What I did today thread...

[Georgeandkira]

Here are my part number notes regarding the IAQS sensor.
I believe VAG cars used the same sensor. I believe odd items like these and yaw sensors have been shared among the various makers due to overall low part demand.

IAQS sensor (VAG part # 1K0907659) for pre-facelift cars.

p/n 08665059 is off a pre-facelift Volvo sensor.

p/n 31369324 (FCP no gots-try Tascaparts) is said to be for facelift cars (via board member)

p/n 8674719 (taken off a Behr replacement pre-facelift)

No guarantee of accuracy is made. These are notes taken from various sources.

[oragex]

Did a short video about the heated side mirrors option https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ylutjaiMOo

[oragex]

Two small videos on how to test the cambelt tensioner setting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afcUC07LPnI and where to find important information for your specific car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhXR8HDAXX8

[davebb]

Thanks they are really good,
What no icecream,
Dave

[oragex]

having a break from cholesterol naah, not for long

[oragex]

Did a rather long (into detail) video on steering wheel removal, also with clockspring (steering angle sensor) adjustment and details https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idmPhHNNixI

[ASt85]

Was going to have the tank connector replaced by a highly trustworthy local mechanic of repute.....he looked through the instructions, apprised the condition of the tank & connector and then phoned me to tell me that it would in all probability take him a day or so....in his opinion more much expensive than losing around 500ml of petrol on each full refuel...ie was it worth doing on a 17 year old V70?

He replaced the highly corroded fuel filter with the genuine OEM one which I had supplied, and whilst he insisted upon no labour charge, proffering many apologies ......he finally accepted a couple of pints in the wood at his local.

OK not quite the outcome I had wanted, but so impressed by his honesty and integrity - Thanks "Kev".

[Georgeandkira]

Fire hazard?

Is this the filler neck connector?

[Longhouse21]

Originally Posted by ASt85

Was going to have the tank connector replaced....in his opinion more much expensive than losing around 500ml of petrol on each full refuel...ie was it worth doing on a 17 year old V70?

If you want it to pass the next MOT, then the answer has to be an unfortunate yes...

Extract from the MOT test manual:

6.1.3 Fuel system

You must check the fuel system on all vehicles with internal combustion engines and hydrogen fuel cells.

You might need to open the luggage compartment to carry out a full inspection of the fuel system.

If a fuel tank has a hole or the filler neck is split and fuel can leak from it, you must fail it for leaking even if the hole or split is above the fuel line.

If you can't get access to the fuel filler cap, see item 4g in the 'Introduction'.

To check for leaks on gas powered vehicles, use a leak detection product conforming to the standard BS EN 14291-2004. You must follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using leak detection products.

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by Georgeandkira

Fire hazard?

Is this the filler neck connector?

Hi Georgeandkira,

It is the one which connects the filler tube to the tank; Kevin has given it a mighty shove and it no longer leaks as much when filling the tank - it has progressively been leaking more and more over the last few months on refill, that said until fairly recently it was minimal ie vapour rather than liquid fuel........on the way home with the gauge showing well into half the red zone but no fuel warning light, I put in 61 litres of petrol (approx 16 US gallons) to brim the tank and had minimal loss maybe less than a cup of petrol/gasoline on the ground - agreed there is a fire hazard on filling of which I am very wary - hence the extinguisher in the left load space well!

However, I normally only refuel from our local petrol/gas station (Morrison's previously known as Safeway) which is literally less than 300 yards from home - so the exhaust/cat is not very hot when re-filling. |That said, as you, I'd much rather fix the issue but as the mechanic said "is it worth spending over £600 (approx $750) to fix a 17 year old car which will have other issues over the year prior to its MOT/Cert of Road worthiness?

If I had the time I'd probably go down the home fix/repair route, but given my mounting years, I'd rather pay a good mechanic to do the job instead of trying to wrestle the tank et al...that said the local Volvo dealer charges around £125 per hour plus VAT ie $160 + VAT @ 20% per hour ie $199/hour.

It may be broken but the car still functions - the fire hazard is minimal............but there again as a youth working at sea I was taught how to put out oil/petrol fires using only a water snuffing/rolling barrage:-)