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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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164E non-starterViews : 1871 Replies : 10Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 28th, 2018, 13:29 | #1 |
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164E non-starter
Have been nipping in and out dodging showers, trying to make my 164E fire. Last used only 3 days ago when all was fine, it refused to fire at all yesterday, so put the battery on charge overnight as I hurt it a bit.
Car has all new electrics, courtesy Brookhouse: coil, condenser, cap, rotor and leads all replaced about 600 miles ago. However, suspected hairline crack in cap so put old one back on (worked so kept as spare), ditto rotor and condenser as wasn't sure if the spark when flicking points was bluish indicating condenser failure: nothing. Plugs were wet so cleaned and dried (only 800 miles old) and checked for spark - OK. Ditto king lead to earth - sparked fine when whizzed over. Also checked fuses under-bonnet - again all OK. I also sprayed high-octane stuff down the manifold but not a flicker. I see from Haynes manual they suggest auxiliary air regulator and cold start valve may be faulty, but as the car was fine when I switched it off, have any of you any ideas what else to try (its certainly cold enough here to warrant cold-start virtues) - but not even a cough, implying either fuel or electricity I reckon. I have a locking fuel cap so the local scum couldn't have put some wrapped sugar lumps in my tank (as happened on my old Ford decades ago) thus lowering the octane rating. Any ideas where I go now gratefully received. Paul |
Oct 28th, 2018, 14:44 | #2 | |
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Oct 28th, 2018, 15:07 | #3 |
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Assuming your plugs were wet with unburnt fuel, 'Triple-S', petrol is presumably being injected when cranking the motor. I've had plugs that have seemed fine when flashed against the head, but which refused to fire under load. It would indeed be unusual for all six to simultaneously exhibit this fault, however. Do you have a known spare set that you could substitute. I've never had dealings with a 164E, but recall that my 145E was very sensitive to plugs and only ever really liked Bosch.
I must admit that the sudden onset of the problem is more indicative of a sudden component failure, and can only suggest that you once again systematically check through the fuel and electric systems in a bid to identify the culprit. I am sorry that I cannot be more helpful. Regards, John.
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Oct 28th, 2018, 15:35 | #4 | |
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Oct 29th, 2018, 11:15 | #5 |
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Thanks to John and Clan for advice: now I'm back from shopping (not in the car!) will check out those suggestions. Not sure of make of plugs - will investigate - I merely put them on the list I gave to Brookhouse. I have the original set and boxes so will swap.... Hope to move it off the road as soon as the neighbour opposite has had his skip taken away - he tried to offer advice yesterday as he's into vintage motorbikes. Might be pushing it....
Does the cold start thingie automatically revert to 'choke' until the sensors detect not necessary, or the other way round? ie does it have to set to 'choke' only after its initial temperature assessment? Will advise progress. P |
Oct 29th, 2018, 11:24 | #6 | |
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Nov 2nd, 2018, 20:02 | #7 |
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Further on my problem 164E, a recommended local guy came round after work tonight, and after a bit of checking he disconnected the cold start valve/injector thing, replaced the plugs with known good (and dry!) ones and she burst into life again!
He concluded that is the faulty component so will hunt for a spare tomorrow. However, one thing he also commented on: the new rotor had wiped some of the poles inside the cap. Implication - perhaps the dizzy top bearing is on its way out and allowing it to whip out of true. Must look at that when light too. No wonder less people run the older car as an everyday nowadays..... P |
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Nov 2nd, 2018, 23:10 | #8 |
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Glad you were able to get her running! Did you test the cold start injector while you had it disconnected? If it started with it disconnected, I'd be willing to guess that this was not at fault and that the problem was with the plugs. As far as the distributor goes, I'd highly recommend trying to find an electronic/non-points setup (including the ignition module + ballast resistor) from a '75, so that you could get rid of the points and condenser, leaving you with 2 less things to worry about.
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Nov 3rd, 2018, 09:47 | #9 | |
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What can give trouble are the forgotten Fuel injector triggering contacts in the lower half of the distributor , there are two pairs on a common plate , they do not need changing and have no adjustment , just a bit of maintenance now and again .. clean the contacts and a smear of grease on the cam ... oil vapour gets on the contacts after a few years ... Don't forget the Condenser , again they were top quality and never gave problems , but if in the last 40 years people have wrongly changed them to a cheap Chinese condenser that could give a problem .. I would happily fit a genuine bosch one which was 40 years old !
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Nov 3rd, 2018, 10:13 | #10 |
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I concur, 'Clan'. We always ran our older Volvos (which were much less old then, of course) on Bosch plugs and points with very few issues between services.
We very quickly learnt that cheaper (inferior) ones were a false economy. Plugs were unreliable under load and seemed to require constant cleaning and regapping. Likewise, we were forever chasing the points gap as the heel wore down very quickly in use. Regards, John.
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