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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Electrickery help againViews : 1082 Replies : 10Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 24th, 2010, 14:36 | #1 |
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Last Online: Feb 1st, 2011 01:16
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Location: Melbourne
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Electrickery help again
Jumped in my car tonight and the amp light stayed on. My batteries on it's last legs, but according to my gauges the recently fitted alternators putting out 13-14V, amps are neutral (slight twitch to positive when revved), all lights work, but amp light is on and brightens when the car us revved! Any guesses? I have no idea how it's wired
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Jun 24th, 2010, 14:51 | #2 |
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Last Online: Mar 3rd, 2022 14:20
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Location: Edinburgh
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Have you read the swem page? http://www.sw-em.com/AMP_Indicator_ON.htm
Have you got a spare battery you can sling in, see if the light goes out? |
Jun 24th, 2010, 15:24 | #3 |
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Last Online: Feb 8th, 2022 10:19
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Location: Peterborough
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I had the same problem last week.
Had lights and heaters, so it wasn't the stubby fuse that had blown. It ended up being my control unit that was faulty... not sure if this helps or not? Keith |
Jun 24th, 2010, 22:18 | #4 |
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Location: Connecticut, USA
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I try to help, but...
DD;
I you "have no idea how it's wired", why would you expect us to have any better idea of what your AMP light is connected to and indicating...the parties making the modification need to also supply this kind of information. CF; Thanks for reference, but that info is not going to help either...as it states, it applies to OE generator system only! Cheers |
Jun 24th, 2010, 22:53 | #5 |
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Last Online: Feb 1st, 2011 01:16
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Location: Melbourne
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Hi Keith, control unit?
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Jun 25th, 2010, 00:43 | #6 |
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Last Online: Feb 1st, 2011 01:16
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Well I thought I'd run jumper leads across from one of our more modern cars to see if it was a wiring short. Even with both cars running the light stayed on, and both gauges read well (level amps and about 14v), so it looks like a short to me. Anyone know how the amp light is traditionally wired?
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Jun 28th, 2010, 16:48 | #7 |
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Sorry for the delay, DevilishDesigner - only just seen this!
Right, control unit (or voltage regulator to give it a more common name!) is the little box mounted on the o/s/f wing... mine said Bosch on it. Ron Kwas has posted this link before http://www.sw-em.com/AMP_Indicator_ON.htm which may help you. Having thought my problems were solved when I replaced the dyno and voltage regulator, my AMP light is now on and off at roughly 20 min intervals. The fan belt tension seems fine, so I'm wondering if I've got a faulty battery.... Keith |
Jun 28th, 2010, 18:48 | #8 |
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Last Online: Mar 3rd, 2022 14:20
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Again though it depends entirely on how it's wired. What kind of alternator is on there? If it's a new model it probably has its own regulator and bypasses the control unit. If you read the page after the link, read the haynes, figure out the differences between what should be there and what you have then you stand a better chance of fixing it/getting advice on how to fix it.
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Jun 29th, 2010, 01:09 | #9 |
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Last Online: Feb 1st, 2011 01:16
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Location: Melbourne
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The alt is off a 72ish 144S, with a matched reg, just fitted in the last few months. Had probs with the headlights again yesterday (this time I hit the floor switch for high beams and everything went out), so will rebuild the floor switch when I get back from the UK and see if that helps
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Jun 29th, 2010, 11:31 | #10 |
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Last Online: Today 20:59
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Location: Chatham
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Don't know where you are just now DD but you could buy a new dip switch in the UK if needed. from Brookhouse. There's not much you can do with regard to rebuilding them.
Last edited by Derek UK; Jun 29th, 2010 at 11:32. Reason: Addition. |
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