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Handbrake Woes!

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Old Jan 28th, 2011, 13:13   #21
hunty
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Thanks gents, It's a nightmare, tried a whole load of local breakers and ebay this morning, no luck at all. In the end I went to Simon at FRF volvo, got all the parts including new shoes and all the springs for 475 which I'm really happy with, but not as happy as I would be if I'd got it for 72, nice one k-dog, glad you managed to get the parts for that much. I'll be handbrakeless for the next week until I get it sorted, parts should arrive on tuesday or wednesday. Thanks for all the input, wish I lived closer to exeter! Much appreciated gents
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Old Jan 28th, 2011, 14:32   #22
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Originally Posted by Darryl View Post
Yes, if you can get used parts cheap enough it is a relatively quick and easy task to do yourself stripping the old off and reassembling the new.

It still sounds as though you are being charged an awful lot for labour if your bill is 500.

Darryl
The rest of the charge is a couple of hours labour at something like 60 and new discs and some suspension part that was damaged when it was broken.
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Old Jan 28th, 2011, 15:25   #23
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The rest of the charge is a couple of hours labour at something like 60 and new discs and some suspension part that was damaged when it was broken.

Ah, that's different then. Your getting a fair bit for your money .

Cheers Darryl
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Old Jan 30th, 2011, 10:07   #24
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Question Use it or loose it?

Dont know if youve seen this thread on a very similar theme..

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=108059

I think its well worth applying the handbrake when rolling at a slow speed to allow some friction and perhaps remove any rust buildup on the inside of the drum, when you think about it the inner 'drum' brakes are unlike say a car that might only have a drum brake on the rear where the shoes are actually used for braking. On a S60/V70 this would never get any friction between the shoes and drum if you only used it when stationary (as im sure most people do).

I could imagine there could possibly be a fair build up of rust on the inner drum surface. Certainly the cold and damp conditions would all add to this - only my theory has anyone else found similar ?
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Old Jan 30th, 2011, 10:44   #25
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Dont know if youve seen this thread on a very similar theme..

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=108059

I think its well worth applying the handbrake when rolling at a slow speed to allow some friction and perhaps remove any rust buildup on the inside of the drum, when you think about it the inner 'drum' brakes are unlike say a car that might only have a drum brake on the rear where the shoes are actually used for braking. On a S60/V70 this would never get any friction between the shoes and drum if you only used it when stationary (as im sure most people do).

I could imagine there could possibly be a fair build up of rust on the inner drum surface. Certainly the cold and damp conditions would all add to this - only my theory has anyone else found similar ?
Yes i agree and this practice is even mentioned in the Haynes manual under the section for adjusting the handbrake.

I think that if you were to LIGHTLY pull on the handbrake at VERY slow speed for a SHORT distance once or twice a month , the internals would probably benefit.

I intend to do this now that i have fitted new handbrake shoes and got everything adjusted properly.

Darryl
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Old Jan 30th, 2011, 11:04   #26
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Smile Handbrake turns

Hi Darryl,

Yes i meant lightly pulling up on the handbrake, not trying to lock the wheels ! (i actually doubt its capable of that anyway!) you can notice quite a difference in the noise if the car has been left standing for a few days, so I do think that rust must build up on the drum, a bit like if you wash the car and the discs get wet youll have some 'rust' happening on the discs which gets removed the first time you brake (i usually make sure the discs get dried off by taking the car for a short run & using the brakes after ive washed it).
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Old Jan 30th, 2011, 12:08   #27
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The haynes manual says drive for 400m with the handbrake on slightly, will do it every couple of weeks when i have a handbrake again, currently left in gear outside the house, good job I live in the flatest area in the country! No need for handbrakes really in the fens!
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Old Jan 30th, 2011, 13:27   #28
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Hi Darryl,

Yes i meant lightly pulling up on the handbrake, not trying to lock the wheels ! (i actually doubt its capable of that anyway!) you can notice quite a difference in the noise if the car has been left standing for a few days, so I do think that rust must build up on the drum, a bit like if you wash the car and the discs get wet youll have some 'rust' happening on the discs which gets removed the first time you brake (i usually make sure the discs get dried off by taking the car for a short run & using the brakes after ive washed it).
Hi,
oh yes i knew that you meant doing this procedure lightly/gently and if i were you i would continue doing it. My drums had a small build up of rust on the inside of the rim of the drum where the shoes made no contact.

I cleaned all of this off before installing all the new parts and once assembled i did the above procedure to make sure that nothing was going to foul or come loose and then finally readjusted the handbrake.

What i cannot understand is that in all the years that i have been driving
( over 40 ) i have never personally had a vehicle where the friction material has parted from the backing plate and yet Volvo seem to manage to get such crap adhesive that this is a regular EXPENSIVE failure.
Why on earth did they not simply have the friction material riveted on the shoes ( like they used to be when drum brakes were common place ) when these problem first became apparent to them.

Even though i have all new parts in i cannot say that i am now relaxed because there is obviously an inherent fault in manufacture.

Cheers Darryl
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Old Jan 30th, 2011, 19:54   #29
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Hi,

Why on earth did they not simply have the friction material riveted on the shoes ( like they used to be when drum brakes were common place ) when these problem first became apparent to them.

Even though i have all new parts in i cannot say that i am now relaxed because there is obviously an inherent fault in manufacture.

Cheers Darryl
My hand brake shoes suffered the same fate a year or so ago, but fortunately I changed them before any lock-up hub damage occurred.

Before fitting the new shoes I drilled and inserted 2 copper brake shoe rivets at each end of the shoes - (the copper rivets are still fairly easily obtainable and easy enough to fit).

I shall be very surprised if I get any further trouble
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Old Jan 30th, 2011, 20:14   #30
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My hand brake shoes suffered the same fate a year or so ago, but fortunately I changed them before any lock-up hub damage occurred.

Before fitting the new shoes I drilled and inserted 2 copper brake shoe rivets at each end of the shoes - (the copper rivets are still fairly easily obtainable and easy enough to fit).

I shall be very surprised if I get any further trouble


Now were talking . Good move!
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