Needing advice on oxygen sensor.

[minesa240x3]

And so, new lambda probe arrived yesterday,
Went hunting around the local breakers, no Volvo cars to be found?
So went to the car and had a look at things in more detail. The socket in the cars origjnal wiring loom hasn’t been cut and re joined as I thought. Strangely it may have been, but the crimp connectors only join the correct coloured wire going in and coming out.
Maybe it was in an attempt to switch wires previously?
Anyway the new sensor should just plug straight in.

Now the fun part, on looking at the colours of the wires from the cars loom going into the socket they are st odds with the colours on the sensor. Ok the sensor may just use different colouring , but black on Volvo is Earth, it would when plugged in switch to a white from the sensor? And the sensor does have a black wire, it’s more the order rather than colour alone.

I will try to post up many pictures, trying to put all this into some kind of readable format has so far eluded me.
The pictures show the old sensor connected.
The new one has colours in order as follows.

New sensor socket wiring.
1) Grey.
2) White.
3) Black.
4) Yellow.

Old sensor socket wiring.
1) Red.
2) White.
3) Black.
4) Yellow.

Cars original wiring into socket.
1) Green/ Orange.
2) Black.
3) Green/Grey.
4) Green/Black.

[minesa240x3]

Managed to only get one picture posted, I used to know how to reduce or minimise them, but using an iPad I haven’t a clue. Will try again.thanks,


No luck, file size to big arghh.
V366.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by minesa240x3

Thank you so much pinballdave that is exactly the info I needed, so many out there to chose, anecdotal proof is the only sure fire way of knowing.
I haven’t had any luck sourcing a genuine one.
You say you soldered one up before. As my car no longer has the socket because it was removed to fit an incorrect sensor I may need to try and work out the colour coding to pin position.
I have the manual and it does give wire colours and where each wire comes from, but knowing which wire on the new probe joins to will be difficult.
I have looked around local breakers for a same year car but none found yet.
Thank you though. I will get and order the one you suggest,,,, very grateful as I was getting no where.

You really need to get one from your volvo dealer ,I was plagued by people fitting non genuine ones in the 1990's they never seemed to match the engine management system , get a volvo one fit it and forget it for the next 20 years .. otherwise you are going to end up paying for a cheap sensor 2 or 3 times so it works out much more expensive over the years .

[Clan]

Originally Posted by pinballdave

If people were fitting non-genuine sensors in the 1990's, then doesn't that mean the original Volvo one must have lasted a lot less than 20 years. When did Volvo start fitting Lambda sensors to their cars? I don't recall the 1970's models having them.

Having said that, back then the choice for lambda sensors was either an eyewateringly expensive genuine manufacturers part all wired up for plug-and-play replacement, or a splice and solder 'universal' replacement. Given the difference in price when I replaced my first one in 2004 (£200+ Volvo -vs- £35 universal), I was quite happy that I got about 2/3 the life out of the cheap one!

Of course none of the parts suppliers had any clue about lambda sensors and I had to try several motor factors before I got one that knew that there was a difference between Zirconia and Titania (not being helped by Volvo fitting both types on engines of the same cylinder capacity, but differing arrangement of valves!). So I'm not surprised that there were problems with the wrong type being fitted, along with plenty of miswired 'universal' ones with bad solder joints.

I would have thought that the situation would be better today, and the motor factors would have learned from the lessons of the past, but this thread appears to be evidence that not much has changed.

I can also understand wanting to fit genuine parts when they take hours to replace or when the garage labour charge will be more significant than the (genuine Volvo) parts cost. But a Lambda sensor change is a ten minute job, so as long as you pick a decent quality OEM sensor (ie Bosch for Zirconia types or NTK for the Titania ones), then it doesn't really matter so much.

They were fitting non genuine sensors and throwing away perfectly good ones as they were guessing , not diagnosing the problem .. …

Volvo were the first manufacturer to pioneer the use of lambda sensors in 1976 , they did not use them in the UK until about 1986 which was way ahead of legislation .( like a lot of their innovations ! )

[minesa240x3]

First off a really big thank you for all the advice given.
I have learnt a great deal about sensors lately,
I am sure I also read Bosch use NGK made sensors for the Titania ones.
So basically the one I was advised to use is the correct unit.

So does anyone know how well v70 cars BURN!
Two actually. Because right now life is shall we say a “tad” difficult, so on top of that add not one but two cars that are beyond my ability to repair them.

I spoke to the mechanic, filled him in on what was what, how to distinguish between the wires, what each did, how the sensor worked in case he didn’t know, he wasn’t insulted by that, so booked in for Monday. Yay.

The car needing a new lambda sensor has now thrown up a new challenge! I reconnected the battery which needed charging up.
Now the hazard lights flash continuously,,not the hazard switch accidentally on! Oh no, just flashing constantly. I guess something to do with the alarm system?
It never had a fob and I have never bothered even trying the alarm.

Then as my other v70 which has mot only until this weekend has thrown up an engine management light I decide to plug in the bod code reader, yep !
Code 1= P0135 o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. Bank 1, Sensor 1.
Code 2= P0135 o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. Bank 1, sensor 1.
Code 3=P0505 idle control system malfunction.

Oh great another set of issues to chase, more expense. Only two sensors, might be the first one.
Bank 1 sensor 1.

I did check the various plugs on the fenix car and found one that was quite corroded, it was below the throttle body( cable system) and went into what looked like a throttle position switch,

So how much petrol is required to fully destroy two cars? Will they burn ok once lit?

I know these things can be fixed, the knowledge is here, the kindness is given by you.
I just can’t deal with it any longer.
I love my cars, have many,,, I enjoyed finding out all about each one and it’s eccentricities but sadly I struggle now.
Major rant done, feeling a bit rubbish, sorry.
Had to vent that’s all.
Hope a good nights sleep will help.

V=448

[Clan]

Originally Posted by minesa240x3

First off a really big thank you for all the advice given.
I have learnt a great deal about sensors lately,
I am sure I also read Bosch use NGK made sensors for the Titania ones.
So basically the one I was advised to use is the correct unit.

So does anyone know how well v70 cars BURN!
Two actually. Because right now life is shall we say a “tad” difficult, so on top of that add not one but two cars that are beyond my ability to repair them.

I spoke to the mechanic, filled him in on what was what, how to distinguish between the wires, what each did, how the sensor worked in case he didn’t know, he wasn’t insulted by that, so booked in for Monday. Yay.

The car needing a new lambda sensor has now thrown up a new challenge! I reconnected the battery which needed charging up.
Now the hazard lights flash continuously,,not the hazard switch accidentally on! Oh no, just flashing constantly. I guess something to do with the alarm system?
It never had a fob and I have never bothered even trying the alarm.

Then as my other v70 which has mot only until this weekend has thrown up an engine management light I decide to plug in the bod code reader, yep !
Code 1= P0135 o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. Bank 1, Sensor 1.
Code 2= P0135 o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. Bank 1, sensor 1.
Code 3=P0505 idle control system malfunction.

Oh great another set of issues to chase, more expense. Only two sensors, might be the first one.
Bank 1 sensor 1.

I did check the various plugs on the fenix car and found one that was quite corroded, it was below the throttle body( cable system) and went into what looked like a throttle position switch,

So how much petrol is required to fully destroy two cars? Will they burn ok once lit?

I know these things can be fixed, the knowledge is here, the kindness is given by you.
I just can’t deal with it any longer.
I love my cars, have many,,, I enjoyed finding out all about each one and it’s eccentricities but sadly I struggle now.
Major rant done, feeling a bit rubbish, sorry.
Had to vent that’s all.
Hope a good nights sleep will help.

V=448

You only have bank 1 on your car , yes the alarm defaults to ON when the battery goes flat or is disconnected for security .. you need to get the control unit out and if there are any dealers who still have the special tool to turn it off its the only way . If not send me a PM ..

[minesa240x3]

Evening clan and anyone taking a gander,
So took fuse 6 out, car seems to be working fine, no central locking but no hazards flashing either, will have to put up with having to put the fuse in when needing to unlock the tailgate.

I visited a breakers that had three v70 cars this Wednesday only one still there, sadly the one with fenix set up was crushed,,,, the one left was similar to my v reg 1999/2000, it is an s reg...so got a lot of bits that might need for mine,
Couldn’t find the alarm module under the drivers knee area? But couldn’t get under very well, cars to close either side, I had to go upside down in the cabin.

Also two very new looking hella headlights, air flow metre, throttle body, as many sensors as I could find. I could not get the ecu’s out, no lever there? Just sat there not lifting up,, just before I gave up I even tried levering one, I took the whole outer case off, so what holds them in,?

Car due in Monday to have lambda probe fitted, I did find a very corroded connector,,, think I said before, by the throttle body,,, similar to the old style idle control switches on the 940 cars,,, would that throw up faults or just interfere with supply etc?
Thanks so far, the burning has been postponed,,,,,for now.

V=480

[minesa240x3]

Update so far,
Not much to add, only the T reg with the fenix system fitted is being looked at by a garage where I work. I filled him in on wiring details thanks to this forum and brilliant members. Also added a few pointers regarding codes that can present as lambda probe but could be cam position sensor and I also checked and noticed the connector on the air flow temperature sensor on the left side of the air cleaner top, the one in the inlet feed tube has corroded contacts, could be failing to sense any input?

I don’t hold up to much hope but at least I am trying.
Update on my present driving car.
Have rang an independent Volvo dealer near me, they only work on and sell volvo’s. Asked if they could read the codes and pin point the faults, then I will ssk for prices to fix. MOT due this Saturday, at least they can read the codes properly and years of experience hopefully will help.

Also stripped lots and lots of parts from a breakers yard car, the parts should fit my current daily driver car, v reg 1999-2000.twenty valve non turbo B5244S engine, two lambda sensors,
Thanks .
V=542