Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > XC90 '02–'15 General
Register Members Cars Help Calendar Extra Stuff

Notices

XC90 '02–'15 General Forum for the P2-platform XC90 model

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

hard shift when stopping

Views : 467

Replies : 5

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Sep 12th, 2020, 19:47   #1
TF2Freak
Junior Member
 

Last Online: Oct 23rd, 2021 16:15
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: London
Default hard shift when stopping

Hello everybody

I bought an 2006 XC90 with 110 000 miles on the odometer with no gear oil change history. Recently the car started to shift hard when stopping. This symptom shows after the car is warmed up but otherwise behaves well. I went to a Volvo indie garage in Herts that told me solenoid issues with my 5 speed transmission and gave the option of flush and drain+fill. I did drain+ fill and the adaptation was reset. It was a small improvment, but still some hard shift. After about 150 miles the improvment is very noticeable but there is still a slight bump I almost cant feel it. The question I have is how bad the situation is because the garage said the original ATF was very black. Should I have done the flush instead of draining+filling? How long will the car left to live?
TF2Freak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Sep 12th, 2020, 20:12   #2
XC70Virgin
Member
 

Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 22:32
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Newry
Default

Do the flush and refill and get the box full of fresh fluid and reset the counter.
__________________
Feb 2010 XC70 SE Lux in White. T6.
XC70Virgin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Sep 12th, 2020, 23:15   #3
Bashy
Aged Member
 
Bashy's Avatar
 

Last Online: Feb 20th, 2024 09:47
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Weeting
Default

A slight bump can be caused by and not limited to
Rear top and bottom mounts, aka torque rods
Driveshaft (hub) bolt

I too had a bad knock/jolt/bump into gear, 2 to 3, 3 to 4th and reverse, these only showed up when the oil was hot enough, ie after a good 20 min run, I did numerous Gibbons flushes and still had the issue until I sorted out the above 3 items, now, whilst I do still get a little jolt, its about 90% better than it was before I addressed the above issues.

My box is the 6 speed but the principle is the same

Just food for thought and saying don't be focused entirely on the box itself...

You were right to do that drain and fill 1st, least it will give it chance to remove and loose deposit where as a flush can move those into other parts and could make it worse, so drain and fill 1st then perhaps a gibbons flush may rectify i fully, only 'may' though....
__________________
Regards, Bashy
MY07 (56 plate) V70 Geartronic 2.4 D5 185bhp 173k, 17", full leather, an auto-dimming mirror and auto wipers are the best it can do - I have added (poorly) limo black, rear camera and parking sensors

Last edited by Bashy; Sep 12th, 2020 at 23:18.
Bashy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Sep 12th, 2020, 23:25   #4
MROffroad
New Member
 

Last Online: Nov 13th, 2020 23:52
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Surrey
Default

Hard shifting is a sign of low fluid. It’s worth getting the oil and filter changed. Not cheap. But it’s cheaper then a new box. Oil and filter should be done every 40k less if towing had.
MROffroad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Sep 26th, 2020, 09:40   #5
TF2Freak
Junior Member
 

Last Online: Oct 23rd, 2021 16:15
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: London
Default thanks

The general advice I have read is for a high mileage car not flush but use drain and fills if in there is no previous history of ATF change. Am I clear for the flush or is there advice against it? Do I go for another fluid change? I need 6 liters for my first change. Is this 50% ATF needed for full? Is 50% ATF fresh in my gearbox? I'm guessing the first liquid change is 50% new ATF and second means 75% new ATF? I'm not mechanmically minded and this is my first automatic car. I have a lot of questions! The garage I'm using is Horton Cars in Aylesbury.
TF2Freak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Sep 26th, 2020, 13:22   #6
paddy74
Senior Member
 
paddy74's Avatar
 

Last Online: Mar 29th, 2021 13:49
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Near Munich
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MROffroad View Post
Hard shifting is a sign of low fluid. It’s worth getting the oil and filter changed. Not cheap. But it’s cheaper then a new box. Oil and filter should be done every 40k less if towing had.
This type of transmission doesn't have a filter to change... The only way to change a so called filter is to open up the gear box...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TF2Freak View Post
The general advice I have read is for a high mileage car not flush but use drain and fills if in there is no previous history of ATF change. Am I clear for the flush or is there advice against it? Do I go for another fluid change? I need 6 liters for my first change. Is this 50% ATF needed for full? Is 50% ATF fresh in my gearbox? I'm guessing the first liquid change is 50% new ATF and second means 75% new ATF? I'm not mechanmically minded and this is my first automatic car. I have a lot of questions! The garage I'm using is Horton Cars in Aylesbury.
If the oil is dark, you should do a drain&fill. That means, you do change the fluid over time, and not in one turn. Normally it is a change around 3.x litres, and the exact same amount is filled up afterwards (in every turn of drain&fill). Than a little driving (a few hundred miles) is done, so the oil can be mixed with the old oil. Next drain&fill, and so on, until the fluid is relatively clear (reddish). That's the point were you can do a flush.

You always change only that amount of oil, that is drained. Not 50% or 75%, it is always the amount, that get's drained when you open the screw and let it drain.

Make sure, the oil level is correct, best to check with VIDA.
__________________
Volvo XC90 D5 AWD Summum MY05
Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic Electra Glide MY91 FLHTCU
paddy74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:49.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.