Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > 700/900 Series General
Register Members Cars Help Calendar Extra Stuff

Notices

700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Prop shaft centre bearing.

Views : 2244

Replies : 43

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Oct 19th, 2020, 10:37   #1
GrahamWright
Junior Member
 

Last Online: Apr 13th, 2024 11:43
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newent
Default Prop shaft centre bearing.

The bearing feels fine but the housing is shot resulting in vibration at certain speeds.
I have removed the shaft but the splined joint refuses to separate. I assume the grease has turned into glue.
Is there any way other than contriving a splitter at the UJ?
GrahamWright is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Oct 19th, 2020, 11:14   #2
lynns hubby
Master Member
 

Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 11:15
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Great Yarmouth
Default

sounds like your vibration issue, or at least some of it, could be with the splined shafts if they are refusing to pull apart.
Have you tried getting some "Plus Gas" or similar using the straw to get it inside the bellows/boot then working it back and forth to free it.
lynns hubby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Oct 19th, 2020, 13:21   #3
Jimsiss
Senior Member
 

Last Online: Today 07:14
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Northwich
Default

If you can get heat in without melting anything then that normally frees stuck components quite well.

Acetone and ATF mixed (50/50 mix) works very well for freeing rusted/stuck components.

I have the same job to do this weekend if the bearing arrives this week, not looking forward to it, may have to clear my Gran’s garage to get at the pit to make it easier.
__________________
940 B230FT
Jimsiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Oct 19th, 2020, 13:30   #4
GrahamWright
Junior Member
 

Last Online: Apr 13th, 2024 11:43
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newent
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimsiss View Post
If you can get heat in without melting anything then that normally frees stuck components quite well.

Acetone and ATF mixed (50/50 mix) works very well for freeing rusted/stuck components.

I have the same job to do this weekend if the bearing arrives this week, not looking forward to it, may have to clear my Gran’s garage to get at the pit to make it easier.
The end of the spline is bright and the boot intact so there is a chance the joint is not rusted.

I'm on version 2 of the splitter now!
GrahamWright is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Oct 19th, 2020, 15:18   #5
Laird Scooby
Premier Member
 
Laird Scooby's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 09:36
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamWright View Post
The end of the spline is bright and the boot intact so there is a chance the joint is not rusted.

I'm on version 2 of the splitter now!
A bearing puller with long arms will help shift the bearing on the propshaft. Alternatively use some soft jaws to hold the shaft in the vice and a drift on the centre race of the bearing with a lump hammer driving the drift. Go alternate sides to help it come off squarely, it's easier that way.

As already stated WMP (Weapon of Mass Penetration) made from 50/50 acetone and synthetic ATF works well as a penetrating fluid. Shake well before each use and keep sealed to prevent the acetone evaporating.

Once you've fitted the new bearing/bracket assembly, take it for a test drive. If there's any vibration, note the speed and return to base. Crawl under (don't jack the car ) and slacken the bolts holding the bracket to the floorpan 1/2 a turn.
Go for another short drive, accelerating as smoothly and gently as possible to the speed where the vibration happened. It should disappear, return to base and tighten the bolts a little at a time evenly in turn until they're all tight. Retest, if all good check tighten the bolts and call it good!
__________________
Cheers
Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........
Laird Scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Oct 19th, 2020, 16:10   #6
GrahamWright
Junior Member
 

Last Online: Apr 13th, 2024 11:43
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newent
Default

Well, it took just 5 hours to separate at the spline. I made a clamp that fitted round the male part of the joint (plain not spline) and a series of levers to start it (impossible to describe in words). Once there was a sufficient gap, I could use screws against the clamp.
If anyone is interested (and if it is possible to post photos) I can show the construction.

Now - is this splined joint supposed to free fit? Is it provided to take up dynamic fore and aft movement or is it to take up the static slack between the gearbox and diff?

If the former. I am going to have problems.

Removing the bearing and housing (what's left of it) I hope will be more straight forward.

Thanks for the advice.
GrahamWright is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Oct 19th, 2020, 13:28   #7
GrahamWright
Junior Member
 

Last Online: Apr 13th, 2024 11:43
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newent
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lynns hubby View Post
sounds like your vibration issue, or at least some of it, could be with the splined shafts if they are refusing to pull apart.
Have you tried getting some "Plus Gas" or similar using the straw to get it inside the bellows/boot then working it back and forth to free it.
I've hacked off the rubber which was completely disintegrated. That was allowing the whole shaft to move up and down significantly. I am now trying to fabricate something that will allow leverage against the bearing housing, which in turn is backed up by vice jaws (a bit nervous in case I crush the spline outer).
GrahamWright is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 14:27.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.