Potential Purchase

AndyN01 · Nov 5th, 2019, 11:58

Hi all,

It's been a while since I had a Volvo - a 2.1 240 saloon the best part of 3 decades ago

Looking at changing my current VW estate for this 2005 V70. While the VW is perfectly OK it doesn't "do it" for me. And it's got the electric handbrake which is great until it seizes on then it's a big pain and quite a big bill to correct.

https://www.cargurus.co.uk/Cars/inve...ting=138324226

MoT shows an advisory for O/S front lower suspension bush. N/S one seems to have been changed for then MoT in April 2016. As far as i can gather this is quite a "usual" thing for V70's?

Despite being "One lady owner" it isn't the best MoT history I've seen but it isn't too bad either.

It's pre DPF which I like. She'll be pottering up and down the M1/A1 from the Midlands to our family in Newcastle quite regularly with our 2 year old ex Guide Dog lab/retriever.

I don't (yet) know about cam belt change. I've also read about some un-gluing (is that a word?) of the handbrake shoes which can cost ££££££'s if not spotted and corrected.

Anything else of particular concern/note/observations?

Thanks in advance.

Andy.

Georgeandkira · Nov 5th, 2019, 13:51

In no particular order:
The handbrake shoes need be examined visually. This involves removing the rear calipers, caliper frames and rear rotors to expose the handbrake parts.
Removal of these parts would be same as if performing a brake job.
Use Volvo parts here.

Given the 105K recommended timing belt change interval you can bet it hasn't been changed in that 95K example.
The belt, idler and tensioner are changed here. Inspect the cam seals or change 'em preemptively. Do not change the water pump in the absence of any evidence of leaks or wear.
No cheap parts here either.

Control arm bushings are no big deal. They're a maintenance item.

Since we don't have diesels here I do not know if the common "glove test" is to be done to this one. Failure to maintain clean engine oil can clog the PCV system causing internal engine pressure. This pressure is what blows the glove up.

If there are service records maybe you can learn the dealership of origin and ask them if they'll print out any service records for you.

Jot the VIN down and keep it with you as you go about inquiring. You'll be asked for it.

By 2005 the badly soldered DIMs were addressed.
The bad ETMs were gone in the petrol engines. I can't tell you about diesel equipment.

reggit · Nov 5th, 2019, 14:14

That's blooming way overpriced, by about £2000 - £2500.

OK, probably a premium for low mileage as there's not many low mileage ones around, but they run forever as long as the cam/aux belt and tensioners are changed as required.

Longhouse21 · Nov 5th, 2019, 14:57

Have to agree with reggit about it being overpriced certainly by £2000, but maybe not by £2500. At 14 years old it should have had a cambelt change, and likely the serpentine as well including tensioners & idle pulleys.
As a manual with that age, you may want to check if the core plug behind the flywheel has been done or if there is any sign of oil leakage from the drip hole on the bell housing.
I note the dealer has it listed as a 163 bhp and it's badged as a D5 but you may want to check the engine cover to make sure it is a Eu3 and not a Eu4 with DPF as 2005 plate is around the change year.(grey = Eu4 & DPF; black = Eu3 & no DPF)
Check swirl flaps if turns out to be a Eu4 known weak point on the Eu4) and intercooler, and look for smoke on hard acceleration. Examine the plastic headlamps for crazing, they're known to fade.
Might want to look at changing the Pirelli tyres, some consider them to be a poor performer on the V70 (causes inconsistent handling & tramlining).
Front discs look a bit suspect and at close to 100K will likely want changing. Handbrake has already been mentioned.
If it turns out to be a EU3 MY2005, it is considered by many to be the best of the bunch combining the solid Eu3 engine with the facelift looks and improvements.
Check the CD changer in the head unit works as they can cause issues.
I'm also very wary of any car that gets that many MOT failures or advisories regarding tyres as they are easiest thing to check and do point to a driver who may not care about car maintenance in general so check the service history carefully.

AndyN01 · Nov 5th, 2019, 16:46

Thanks folks for the swift replies.

So, I'm thinking that, in the absence of any paperwork (+ receipts/invoices), it's: a rear brake strip down and might as well change discs (maybe?) pads & handbrake shoes while in there.

Absolutely check the history of the cam belt & serpentine one.

Get hold of the dealer/garage(s) to confirm history.

Get the VIN.

Check for bell housing oil drips (can you see the core plug with light/mirror etc?)

From my reading I thought the 5 speeds were EU3 and the 6 speeds EU4 but thanks for the heads up with the "easy" engine cover check.

Tyres are always on my list along with (4 wheel?) tracking as that's the last thing between you and the scenery

. And very useful to know that she'll not really like Pirellis.

With not too many about I was struggling with the price but thought that it sounded too much. Thanks for the ball park figure of a "reasonable" price.

Any more very info welcome.

Cheers.

Andy.

Longhouse21 · Nov 5th, 2019, 18:06

Can't see the core plug as it's in the bell housing behind the flywheel (which is why it's an expensive job - gearbox out and might as well change the clutch and slave whilst there, and possibly the DMF. Prices vary typically around the £800 - £1100 mark).
At the lowest point of the bell housing to engine joint there's a small weep hole that should be clear and dry - i think it's visible through the NS wheel arch possibly with a torch, but I'd have to go out in the dark & cold to check!
If the engine looks suspiciously very clean all over I'm always a little wary but I do like to see a not too dirty ("honest") engine bay. As it's a dealer, it has to come with some sort of warranty anyway, so there should be some protection.
The other thing to check as I've alluded to, is the turbo performance. With the low mileage and age it's possible the VNT vanes may be coked and sticking. Check it by giving it "a boot full" through the gears.
They're heavy on suspension, but as G&K has said, consider that as a maintenance item. Still no excuse not to check it out over speed bumps and a few rough surfaces, full MOT or not. Listen for clunks, rattles, groans and squeaks and any wandering off line that might indicate drop links, control arm bushes, ball joints, suspension top hats and bearings past there best.
Be aware of the poor turning circle (watch out on mini roundabouts) and tyre rubbing is fairly normal on full lock. Just feel the steering for knocks, rattles, or juddering that may indicate trouble with the rack or other steering components.
Good luck and enjoy. They are good cars. I've had mine since 2007.

VroomVroomClonk · Nov 6th, 2019, 08:34

One more thing to add is about the pale coloured interior, the same as I have on mine. Well, it is all very nice except for the top surface of the dash which due to its light colour reflects terribly on the underside of the windscreen and really hampers seeing through the screen at virtually any light level. I have found that I need to wear polarised clip-on filters onto my normal driving glasses to have any chance of actually seeing where I'm going.

AndyN01 · Nov 6th, 2019, 08:36

Thanks,

Popped an email enquiry to the dealer about cam belt etc but, apparently, they're closed for the next couple of weeks. I'll go back to them when they reopen.

If anyone knows of a decent, "honest" V70 EU3 please drop me a PM.

Thanks.

Andy.

BobS · Nov 6th, 2019, 11:45

Hi,

I wonder about the dealers resources when it needs to close for 3 weeks? how good are their after sales support?

Quote:

Popped an email enquiry to the dealer about cam belt etc but, apparently, they're closed for the next couple of weeks. I'll go back to them when they reopen.

Bob

sail&fish · Nov 6th, 2019, 21:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyN01

Thanks,

Popped an email enquiry to the dealer about cam belt etc but, apparently, they're closed for the next couple of weeks. I'll go back to them when they reopen.

If anyone knows of a decent, "honest" V70 EU3 please drop me a PM.

Thanks.

Andy.

Andy, I am selling my V70 but we are on the South Coast which may be too far. It is not in such good condition as the one you linked to at CarGurus and is higher mileage. Details are here: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=300265

Advisories from the last MOT were:

Mirror damaged - since repaired
Play in steering rack inner joints
Nearside windscreen washer is weak
Front coil springs corroded
Road wheel slightly distorted offside front

Nov 5th, 2019, 11:58	#1
AndyN01 New Member Last Online: May 22nd, 2023 11:48 Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Tamworth	Potential Purchase Hi all, It's been a while since I had a Volvo - a 2.1 240 saloon the best part of 3 decades ago Looking at changing my current VW estate for this 2005 V70. While the VW is perfectly OK it doesn't "do it" for me. And it's got the electric handbrake which is great until it seizes on then it's a big pain and quite a big bill to correct. https://www.cargurus.co.uk/Cars/inve...ting=138324226 MoT shows an advisory for O/S front lower suspension bush. N/S one seems to have been changed for then MoT in April 2016. As far as i can gather this is quite a "usual" thing for V70's? Despite being "One lady owner" it isn't the best MoT history I've seen but it isn't too bad either. It's pre DPF which I like. She'll be pottering up and down the M1/A1 from the Midlands to our family in Newcastle quite regularly with our 2 year old ex Guide Dog lab/retriever. I don't (yet) know about cam belt change. I've also read about some un-gluing (is that a word?) of the handbrake shoes which can cost ££££££'s if not spotted and corrected. Anything else of particular concern/note/observations? Thanks in advance. Andy.

Nov 5th, 2019, 14:14	#3
reggit Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 07:56 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Preston	That's blooming way overpriced, by about £2000 - £2500. OK, probably a premium for low mileage as there's not many low mileage ones around, but they run forever as long as the cam/aux belt and tensioners are changed as required. __________________ 2009 Volvo V70 D5 (Polestar 225bhp) r-design 180,000 miles Last edited by reggit; Nov 5th, 2019 at 14:17.

Nov 5th, 2019, 14:57	#4
Longhouse21 Master Member Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 21:53 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Warrington	Have to agree with reggit about it being overpriced certainly by £2000, but maybe not by £2500. At 14 years old it should have had a cambelt change, and likely the serpentine as well including tensioners & idle pulleys. As a manual with that age, you may want to check if the core plug behind the flywheel has been done or if there is any sign of oil leakage from the drip hole on the bell housing. I note the dealer has it listed as a 163 bhp and it's badged as a D5 but you may want to check the engine cover to make sure it is a Eu3 and not a Eu4 with DPF as 2005 plate is around the change year.(grey = Eu4 & DPF; black = Eu3 & no DPF) Check swirl flaps if turns out to be a Eu4 known weak point on the Eu4) and intercooler, and look for smoke on hard acceleration. Examine the plastic headlamps for crazing, they're known to fade. Might want to look at changing the Pirelli tyres, some consider them to be a poor performer on the V70 (causes inconsistent handling & tramlining). Front discs look a bit suspect and at close to 100K will likely want changing. Handbrake has already been mentioned. If it turns out to be a EU3 MY2005, it is considered by many to be the best of the bunch combining the solid Eu3 engine with the facelift looks and improvements. Check the CD changer in the head unit works as they can cause issues. I'm also very wary of any car that gets that many MOT failures or advisories regarding tyres as they are easiest thing to check and do point to a driver who may not care about car maintenance in general so check the service history carefully. __________________ Current cars: 2003 V70 D5 SE (MY2004); 2012 CRV 2.0i V-TEC; Gone but not forgotten: 2001 Honda HRV; 1989 VW Polo C Mk2; 2000 Honda Civic VTi Aerodeck ; Cavalier SRi; Cavalier LX; 1971 Triumph Spitfire Mk3; 1963 Triumph Herald.

Nov 5th, 2019, 18:06	#6
Longhouse21 Master Member Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 21:53 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Warrington	Can't see the core plug as it's in the bell housing behind the flywheel (which is why it's an expensive job - gearbox out and might as well change the clutch and slave whilst there, and possibly the DMF. Prices vary typically around the £800 - £1100 mark). At the lowest point of the bell housing to engine joint there's a small weep hole that should be clear and dry - i think it's visible through the NS wheel arch possibly with a torch, but I'd have to go out in the dark & cold to check! If the engine looks suspiciously very clean all over I'm always a little wary but I do like to see a not too dirty ("honest") engine bay. As it's a dealer, it has to come with some sort of warranty anyway, so there should be some protection. The other thing to check as I've alluded to, is the turbo performance. With the low mileage and age it's possible the VNT vanes may be coked and sticking. Check it by giving it "a boot full" through the gears. They're heavy on suspension, but as G&K has said, consider that as a maintenance item. Still no excuse not to check it out over speed bumps and a few rough surfaces, full MOT or not. Listen for clunks, rattles, groans and squeaks and any wandering off line that might indicate drop links, control arm bushes, ball joints, suspension top hats and bearings past there best. Be aware of the poor turning circle (watch out on mini roundabouts) and tyre rubbing is fairly normal on full lock. Just feel the steering for knocks, rattles, or juddering that may indicate trouble with the rack or other steering components. Good luck and enjoy. They are good cars. I've had mine since 2007. __________________ Current cars: 2003 V70 D5 SE (MY2004); 2012 CRV 2.0i V-TEC; Gone but not forgotten: 2001 Honda HRV; 1989 VW Polo C Mk2; 2000 Honda Civic VTi Aerodeck ; Cavalier SRi; Cavalier LX; 1971 Triumph Spitfire Mk3; 1963 Triumph Herald.

Nov 6th, 2019, 08:34	#7
VroomVroomClonk Member Last Online: Mar 21st, 2024 13:44 Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Suffolk	One more thing to add is about the pale coloured interior, the same as I have on mine. Well, it is all very nice except for the top surface of the dash which due to its light colour reflects terribly on the underside of the windscreen and really hampers seeing through the screen at virtually any light level. I have found that I need to wear polarised clip-on filters onto my normal driving glasses to have any chance of actually seeing where I'm going. __________________ V70, 2.4 T5, 2005, Manual.

Nov 5th, 2019, 13:51	#2
Georgeandkira Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 13:03 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Hackensack	In no particular order: The handbrake shoes need be examined visually. This involves removing the rear calipers, caliper frames and rear rotors to expose the handbrake parts. Removal of these parts would be same as if performing a brake job. Use Volvo parts here. Given the 105K recommended timing belt change interval you can bet it hasn't been changed in that 95K example. The belt, idler and tensioner are changed here. Inspect the cam seals or change 'em preemptively. Do not change the water pump in the absence of any evidence of leaks or wear. No cheap parts here either. Control arm bushings are no big deal. They're a maintenance item. Since we don't have diesels here I do not know if the common "glove test" is to be done to this one. Failure to maintain clean engine oil can clog the PCV system causing internal engine pressure. This pressure is what blows the glove up. If there are service records maybe you can learn the dealership of origin and ask them if they'll print out any service records for you. Jot the VIN down and keep it with you as you go about inquiring. You'll be asked for it. By 2005 the badly soldered DIMs were addressed. The bad ETMs were gone in the petrol engines. I can't tell you about diesel equipment.

Nov 5th, 2019, 16:46	#5
AndyN01 New Member Last Online: May 22nd, 2023 11:48 Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Tamworth	Thanks folks for the swift replies. So, I'm thinking that, in the absence of any paperwork (+ receipts/invoices), it's: a rear brake strip down and might as well change discs (maybe?) pads & handbrake shoes while in there. Absolutely check the history of the cam belt & serpentine one. Get hold of the dealer/garage(s) to confirm history. Get the VIN. Check for bell housing oil drips (can you see the core plug with light/mirror etc?) From my reading I thought the 5 speeds were EU3 and the 6 speeds EU4 but thanks for the heads up with the "easy" engine cover check. Tyres are always on my list along with (4 wheel?) tracking as that's the last thing between you and the scenery . And very useful to know that she'll not really like Pirellis. With not too many about I was struggling with the price but thought that it sounded too much. Thanks for the ball park figure of a "reasonable" price. Any more very info welcome. Cheers. Andy.

Nov 6th, 2019, 08:36	#8
AndyN01 New Member Last Online: May 22nd, 2023 11:48 Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Tamworth	Thanks, Popped an email enquiry to the dealer about cam belt etc but, apparently, they're closed for the next couple of weeks. I'll go back to them when they reopen. If anyone knows of a decent, "honest" V70 EU3 please drop me a PM. Thanks. Andy.

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