Electrics: Drivers door window switch set problems

[Mistero]

On Saturday morning I parked up went to touch the driver's window switch to close the window and didn't hit the switch firmly. I kind of flicked it, (and it's left it definitely flicked!). Joking aside, after that:
- the driver's switch works the passenger window
- the passenger window switch doesn't work anything
- the central locking mechanism in the driver's door clicks when driving
- the mirrors won't fold
- the door locks and unlocks from outside using the key
By pushing down the door lock button and locking the car on the key, then blipping the immobiliser on and off, I can restore much of the functionality:
- if I don't touch the driver's window switch, the remaining switches on the cluster (including those for the mirrors) work correctly, and the central locking works normally. As soon as I touch the driver's door window switch, it all goes haywire again.

I've had the door panel off, examined the wiring for wear and removed fuses, etc, all to no avail.

I think I've damaged the master switch set unit in that door, (p/n 30798804)so I'd appreciate some guidance on the following points:
- are these units susceptible to this? (I've searched but can't find another thread with exactly these symptoms.)
- if I buy a 2nd hand part, (quoted circa £80), does it need to be associated to the CEM? Or will it just plug in and work?
- is there anything I can try to reset the master switch set?
- could the unit be reset using VIDA / DICE? Or is it really flicked?
- is there any way I can get the driver's door window to close without use of the unit or VIDA / DICE?
- does anyone have a spare working 30798804 for sale?

Thanks and grateful for any advice.
David

[Arctic fox]

It seems to point to the CEM losing the plot. But I would be tempted to remove the drivers door switch assembly, see if it can be opened up and check the contacts etc for any shorting due to a dislodged component.

Then go disconnect and open up the CEM, if it can be opened that is, to see if any obvious signs of shorting or heat damage around the tracks / components.

P.N.
I have no idea if disconnecting the CEM from the power will mean it has to be re programmed using Dice or what ever. Check with a knowledgeable member first.

[Mistero]

Thanks for the reply, Arctic. There's no signs of bent pins or any damage in the connectors and I don't really want to be tinkering with the CEM. I'm guessing I've fried the chip inside the unit, so I've gone ahead and ordered a second-hand one.

I placed an order on Parts Gateway, (I also tried Motorhog, plus Volvo breakers in Huddersfield and Preston), and all 3 of the breakers who replied said it's not uncommon for the unit to fail. All added that the unit may need to be associated to the CEM if the donor car had received software updates.

I've gone for the youngest part on offer, (from a 2010 car), so fingers crossed it won't require a trip to the Leeds indy or a main dealer. Thanks again for the response and I'll update as to how I get on.

BTW I'm in Harrogate, whereabouts in the North of England are you?

[Arctic fox]

Here's hoping it all goes easy for you. Do keep us informed. I'm near Newcastle, someone has to be :]

[SonyVaio]

If possible I would try resetting that window. From the closed position press and hold window switch until window fully down and then keep pressed for an extra couple of seconds and you should hear a click. Then press and hold fully up, keep held for extra seconds until click again. Once you've done this see if there is any difference.

[Mistero]

Thanks for that tip, yes will try that. Can't do it at the mo because the window won't move.
Do I need do that with all the windows / window switches?
Thanks again.