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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Cheap Shell engine oilViews : 2018 Replies : 19Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 12th, 2017, 12:15 | #11 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: May 2nd, 2018 08:14
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Location: DownSouth
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A 5w30 is thicker than an 0w30 when the oil is warm (Complicated explanation to do with the way SAE groups are defined), but for an older worn diesel, or one that does long oil change intervals, an 0 or 5w40 would be better.
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2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards. SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC. Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research) |
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Aug 12th, 2017, 14:44 | #12 |
Non Fragile
Last Online: Oct 13th, 2023 05:46
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chadderton, Oldham
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Haha, amazing isn't it, how experiences vary. Apart from a few commercial vehicles, I've always run petrol cars. And I've yet to find one whose oil doesn't turn black, or at least very dark brown. On the dipstick it looks golden, but put it in a jar and it's nowhere near as transparent as when it went in. I usually change mine annually, and I've been using 10/40 semi-synthetic.
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Aug 12th, 2017, 22:18 | #13 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: May 2nd, 2018 08:14
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Location: DownSouth
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Volvo only listed Magnetec 10w40 as OEM dealer spec (Not the same as design spec) because it was OK for any of the V40 engines. 10w oils have a cold pour point of around minus 25C and that means that they should not be used for cold starts below minus 15C, as that is the temp when the slower oil flow and increased oil filter bypass time results in more main block wear (Not good for the turbo bearings in particular). Above that temp the only real issue is how much more effort is required by the battery and starter motor during cold starts. Most newer cars have weaker starter motors and smaller batteries than they did in the old days, as they are easier to start due to modern ignition or injection systems. The use of 0 or 5wX oils also reduces the electrical loads during cold starts. If I had a petrol V40, I would use a major brand full synthetic 10w30 longlife oil during the summer and an 0w30 during the winter. A 10w30 will last longer than an 0 or 10w40 in residual viscosity terms, cos it contains less viscosity improver (VI) additives. Those additive are a negative factor in resisting high temp shearing of the oil in the turbo bearings in particular. That means the oil with the least VI's will not thin out as much, so can be used for longer IF it contains enough detergent additives and it not subject to too much fuel, Silicon (Bad air filters) or anti freeze contamination. Many good 10w30's finish up thicker than 0w40 oils at the end of a typical 5 to 10K mile OCI. Most petrol engines can use 0 or 5w20 oils during the winter if the OCI is not too long. The 0w20's are used a lot in the USA to help fuel economy figures, but I would not use them during the summer, particularly if you have a big right boot or tow a heavy box or caravan.
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2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards. SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC. Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research) |
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Aug 13th, 2017, 16:41 | #14 |
Non Fragile
Last Online: Oct 13th, 2023 05:46
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chadderton, Oldham
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All that might be true, I s'pose. You certainly sound like you've done your homework. Our car is still on the same starter-motor and battery it had when we bought it, six or seven years ago. It's coming up to 180,000 miles now.
In that regard, starter motor and battery longevity seems pretty good. And definately cheaper than expensive oils and more frequent changes. This is a 20 year old car, and it's on it's last legs. I'm expecting to retire it from duty within a year. It'll get rock-bottom price 10/40 oil, and it'll just have to do. No way am I spending twice as much on (Ha!) "magnetic" oil. Might as claim to have fairy dust as an ingerdient. No sludge in my engine either. I know because last year I had it down to it's component parts almost. I think you have too much faith in all these detergents and additive, personally. They should call it snake oil. |
Aug 14th, 2017, 08:33 | #15 | |
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Last Online: May 2nd, 2018 08:14
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: DownSouth
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Quote:
Obviously it's not possible to inspect the turbo oil feed pipe to see if it has varnished up and it's also not easy to measure the oil pressure supplied to it. If there is any degree of restriction to it or the oil feed pressure is low because of more general wear or sludge in the oil system, the turbo bearings are not going to last anything like as long as the main block. I have never inspected my turbo feed pipe, or measured it's inlet oil pressure, so I try to make sure it is 100% clean AND that the turbo bearings have the best possible layer of anti wear additives to protect them from initial cold start or even hot shut down issues. To do that means using an oil that will not allow top end varnish to form AND has the best possible anti wear additives (Some of them are in reality friction or extreme pressure modifyers. My old V40 diesel gets subject to the most appaling abuse, like hot and heavy horse box towing (High bearing loads), cold start abuse, short tripping and the one that really does murder older turbo bearings, the dreaded autobahn emergency pee stop. "She who must be obeyed", drove me to Munich airport a few months and due to the fact that there was very little traffic she drove at max continous RPM (The handbook says it's 4000 for the 1.9D) which seems to be around the 100 mph mark, so not possible in the UK. I was real pleased we were burning the cylinders, EGR, turbo and even CAT clean, BUT nearly cried when she turned off into a service station and switched off, 4000 RPM to zero in about 15 seconds! The only reason the turbo bearings have not failed yet is that they are protected by a combined layer of mostly Zinc and Boron Nitride (Hexagonal form used in Ceratec). Not sure how much Moly is in that layer, but that additive also helps in run dry situations. Using a good oil, filter and change intervals matched to the condition and useage is a very sensible insurance policy. PS: Using a major brand full synthetic oil will remove pre existing varnish deposits, BUT it will take quite a number of OCI's to do a good job. It's far more effective to use a good flush additive just before the oil and filter are changed (Can result in an increase in the drip rate of any oil leaks for a while). Mobil 0w40 (A3/B4) has about double the detergents of a typical 10w40 like the old Mag 10w40, so is one of the better cleaners. Never use drive around flush additive like Marvel Mystery Oil, as they can easily damage the engine.
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2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards. SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC. Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research) Last edited by skyship007; Aug 14th, 2017 at 11:29. |
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Aug 25th, 2017, 18:38 | #16 | |
moshmobile driver
Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2023 16:07
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Quote:
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baldmosher™ Drives: 63 V60 R-Design Lux Nav P* 106K Kill List: 07 S40 SE Sport D5 120K V40 SLux 1.9D 306K V40 S 1.9D 152K VW T4 LDV Pilot Golf GL 1.9TD Saxo 1.1i Fiesta 1.0 Pop Last edited by baldmosher; Aug 25th, 2017 at 18:42. |
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Aug 25th, 2017, 18:41 | #17 |
moshmobile driver
Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2023 16:07
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I'm another Helix Ultra 5w40 regular. Only paid about £25 with Opie last time. I usually keep an eye out for sales, and keep one on the shelf. Somewhere in my house there's 4.5L of it, no idea where that's gone, but I'm doing an oil change every 10 months at the moment so I get through it quick.
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baldmosher™ Drives: 63 V60 R-Design Lux Nav P* 106K Kill List: 07 S40 SE Sport D5 120K V40 SLux 1.9D 306K V40 S 1.9D 152K VW T4 LDV Pilot Golf GL 1.9TD Saxo 1.1i Fiesta 1.0 Pop |
Aug 25th, 2017, 21:35 | #18 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Jun 24th, 2020 22:27
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: West Country
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I just got 5litres of Helix Ultra 5w 40 from Opie but got it for 30 GBP ; as usual, I got home today and had an email from eurocar parts for their weekend oil deal and it works out at 22 GBP with their weekend discount code for the same oil.
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2003 Volvo V40 1.8 Sport B4184S2 Retired: Volvo S60 2003 2.O T |
Aug 30th, 2017, 20:12 | #19 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Aug 13th, 2023 17:49
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Aberdeen
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Shell HX7 10w40, you can get 10 litres for about 25 quid delivered from carparts4less, decent oil good spec for my T4 and since some PO have been a little slow on changing the oil it needs another few 3/4k changes to help clean everything up.
It might have a leaky turbo as well, need to look inside some hoses see if getting oil in there.
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1992 2.0 SE Turbo Wentworth, now with b230ft & M90 2005 S60 2.0T the baby T5 |
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Aug 31st, 2017, 20:58 | #20 |
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Last Online: Apr 13th, 2022 09:41
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Mines got RAC 5w30 semi synthetic in as of a few weeks ago, I realised it had done about 15k on the dirt cheap 10 40 carlube stuff I put in a good while back and the RAC stuff was on offer in B and M so I went for that, I usually do mine every 7 or 8 thousand miles so she'll be good for nearly 190k on this stuff, if it makes it, the timing belt needs doing and I'm gonna have to put a clutch in it soon too as it judders and the bite point is waaay high, I've got three outings with my 5 berth caravan between mid September and the end of Octobers so I'll be interested to see if the clutch can survive, as this car hates pulling it at the best of times.
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02 V40 T4 S, "Sargent silver" she's back!
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