Front strut mounts and bearings.

Steve940estate · Aug 26th, 2011, 21:20

I will be taking these apart over the weekend when I fit my new shocks. I have a small amunt of vertical movement in either the mount or bearing and was wondering which bit it is that wears. The top nut is tight enough so is it the actual bearing that wears or something else.

I enquired about the price of the mounts and they won't be much short of £100 each from Volvo . If it's these that wear I need to either swap them for some better ones of devise a method of fixing them.

I'm hoping to come up with some sort of plan as I can't really spend out much more on the car at the moment and don't want to have to strip it all down again.

Can anyone offer some advice, I can make up spacers if needed as I have a small lathe, might be something I can offer to others if anythings possible.

RAW · Aug 26th, 2011, 21:30

having changed two front shocks last week, i'm pretty sure that there could only be movement from the bearing at the top of the strut. the bottom ball joint is an easy job if there is movement at the bottom of the strut, especially when the strut is out for the shock inserts to be done. other than that i'm pretty sure that there are no components that could cause vertical movement in the strut unless there are bolts/nuts loose.

hope this helps. someone correct me if i have missed somewhere else that there could be movement.

Richard

Steve940estate · Aug 26th, 2011, 23:23

Thanks for the reply. I've been looking at a few diagrams and still aren't too sure. It's only a milimeter or 2 at the most.
I can see that all of the top mount components fit on the shock pin, which is a set length. I guess that is all the part wear very slightly and the rubber on the mount and the rubber bit that goes under the nut then there will be some free play. I'm hoping a suitable thickness washer or similar will be enough to remove the play.

Thats all very well as long as the bearing itself isn't damaged. I think I will just have to take it apart and see.

I bought 2 new lower ball joints from Volvo earlier whichs is why I don't have any more money to spend at the moment !

RAW · Aug 27th, 2011, 08:43

aah, ok, we had one new top mount bearing fitted a few years back, and it came with all of the rubber bits at the top of the strut. the bearings come apart easy enough, so you should be able to look and see. i think you may be able to replace the ball bearings yourself rather than buying a new unit if you can get hold of the right size balls.

Good Luck

Steve940estate · Aug 29th, 2011, 00:20

I've been messing about trying to find a way to tighten up the top mount bush and come up with this, not sure how sucsessful it will be yet though.

I put the modified bits together on a used shock and there is still a bit of a knocking feeling. It might be just that the shock itself is worn but when you go from down to up there is a small about of movement that isn't damped. Now I have made a few parts and a spanner to undo the strut gland nut I will take one of the struts off my car and see just how bad the shocks are.

Below are a few pictures that hopefully explain what I am going to try. I've turned the outside of the top bush down a bit so I cold hold it properly to bore the hole in the center out. This is a test one so it all looks a bit rough. I've done 2 more to fit to the car that have had a coat of paint so it had better work.

This picture shows the assembly before I opened the hole out. There is a bit of a gap between the top bush and the mount.

This shows the gap closed up after opening the hole out. You get about one turn extra on the nut.

The top of the strut mount. This isn't a very good one as there are some cracks in the rubber.

The opened out top bush.

Thick washer.

Underside of top bush.

Layout of parts in fitting order.

I haven't got any new parts but it would be interesting to see how it all fits together. The only problem might be that I have ended up making the mount too stiff. I will try one on the car tomorrow to see if it makes any difference.

Steve940estate · Aug 29th, 2011, 21:48

I finally after all the faffing about fitted the new shocks today. One of the old shocks was leaking slightly and the other was just worn out. While it was apart I did the camber mod as I'm fed up with the tyres wearing. Also fitted a pair of new lower ball joints.

I decided to fit my modified top bushes although most of the knocking feeling was coming from the shocks. With all the rubber clamped up it takes a little bit of movement out of the top mount, which can only help.

I need to check the tracking but the car is loads better to drive now. The steering feels heavier and there is a more definate center position to it. Not sure if it's just the extra camber thats helping or a combination of all the new bits but it's a lot better.

Here's a picture of the painted top bush fitted, a bit dark but you can see how there is less of a gap now.

Steve940estate · Sep 1st, 2011, 16:38

Does anyone have any comments to add about this ?

I was wondering if anyone has used any of the aftermarket strut tops and found some good ones. Looking on ebay they range from about £25 to £75, the expensive ones are getting close to the price of genuine ones.

I've posted a thread about this on Turbobricks and someone suggested that polyurethane ones would be a nice idea. Thinking about this I don't see why not. The actual bush on the strut mount only locates the shock absorber. The weight of the car rests on the metal plate. One thing to consider is locating the bearing though as this pushes onto a rubber section on the underside of the mount.

My idea is to have a top mount that is adjustable for camber with poly bushes. I wonder if the saucer bushes used on the lower suspension arms could be used, or something similar perhaps. It would be something between a standard top mount and an adjustable one with a spherical bearing.

Just a thought at the moment.

RAW · Sep 3rd, 2011, 14:15

sorry to sound stupid, but how does the camber mod work?

Steve940estate · Sep 3rd, 2011, 22:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by RAW

sorry to sound stupid, but how does the camber mod work?

Not at all, I didn't explain here. I have started a new thread that gives some detail and there is also some info in the Springs and shocks thread. It's basically a Volvo bodge which involves re-drilling one of the top mount stud holes to let the strut move.

ie940 · Feb 18th, 2016, 08:53

Donning my flame suit for bumping an old thread, but this is the exact problem I have which seems to result in a knock from the topmount.

Did this solution work long-term Steve?

Aug 26th, 2011, 21:20	#1
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Mar 4th, 2024 23:50 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	Front strut mounts and bearings. I will be taking these apart over the weekend when I fit my new shocks. I have a small amunt of vertical movement in either the mount or bearing and was wondering which bit it is that wears. The top nut is tight enough so is it the actual bearing that wears or something else. I enquired about the price of the mounts and they won't be much short of £100 each from Volvo . If it's these that wear I need to either swap them for some better ones of devise a method of fixing them. I'm hoping to come up with some sort of plan as I can't really spend out much more on the car at the moment and don't want to have to strip it all down again. Can anyone offer some advice, I can make up spacers if needed as I have a small lathe, might be something I can offer to others if anythings possible.

Aug 26th, 2011, 21:30	#2
RAW VOC Member Last Online: Feb 11th, 2024 10:42 Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nottingham	having changed two front shocks last week, i'm pretty sure that there could only be movement from the bearing at the top of the strut. the bottom ball joint is an easy job if there is movement at the bottom of the strut, especially when the strut is out for the shock inserts to be done. other than that i'm pretty sure that there are no components that could cause vertical movement in the strut unless there are bolts/nuts loose. hope this helps. someone correct me if i have missed somewhere else that there could be movement. Richard

Aug 26th, 2011, 23:23	#3
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Mar 4th, 2024 23:50 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	Thanks for the reply. I've been looking at a few diagrams and still aren't too sure. It's only a milimeter or 2 at the most. I can see that all of the top mount components fit on the shock pin, which is a set length. I guess that is all the part wear very slightly and the rubber on the mount and the rubber bit that goes under the nut then there will be some free play. I'm hoping a suitable thickness washer or similar will be enough to remove the play. Thats all very well as long as the bearing itself isn't damaged. I think I will just have to take it apart and see. I bought 2 new lower ball joints from Volvo earlier whichs is why I don't have any more money to spend at the moment !

Aug 27th, 2011, 08:43	#4
RAW VOC Member Last Online: Feb 11th, 2024 10:42 Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nottingham	aah, ok, we had one new top mount bearing fitted a few years back, and it came with all of the rubber bits at the top of the strut. the bearings come apart easy enough, so you should be able to look and see. i think you may be able to replace the ball bearings yourself rather than buying a new unit if you can get hold of the right size balls. Good Luck

Aug 29th, 2011, 00:20	#5
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Mar 4th, 2024 23:50 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	I've been messing about trying to find a way to tighten up the top mount bush and come up with this, not sure how sucsessful it will be yet though. I put the modified bits together on a used shock and there is still a bit of a knocking feeling. It might be just that the shock itself is worn but when you go from down to up there is a small about of movement that isn't damped. Now I have made a few parts and a spanner to undo the strut gland nut I will take one of the struts off my car and see just how bad the shocks are. Below are a few pictures that hopefully explain what I am going to try. I've turned the outside of the top bush down a bit so I cold hold it properly to bore the hole in the center out. This is a test one so it all looks a bit rough. I've done 2 more to fit to the car that have had a coat of paint so it had better work. This picture shows the assembly before I opened the hole out. There is a bit of a gap between the top bush and the mount. This shows the gap closed up after opening the hole out. You get about one turn extra on the nut. The top of the strut mount. This isn't a very good one as there are some cracks in the rubber. The opened out top bush. Thick washer. Underside of top bush. Layout of parts in fitting order. I haven't got any new parts but it would be interesting to see how it all fits together. The only problem might be that I have ended up making the mount too stiff. I will try one on the car tomorrow to see if it makes any difference.

Aug 29th, 2011, 21:48	#6
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Mar 4th, 2024 23:50 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	I finally after all the faffing about fitted the new shocks today. One of the old shocks was leaking slightly and the other was just worn out. While it was apart I did the camber mod as I'm fed up with the tyres wearing. Also fitted a pair of new lower ball joints. I decided to fit my modified top bushes although most of the knocking feeling was coming from the shocks. With all the rubber clamped up it takes a little bit of movement out of the top mount, which can only help. I need to check the tracking but the car is loads better to drive now. The steering feels heavier and there is a more definate center position to it. Not sure if it's just the extra camber thats helping or a combination of all the new bits but it's a lot better. Here's a picture of the painted top bush fitted, a bit dark but you can see how there is less of a gap now.

Sep 1st, 2011, 16:38	#7
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Mar 4th, 2024 23:50 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	Does anyone have any comments to add about this ? I was wondering if anyone has used any of the aftermarket strut tops and found some good ones. Looking on ebay they range from about £25 to £75, the expensive ones are getting close to the price of genuine ones. I've posted a thread about this on Turbobricks and someone suggested that polyurethane ones would be a nice idea. Thinking about this I don't see why not. The actual bush on the strut mount only locates the shock absorber. The weight of the car rests on the metal plate. One thing to consider is locating the bearing though as this pushes onto a rubber section on the underside of the mount. My idea is to have a top mount that is adjustable for camber with poly bushes. I wonder if the saucer bushes used on the lower suspension arms could be used, or something similar perhaps. It would be something between a standard top mount and an adjustable one with a spherical bearing. Just a thought at the moment.

Sep 3rd, 2011, 14:15	#8
RAW VOC Member Last Online: Feb 11th, 2024 10:42 Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nottingham	sorry to sound stupid, but how does the camber mod work?

Feb 18th, 2016, 08:53	#10
ie940 Senior Member Last Online: May 13th, 2024 10:57 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: East Mids	Donning my flame suit for bumping an old thread, but this is the exact problem I have which seems to result in a knock from the topmount. Did this solution work long-term Steve?

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