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Swirl Arm low cost repair!

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Old Apr 30th, 2016, 13:27   #121
Wojo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luggsey View Post
I just drilled a small hole in th ball and use use small split pin to hold it I place.
Took about ten minutes all in and near far it seems to be a permanent repair.
Is there any chance for some photo of your solution?
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Old Jun 4th, 2016, 21:09   #122
Goldieoldieb
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Default Xc90 swirl arm

Hi All
I have a 2007 xc90 d5.
At 50k the swirl arm came off .Replaced and at 60k came off again !
Looking at the old arm I noticed it was covered in oil from the cover above .
A common leak I'm told
The oil seemed to have caused the seat on the arm to soften
I have put a new arm on with a good dob of silicon grease on the arm cups
I'm hoping the silicone will protect the cup from the effects of engine oil .It also provides lubrication
Time will tell if it helps this problem !
Cheers Pete
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Old Jun 7th, 2016, 21:36   #123
Goldieoldieb
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Default Xc 90 swirl arm

I Have now added a limit bracket ( see pic )
I am using a plastic nut as the stop because I thought rubber has too much give
And need to stop the travel reliably
One thought ,I wonder if we need to limit the travel the other way as when it calibrates it must go the other way with the same torque resulting in ripping the arm off ?
Or is there a limit on the motor so it's not necessary the other way ?
Cheers Pete
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Old Aug 29th, 2016, 18:11   #124
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I bought a 57 S60 D5 185 needing a bit of tlc. One of the problems is this Swirl Flap nonsense. The lever is solidly connected to the motor but the engine end is off. I like the idea of the glue and latex, and the tie-wrap solution, but has anyone tried epoxy steel. I'm thinking of getting the engine hot and then smearing some e-steel on the inside of the lever before sliding it over the steel ball and then covering either side of the lever with the e-steel - and then leaving it for about 48 hours.

Any particular thoughts on why this wouldn't work before I start?
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Old Oct 2nd, 2016, 08:46   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LaurieB View Post
Nice design using a stopper, I would guess if conducted and calibrated properly that would be a robust fix, however I am perhaps to lazy to do this job properly.

I have adopted a slightly different, perhaps easier and less complex approach. Rather than an electrical engineer I am a metallurgist/mechanical engineer, just for the record.

My approach is based on the assumption that the variable swirl system in question is not measurably sensitive to one or two degrees of butterfly valve rotational variance. I am guessing it mostly uses completely closed, completely open and maybe three or four different positions in-between.To support my assumption without going into fluid-mechanics, I would argue that the original Volvo design is not a true servo system, and therefore is susceptible to a considerable amount of rotational drift itself, particularly in between calibration periods, therefore Volvo obviously decided that this system did not need to be accurate to 1-2degrees.

So I thought why not use a really ductile and tough piece of wire, to act a bit like a spring between the actuator and valves, I used a keyring that I uncoiled and looped round the ball on the actuator arm and hooked on to the valve actuation arm on the block side. This system means when the actuator is fully open the valves are fully open, and when the actuator is fully closed the valves are fully closed. However in between open and closed positions I would estimate there could be 1-2deg of rotational drift.

The fact the linkage is so flexible means that it is practically impossible for any components of the linkage to be excessively stressed and fracture.

I think the problem allot of people, including Volvo it would appear have run into, is that they assumed they needed to make a bigger stronger linkage, which then breaks because the excessively powerful actuator loads it up when it drifts and when it re calibrates. The true culprit of the failure however is the inaccuracy of the actuator, and to solve this you need a flexible linkage. The forces needed to actuate the butterfly valves are minute, so a small piece of wire is more than capable of transferring the required load.

My Keyring fix is working fine for solving the performance issues (Was very down on power), just need to get the error message removed at some point, I will report back if the message returns. Although I am highly doubtful it will as I am sure that the 1-2deg of variation will have no significant effect on the flow through the system, as the turbulence are so unpredictable anyway. There is no chance that an AMFS with a +/- 15% tol will be able to pick up a tiny variation in the swirl valve position.
Sound reasoning...I fashioned a similar flexible arm from a large paper clip and it works a treat. Will see how long it lasts...
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Old Oct 8th, 2016, 21:38   #126
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This one, I was just reading it

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...t=92301&page=2

There are others but I have not been logging them all. It is a shame, although the instructables are good, pictures are always great at helping
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Old Oct 18th, 2016, 23:01   #127
galloot633
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Just knocked this up today, it's an original arm cut in half and held in tension with the spring , I'll fit it tomorrow and come back if it works .
Dave
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Old Oct 18th, 2016, 23:04   #128
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Sorry about that , photo failed, I'll try again on my laptopdave
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Old Oct 18th, 2016, 23:18   #129
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hopefully this pic will work
dave
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Old Oct 24th, 2016, 15:14   #130
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Ive also added an " o " to a recess in the socket because the swirl arm ball is worn , working ok so far
Dave
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