Heat Exchanger replacement - Coolant in footwell

[Dmac78]

As the title suggests I opened my drivers door one morning to find it was saturated, and smelt of coolant. I had been topping up my coolant reservoir but couldnt locate any leaks by visually checking pipes, compressor etc.
After a bit of research on here I proceeded to replace the exchanger which I was confident it was leaking. I could see after removing the carpet from centre console drivers side.
I had bought vida from Cheshired5, very quick and professional approach thanks.
I am not a mechanic but I'll give most jobs a bash. I have a 2011 xc90 D5 and the process to access the heat exchanger is substantial. I also work on the street / drive and as such when I can get to work on the car is weather dependant, and second to work amd family commitments. I was told by volvo they would be looking at least 7hrs labour and parts would cost in region of £1500, maybe more.
I began stripping down and thought it might slide out passenger side once drained and disconnected to the 2 aluminium pipes. Not the case on RHD models.

Front shield guard removed
Coolant drained
Window wipers and gutter removed
Centre console removed
Steering wheel removed
Carpet from drivers footwell removed to dry
Speedo and drivers information display removed
Entire dashboard removed
Crossbeam / frame removed
A/C refridgerant removed (and stored, legal requirement)

With the above done I could move the A/C unit enough to withdraw the heat exchanger and install the new one. The process was was time consuming so make sure you have
Space to lay parts out
Time to tackle this project,
my start stop approach prolonged time to complete 6weeks, which made replacing every, bolt, nut etc back in the right place challenging. Glad to say its all done but I probably under estimated time required.
The nissen part I fitted was approx £45, kwik fit recharged aircon £45 coolant from volvo £28, distilled water approx £15

[Farmer Joe]

Wow, top marks for commitment! Apparently the heater core can be replaced by cutting the corner out of the cabin filter housing. This is the route I’ll be taking, I think. My heater has stopped heating.

[PsYcHe]

It's a bit more than just the corner you need to cut off. Did mine a couple of months ago. Cut off a bigger section than you think you'll need to save having to stick bits back together

[Danielpsmith]

I replaced mine last year and had to cut quite abit out, if you do it your self make sure you get new genuine o rings for the pipes.
I didn’t get new ones in the kit I bought (nissens) so used the old ones but they started weeping about a month later and had to change them, it sorted it but you don’t want to have to take them out again.

[Farmer Joe]

I’m perplexed as to why my heat has failed. I did flush the heater matrix and no real filth came out. I only get warm air at very low fan speeds. With the fan on high, it just goes cold quite quickly, and yet both the feed and return pipes on the firewall stay very hot.

[SwissXC90]

Sounds like the flaps are not moving correctly

[PsYcHe]

I had the same.. New matrix and toasty

[gmonag]

Originally Posted by Farmer Joe

I’m perplexed as to why my heat has failed. I did flush the heater matrix and no real filth came out. I only get warm air at very low fan speeds. With the fan on high, it just goes cold quite quickly, and yet both the feed and return pipes on the firewall stay very hot.

This sounds off the wall but...

If the AQS (Air quality sensor) has failed, it can upset the LIN bus which is used to control cabin temperature. Check the DTCs or disconnect the AQS and see if it works.
AQS is in the cabin air intake, under the windscreen scuttle, on the LH side