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Auto Gearbox Noise.. Quick Answer Thread

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Old Aug 18th, 2011, 00:16   #1
The Hooded Claw
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Default Auto Gearbox Noise.. Quick Answer Thread

Ok... Just recently I have noticed there is alot of "I have a Gearbox Noise" Threads so I thought I'd Post this up to help Forum Members out in their Questions..

The Most Common type of Gearbox in Volvo's is the ASW 55-50 SN so we'll assume we're "Working" on that.....

Noises from Gearboxes can come in many many forms but most can be "Solved" (Or at least "Lessened") by changing/Flushing out the old gear oil ect

WHEN DO I FLUSH IT

If the fluid smells of "burnt toast" consider changing it if the colour is more "brown" or "black" than a cherry aid "red" consider changing,

If you do a lot of towing , city driving in heavy traffic, then consider checking the oil smell/colour at about the 50k miles mark, and then every 20k after, and when its looking "brown" more than red, start saving up to change it "sooner" Rather than LATER



HOW DO I FLUSH IT

Auto Boxes come in two "Bits" the Box itself & the Torque Converter each "Bit" is filled with oil but only the Box Itself can can be "Flushed" the torque Converter CANNOT (it has NO DRAIN POINT) the Box contains 3.6 Litres of Oil & the Torque Converter contains 3.8 Litres of Oil

A. Get under the car & locate the Gearbox Drain Plug undo this & allow the old Oil to Drain into a suitable container.

B. Refit the Drain Plug & fill up with Gear Oil NOTE IT MUST BE JWS 3309 SPEC This IS available from Local "Car Shops" but you MUST READ THE SMALL PRINT to ensure you have the correct oil

C. Top up to the Correct Level & Drive the car for Approx 2 Days (As Normal)

D. Repeat steps A & B After driving

E. You MUST repeat steps A & B at least 4 to 5 times to ensure you have completely "Changed the Oil" in BOTH the Box & the Torque Converter.

OVERVIEW

When changing the Oil in the Gearbox the new Oil mixes with the Old Oil in the Torque Converter thats why its necessary to change it Several times As said above its approx a 50 / 50 split between the two & just draining the 3.6 Litres out of the box will NOT be sufficient to effect any change in the Gearboxes operation.

If your Working to a Budget then set aside approx 150 to 200 to do the job properly The Oil is About 6 to 9 per litre & you'll need 16 litres MINIMUM to do the change.

It should be noted however that not all "Gearbox" Clunks & Noises are actually Gearbox related some are far from that E.G. worn or damaged Engine Mountings can cause "Clunks" when driving off from Traffic Lights things like this MUST BE CHECKED & Eliminated before going down the Gearbox Oil Change route.

Another common mis conception is Gearboxes are "Sealed for Life" .. They are not the AWS 55-50 SN box is NOT unique to Volvos they are fitted into many other cars & use Different Identifier Codes

2006– Pontiac Torrent (GM code M09 (FWD), M45 (AWD))
2004– Chevrolet Equinox (GM code M09 (FWD), M45 (AWD))
2004 Saturn Ion (GM code M43)
2003–2005(?) Volvo XC90 2.5T engine only
2002–2008 Lancia Thesis
2002–2005 Opel Vectra C and Opel Signum
2002–2003 Saturn Vue V6
2003-2007 Saab 9-3 (GM code M09)
2004-2006 Nissan Maxima, Nissan Quest, Nissan Altima under Nissan part number RE5F22A, built by Aisin
2001-2007 Renault Laguna V6 and 2.2dci (code SU1)
2001-2005(?) Volvo S60
2004 Volvo S80 (2.5T)
2006– Volvo C30, S40, V50 (T5)
1997-2002 Volvo C70 (Phase 1)
1999- Volvo S/V/C 70

Volvo owners manuals list the transmission as fill for life, meaning that there are no scheduled transmission fluid changes under normal operating conditions. This is controversial and believed by some to be a major contributing factor to increased valve body wear, eventually causing transmission problems that require valve body repair or replacement, and possible transmission overhaul or replacement.

Every Auto Tranny Mech I've ever spoken to recommend regular fluid changes, at least every 50,000 miles. JWS 3309 must be used. If incorrect fluid is used it will result in "improper operation" and eventual Box failure.
Lets look at it this way a AW55-50SN Box is EXACTLY THE SAME as a RENAULT LAGUNA SU1 002 Box (its made in the same factory & Probs on the same Machine) yer read a Volvo Manual & its "SEALED FER LIFE" & then yer read a RENAULT MANUAL & its "Change Oil Every 50,000 Miles !!!"

Rather Confusing isn't it ???

As you can see the "oh I'll Change the Tranny Oil on Sat" thought is NOT AN OPTION & BEFORE you go down THAT route check your .....

Engine Mountings
Drive Shaft Bearing (both Inner & Outer)
CV Joints
Wheel Bearings
Brake pads (fer "Binding")
Tyres (for Uneven Wear & Road Noise)
Brake Backplates (for "Catching" on the Wheel Hubs)

ALL can & DO make "ODD" noises from Time to Time If you've tried everything else & your left with a Gearbox Oil Flush/Change then I hope this has been a useful read.


& My Thanks to Andy D for his help & his "Proof Reading" Skills

Keith
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Last edited by The Hooded Claw; Aug 18th, 2011 at 00:59.
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Old Aug 18th, 2011, 01:07   #2
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Many thanks keith
taking the "black magic voodoooo" out of autoboxes is needed, and you've done that nicely with the above.
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Old Aug 18th, 2011, 09:11   #3
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Gold dust. Many thanks for this informative post!
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Old Aug 18th, 2011, 12:26   #4
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I missed out the Obvious in the above post ....

HOW TO CHECK YOUR GEARBOX OIL LEVEL

Gearbox Oil Level MUST be checked when the Engine is HOT using the following procedure..

A. Start Engine & run up to Normal Operating Temperature.

B. "Cycle" gear lever thru EVERY GEAR TWICE (Move Gear shift from P to R to N to D To 1 To 2 To 3 to L)

C. Check Dipstick for level (there are 2 Marks "HOT & COLD") make sure it on the "HOT" Mark.

D. Dipsticks Come in two varieties Long & Short & are situated by the Front Left of the Radiator (Just by/Under the Battery Shelf)

NEW CAR TO YOU ?????

If you have just bought the car & do not know its History ect there is an advantage in taking it for a Short Drive BEFORE checking the Gearbox Oil Level, The Torque Converter only "Works" when the vehicle is Moving & a "Good" Oil level showing in the Box does NOT necessarily mean the Torque Converter is Full of Oil.... Take the car for a 2 to 3 Miles run at normal speeds/driving ect on stopping IMMEDIATELY Check the Oil with the Dipstick it should be at the "HOT" level.

I personally have checked the Oil in my Sons Laguna & it was Correct but he was STILL experiencing poor Gear Shifting & "Clunking" .... On Investigation I found the previous owner had had the Gearbox Repaired & the "Mechanic" had refilled the Box to the Correct level but HAD NOT allowed for the Oil within the Torque Converter Hence we had a situation where the Box (At Ticking over/Standstill) APPEARED full but when Driving ALL this Oil was shunted into to T/C leaving the gearbox EMPTY & causing the Poor Gear shifting & "Clunkyness"

The ONLY way to confirm BOTH the Box & the T/C is at the correct level is to Dip the Box IMMEDIATELY after a "Drive" (at this point Oil pushed into the Torque Converter has NOT had time to drain back into the Gearbox)

NOTE*** The above is only applicable if you have just bought the vehicle & your "unsure" of the Gearboxes operation.

You only need to carry out the Above ONCE & having confirmed that BOTH parts of the box are at the Correct level you can use the "Checking Guide" above to ensure it stays at the Correct Level.


Keith

NOTE******

Mr MODS (James / Des) .. Can you please "Merge" these two post of mine, I ran out of time on the "EDIT" Button & this bit is "BASIC" to the advise in Post No1.

Cheers

Keith
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Last edited by The Hooded Claw; Aug 18th, 2011 at 12:31.
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Old Aug 18th, 2011, 12:46   #5
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Admin - all,

Can we get this put as a Sticky please??

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Old Aug 18th, 2011, 14:27   #6
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Sory to contradict you but it IS possible to drain and completly change the oil in the auto trany.
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...onAutoAW30.htm
This applies to other auto trans also. I've done it myself on a 940 & 960. Well worth the effort. I was told my converter was shot at 113,000 miles. Changed the oil and it's still going strong at 150,000.
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Old Aug 18th, 2011, 14:37   #7
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Originally Posted by arcturus View Post
Sory to contradict you but it IS possible to drain and completly change the oil in the auto trany.
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...onAutoAW30.htm
This applies to other auto trans also. I've done it myself on a 940 & 960. Well worth the effort. I was told my converter was shot at 113,000 miles. Changed the oil and it's still going strong at 150,000.
I do not doubt it IS possible mate .. but as I put in the No1 Post "we're assuming its the AW 55-50SN box here" NOT the AW 30-40 Transmission in the 940 960 Ect

But Thank you for your Input much appreciated.

Keith
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Old Aug 18th, 2011, 15:17   #8
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So (according to the list) a Phase I '99MY V70 could have a ASW55-50 box..?...I was under the impression (wrongly obviously) that the 50 box wasn't introduced until a little later..ie Phase II. (or maybe VERY late Phase I).?
My Classic '99MY V70 has the 42 box.
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Old Aug 18th, 2011, 15:22   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUTV70 View Post
So (according to the list) a Phase I '99MY V70 could have a ASW55-50 box..?...I was under the impression (wrongly obviously) that the 50 box wasn't introduced until a little later..ie Phase II. (or maybe VERY late Phase I).?
My Classic '99MY V70 has the 42 box.
Ya learn summat everyday.!

Neil
Oooooo!!!! VERY VERY GREY AREA is that Neil ... Some DID, some DIDN'T My C70 Has one & thats a 2000 T5 (based on the 850) so some VERY LATE Phase 1's DO have em..... I suppose its a matter of WHERE they were on the Production line when they were built.

Keith
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Old Aug 18th, 2011, 15:28   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Hooded Claw View Post
Oooooo!!!! VERY VERY GREY AREA is that Neil ... Some DID, some DIDN'T My C70 Has one & thats a 2000 T5 (based on the 850) so some VERY LATE Phase 1's DO have em..... I suppose its a matter of WHERE they were on the Production line when they were built.

Keith
OK...thanks for that, Keith..I'm good at "grey" areas...LOL

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