my volvo 850se journal

[duke1]

hi all well im getting on well with the volvo mechanic work is so easy compared to the pug about 10x quicker doing the same jobs
today i stripped out the cambelt and as expected its been changed previously at 80k but under the covers is wet and very difficult to tell how much is water and how much is oil/water/dirt conglomerate,so im going the hole hog and doing the lot belt all guide rollers and the tensioner will be reused as its an easy part to test off the car and as you need to remove it to reset the hand grenade style release pin arrangement any great wear is obvious as it should take a good 2-5 minutes to fully compress in the clamp if it goes too quick its knackered!and at around 100 pounds cost its an expense too far.
ordered this and should sort the car for a few years,also ordered 2x camshaft front oil seals,belt and braces so as never to have to go there again! :mrgreen:
https://www.winparts.co.uk/engine-parts ... m_content=
i shall get pics now i got some life in me camera battery,peace

[RollingThunder]

The hydraulic tensioner needs to be compressed much slower than that - a half turn of the vice/clamp every 5 mins. Should take 30 mins or so to fully compress - any quicker and you may damage it

Glad to see that I'm not the only one who does the belt & braces stuff - and that you've trumped me! I'm not doing my cam seals as they seem ok. I am doing the tensioner though due to its importance - even though I have never heard of one fail

[duke1]

Originally Posted by RollingThunder

The hydraulic tensioner needs to be compressed much slower than that - a half turn of the vice/clamp every 5 mins. Should take 30 mins or so to fully compress - any quicker and you may damage it

Glad to see that I'm not the only one who does the belt & braces stuff - and that you've trumped me! I'm not doing my cam seals as they seem ok. I am doing the tensioner though due to its importance - even though I have never heard of one fail

hi i thought it best doing the front camshaft seals as there has been little servicing and the pcv has been allowed to clog with crud and is going to be next after cambelt and waterpump but as a result the oil seals have been stressed and theres visible seepage under the plastic backplate of the timing cover which judging by witness marks can only be from the seals,thankfully the new tool kit has the correct tool for removing the seals something ive never had so will be novel for me!
well today i only got a little done on the car but it was my nemesis you see my previous vehicle needed the boots replacing on the balljoints every bloody mot they rot like crazy on the old pug 406s and is horrid job as the damn driveshaft is far to easy to pop out and 1 sec of it popped emptied large volume of stinking gearoil all over the drive,the volvo is better behaved and retained both driveshaft and contents of gearbox,one side down!
and next time i have the energy i shall do the other.
then thats everything noted on the last mot dealt with and she is going in early for the next,before the post covid mot stampede!
peace all

[RollingThunder]

Ah, I see. If its weeping a bit then yes, they'll need to be replaced

Do a write up of it if you can - I'd be interested to see how you do these as I've never done them before.

[duke1]

Originally Posted by RollingThunder

Ah, I see. If its weeping a bit then yes, they'll need to be replaced

Do a write up of it if you can - I'd be interested to see how you do these as I've never done them before.

hi ive never done the volvo ones but it looks same as the audi/vw system and pretty foolproof.
at the moment im pacing myself trying not to overdo/overspend and end up ill and in trouble with the missus.
but not wanting to scrimp on essential bits but by taking the time to disassemble and check each job before i order anything i can do without and only buy what i cannot recondition myself.
i have come to a bit of a problem trying to change the balljoint boot on o/s as in the damn pinchbolt is kindly rounded of already and seized beyond belief even after undoing the nut the bolt remains stuck despite copious soaking in penetrating oil.
and i even resorted to a diy tool to try drive the bolt through which only managed to bend the protruding threaded part of the bolt,it appears the head of the bolt has fused with the metal it goes through in a manner most difficult to deal with, as in i dare not use heat as car is liable to go woosh in flames.
and theres not enough room to use the grinder and chop the head of the bolt without damaging driveshaft and boot,is there any such thing as a split balljoint cover like the cv boots you glue on?i do not fancy having to remove the whole damn shebang driveshafts and suspension just for sake of 1 poxy bolt,i replaced other side with nice stainless nuts and bolts so as i never have same trouble again.
i intend this car to be a keeper and being a retired mechanic with ocd this could turn into an epic journal!
as requested i took a few pics!
also on the matter of the pcv system is there a list of needed parts for my old banger here,she is 1994 non turbo and engine code in pic any help would be great,stay safe all and thanks for any help and replies,peace

[duke1]

some more pics

[4x4]

5252S is the 10v engine

[RollingThunder]

The timing marks on the crank pulley are very difficult to see if you've never seen them before

They're actually a notch in two adjacent teeth - you align the valley between them with a casting mark on the block. I'll try and find a pic for you.

Here you go, better still. RobertDIY to the rescue

https://youtu.be/Efel75s7AVU

[duke1]

Originally Posted by RollingThunder

The timing marks on the crank pulley are very difficult to see if you've never seen them before

They're actually a notch in two adjacent teeth - you align the valley between them with a casting mark on the block. I'll try and find a pic for you.

Here you go, better still. RobertDIY to the rescue

https://youtu.be/Efel75s7AVU

hi bud i did find them and used some paint as a clearer reference,cheers
hi all well its taken me 2 days on and off trying to dodge hottest part of the day as i have copd and get breathless easy esp when its this damn hot,it addles your brain and being a cambelt thats no job for a less than perfect brain!
i think a 10 thumbs owned this before and has tried to do several of the notes from mot ie the balljoint boots etc and not only rounded them off but broken and left several bolts from around the car,one being a waterpump bolt sheared just above the engine block and i was lucky after removing the old pump the remaining stud came out with a little help of a pair of tiny molegrips,
after that it was easy enough once i worked out the timing belt had hung up on a bolthead where it loops the crankshaft which explains why it was a bit short!!
the worst bit of the job is the tensioner hydraulic and has to be removed and in a vice to close it and takes an age to close one wind every 5 minutes for 30 minutes a time,i had to do so 5 times!first time wound back and stuck a small nail through to lock it released vice and nail bent.broke launched across my workshop!back to the bench and this time found a rivet that held but then found id forgot the plastic spacer that should be on top of the tensioner,off again and after slapping myself i got it right and fitted up ready to fire up later when the cauldron cools!pics later. peace

[4x4]

The plastic spacer just pushes in once the tensioner is in place, there was no need to take it all off again