and ancilliaries. It will however need to be replaced more frequently as it breaks down more rapidly than synth. If you expect to do alot of high loads short runs, or extended high load high rpm runs then it would be wise to obtain the best performance oil you can, i.e. a synthetic. Again if you work the oil very hard it can be prudent to change it beteween recommeded sefvie intervals. If you want to strike a happy medium and use a car under typical conditions a semi synth is a good compromise. Always rememebr if an engine is going to fail no oil will prevent it, it may however delay it... Hope this helps. Also look up bob is the oil guy on the net, makes for good reading.... |
Nov 30th, 2007, 00:12 | #4 |
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if oil is the same API rating they should be compatible if it is synthetic or not although many say not to mix different brands for topping up as you don't get the full benefits of the additive package in it.
Synthetic, it depends what kind of synthetic you're talking about group III, IV or V. Synthetic base oils tend to be better at extremes like high heat or extreme cold, I would look for specs rather then specific base oil as group III's (hydrocracked mineral oil) are often branded as synthetic with good additive packages have been closing the gap to group IV/V and cheaper. The manual for mine is a '99 says ACEA A3 spec whatever you choose though but why not look at the great amount of 5w40's about or M1 0w40 is meant to be great oil. If you want to know how well the oil is performing get a used oil analysis done, blackstone and performanceoilsltd.co.uk do them. Last edited by milster; Nov 30th, 2007 at 00:15. |
Nov 30th, 2007, 09:17 | #5 |
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Many thanks for the replies! My dad works in the motor trade, so can get the oil discounted through him anyway! Will get a well speccd oil then I think and keep an eye! I do around 300+ miles per week (dependnig how much I need to go out for work) and a lot is town centre rush hour driving with some motorway in between!
All my cars work hard for a living (believe me - it will soon be getting loaded to the hilt again - bump stops here we come, lol!) but equally are generally over maintained! Dave |
Dec 8th, 2007, 17:37 | #6 |
Phoenix from the ashes
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the type of oil is irrespective, i agree with pyapp, you could well use a mineral oil....
it is all about how often you change the oil... there is no point paying £30 gallon for fully if you change it every 20k... use mineral (gtx) or semi every 5k... i wont get drawn into the usual oil argument, suffice to say i know what works for me.... cheers jod
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Dec 9th, 2007, 16:49 | #7 |
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I'll be changing the oil every 10k (which @ 300 miles pre week won't be that long between intervals time wise...).
Think I'll get a good quality mineral / semi synthetic oil then. Cheers... |
Dec 10th, 2007, 19:13 | #8 |
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Dec 11th, 2007, 12:24 | #9 |
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If 6k is max, why does the manual and Volvo recommend every 10k or 12 months?
It wouldn't be feasable me servicing every 5k miles (I like round numbers) as the car would be getting serviced at least 3 times per year!! 1-2 times per year is adequate in my opinion. I am not hard on machinery, and the engine isn't revving particularly being an auto so I would imagine 10k adequate? If the T4 needs servicing more regularly then there is a one for sale in the Tyne and Wear area - I will go back t o BM's... |
Dec 11th, 2007, 17:23 | #10 |
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The book for mine doesn't say which model it applies for just normal driving is 10k miles or once per year and unfavourable 5k miles or six months
Unfavourable are prolonged driving in dusty / sandy conditions prolonged driving with attached trailer / caravan prolonged driving in hilly terrain* prolonged driving at extremely high speeds* ( above 95 mph ) prolonged idling, stop start driving at low temperatures ( under 0 c ), driving mainly short distances ( less than 7 miles ) *Only use A3-96 oil A3-96 for petrol turbo engines |
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