Head Torque

sidmon · Mar 15th, 2006, 05:48

I am looking at retorqueing the headbolts on my '97 V90. Will I have to remove the cam cover and gasket and what are the actual torque settings and tightening sequence.

sidmon · Mar 16th, 2006, 21:19

OK I guess no one knows the torque settings

( Does anyone know where the new O Ring off the metal coolant pipe underneath the exhaust manifold fits? It looks like it fits into the water pump but the old seal looks impossible to remove. Also there is a large pipe/breather underneath the exhaust manifold when you remove the manifold.....does anyone know oif anything should be attached to this? Mine is fully open and looks like its missing a connecting pipe!

Peter Milnes · Mar 17th, 2006, 02:32

The head bolts for your car are tightened in three stages. The first stage is to 20Nm (15ftlbs). Stage two is to 60Nm (44ftlbs). The third stage is an angle tightening (in one movement) by 130 degrees.

Sequence is :-

F 11 7 3 1 5 9 13
R
O
N
T 12 8 4 2 6 10 14

Unless removing the top and lower sections of the head you should not need to disturb the gasket. The top section of the head is the camshaft carrier. and needs to be removed to gain access to the head bolts. It has special sealing compound applied with care so that the coolant and oil passages are not clogged or contaminated with sealant. The use of special tools 5453 (retainer) and 5452 (locating tool without it's extension pieces) for installing camshafts with 5454 (2 off press tools) is essential for proper fitting of the top part of the head (camshaft carrier). The tightening torque for the retaining bolts is 17Nm (12ftlbs) starting at centre and working outwards. As the camshaft carrier must be removed then so must the cambelt. I would not like to tackle the job myself as there are too many pitfalls for the unwary. Perhaps this is why you had no replies to your original post.

All the best, Peter.

sidmon · Mar 17th, 2006, 12:01

Thanks for your help Pete think I'll leave the torqueing up after all! I Have attempted to complete repair today of refitting the coolant pipe and the exhaust manifolds....but this wont be completed today....I will now have to complete on Monday. I have read in the FAQ that the new manifold gaskets need to have a sealant on the surfaces as well.....what surface sealer should I be using...I only have RTV and Blue Gasket non setting type sealer in the garage. Also the manifold gaskets (Not main dealer but pattern type) have a softer grey spongy side and a bright metal side but no indication of what side should go where and I have removed and binned the old ones! Any help appreciated!

Peter Milnes · Mar 18th, 2006, 00:04

I can only suggest that you check which way the manifold gaskets were when removed from engine. From my earlier days of tinkering I think that the metal face was next to the block (soft face outwards), unless, of course, "someone knows better".

The Liquid Sealing Compound has a Volvo part number which is 1 161 059-9 and is also used to install the sump. It is possible that German, Swedish & French, or Eurocarparts, stock the sealant.

All the best, Peter.

sidmon · Mar 20th, 2006, 12:59

When I spoke to the part department at the main dealer today he told me that he has never sold the compound in his life and if he was me he would just use a manifold compound from Halfords!!!

Peter Milnes · Mar 21st, 2006, 02:08

These dealers, they are so not helpful. Might help others if you post up the dealers name and address as a "not very helpful dealer". He may mean that he doesn't service Volvos according to the correct schedules.

All the best, Peter.

sidmon · Mar 21st, 2006, 09:53

He was very helpful Peter....saving me £17.00 in the end!.....his honesty was refreshing!

Mar 15th, 2006, 05:48	#1
sidmon Member Last Online: Jun 30th, 2015 12:04 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Near Birmingham	Head Torque I am looking at retorqueing the headbolts on my '97 V90. Will I have to remove the cam cover and gasket and what are the actual torque settings and tightening sequence.

Mar 17th, 2006, 02:32	#3
Peter Milnes Premier Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2014 00:01 Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tonyrefail	The head bolts for your car are tightened in three stages. The first stage is to 20Nm (15ftlbs). Stage two is to 60Nm (44ftlbs). The third stage is an angle tightening (in one movement) by 130 degrees. Sequence is :- F 11 7 3 1 5 9 13 R O N T 12 8 4 2 6 10 14 Unless removing the top and lower sections of the head you should not need to disturb the gasket. The top section of the head is the camshaft carrier. and needs to be removed to gain access to the head bolts. It has special sealing compound applied with care so that the coolant and oil passages are not clogged or contaminated with sealant. The use of special tools 5453 (retainer) and 5452 (locating tool without it's extension pieces) for installing camshafts with 5454 (2 off press tools) is essential for proper fitting of the top part of the head (camshaft carrier). The tightening torque for the retaining bolts is 17Nm (12ftlbs) starting at centre and working outwards. As the camshaft carrier must be removed then so must the cambelt. I would not like to tackle the job myself as there are too many pitfalls for the unwary. Perhaps this is why you had no replies to your original post. All the best, Peter. Last edited by Peter Milnes; Mar 17th, 2006 at 02:34.

Mar 16th, 2006, 21:19	#2
sidmon Member Last Online: Jun 30th, 2015 12:04 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Near Birmingham	OK I guess no one knows the torque settings ( Does anyone know where the new O Ring off the metal coolant pipe underneath the exhaust manifold fits? It looks like it fits into the water pump but the old seal looks impossible to remove. Also there is a large pipe/breather underneath the exhaust manifold when you remove the manifold.....does anyone know oif anything should be attached to this? Mine is fully open and looks like its missing a connecting pipe!

Mar 17th, 2006, 12:01	#4
sidmon Member Last Online: Jun 30th, 2015 12:04 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Near Birmingham	Thanks for your help Pete think I'll leave the torqueing up after all! I Have attempted to complete repair today of refitting the coolant pipe and the exhaust manifolds....but this wont be completed today....I will now have to complete on Monday. I have read in the FAQ that the new manifold gaskets need to have a sealant on the surfaces as well.....what surface sealer should I be using...I only have RTV and Blue Gasket non setting type sealer in the garage. Also the manifold gaskets (Not main dealer but pattern type) have a softer grey spongy side and a bright metal side but no indication of what side should go where and I have removed and binned the old ones! Any help appreciated!

Mar 18th, 2006, 00:04	#5
Peter Milnes Premier Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2014 00:01 Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tonyrefail	I can only suggest that you check which way the manifold gaskets were when removed from engine. From my earlier days of tinkering I think that the metal face was next to the block (soft face outwards), unless, of course, "someone knows better". The Liquid Sealing Compound has a Volvo part number which is 1 161 059-9 and is also used to install the sump. It is possible that German, Swedish & French, or Eurocarparts, stock the sealant. All the best, Peter.

Mar 20th, 2006, 12:59	#6
sidmon Member Last Online: Jun 30th, 2015 12:04 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Near Birmingham	When I spoke to the part department at the main dealer today he told me that he has never sold the compound in his life and if he was me he would just use a manifold compound from Halfords!!!

Mar 21st, 2006, 02:08	#7
Peter Milnes Premier Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2014 00:01 Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tonyrefail	These dealers, they are so not helpful. Might help others if you post up the dealers name and address as a "not very helpful dealer". He may mean that he doesn't service Volvos according to the correct schedules. All the best, Peter.

Mar 21st, 2006, 09:53	#8
sidmon Member Last Online: Jun 30th, 2015 12:04 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Near Birmingham	He was very helpful Peter....saving me £17.00 in the end!.....his honesty was refreshing!

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