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940 2.0i head gasket removal (with pics)

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Old Nov 2nd, 2010, 14:41   #1
monman
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Default 940 2.0i head gasket removal (with pics)

If the moderators think it's a lttle picture heavy please feel free to adjust.

Well I finally started the head gasket job on my 940, so I thought you might appreciate a few pictures and some words. Sorry about my haphazard approach to the job but it's just the way I do things, I must add that I kept forgetting to take pictures as I got involved.

So out on my driveway for 7.45am, firstly loosened the radiator hose and drained the coolant, removed the radiator which is attached to the slam panel via two L-shaped brackets and 2 x 10mm bolts. Remove the fan shroud which is secured to the radiator via 2 x 8mm screws.

I then removed the thermostat housing which doubles as an engine lift bracket. Then remove the fan and puley which has 4 x 8mm nuts, you will need to retain the studs for your new water pump, I also removed the drivebelts as well.



It was now that I discovered the cause of my problems, the radiator was rotten;




And the thermostat had snapped on one shoulder;



I now marked up the ht leads befroe removing them and the plugs.



Then I removed the 10 x 10mm nuts securing the rocker cover, the rear two bolts secure an engine earth lead each so I tucked these out of the way. Mayonaisse anyone?



Now it was time to set up the valve timing before removing the cambelt from the camshaft pulley, again sorry for picture quality.
I marked the crankshaft pulley and timing mark on the cambelt cover, also marked the camshaft pulley which has a small dimple stamped on it and the back of the camshaft cover plate.




The camshaft lobes on number 1 cylinder should now be in this position tto indicate tdc on number 1 cylinder.




The cambelt is tensioned by a concentric ( I think thts the word) 15mm bolt, loosen this and pull the belt back to hold the tensioner back then re-tighten the bolt. You can now slide the cambelt off the cam pulley, if you intend to reuse the belt you can at this point mark the belt and cam pulley to enable refitting later.



Now lock up the cambelt pulley, to do this My wife sat in car applied 5th gear and stood on brakes., This is where I forgot to take photos sorry. Undo the 8 x 13mm nuts securing the exhaust manifold to the head, then undo and remve the 8 x 13mm nuts securing the inlet manifold, you may have noticed that I didn't remove the distributor cap or dismantle the injector rail and throttle assembly, there really isn't any need to although its tight to get to the nuts on the inlet side it is workable. Then pull both manifolds to the side.



Next using a torque wrench and a 14mm hexagonal impact socket undo the head bolts, I started in the middle and worked outwards in a spiral motion. When all the bolts are remved check for any cables or connectors still attached around the inlet manifold. Using a block of wood and a rubber mallet apply firm but even hits to free the head from the block.

So after 2 1/2 hours I was at this point, with the head finally removed.





I now removed the distributor cap, rotor arm and distributor from the head, then removed the camshaft bearing caps taking care to release them evenly, the bearing caps and tappets were all stored in order to aid refitting in their original position. Despite the mileage of 167ish the car has done the camshaft appears to be in great condition with no where or uneveness to the camshaft lobes.




So thats it for now, take the head for skimming and hopefully all back together at weekend, subject to weather. When rebuilding I am fitting new water pump, thermostat, cambelt, drive belts, ht leads, cap, rotor arm and radiator.
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Old Nov 2nd, 2010, 15:21   #2
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Cool

Nice. Thanks for sharing it with us.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2010, 16:57   #3
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Do a valve lap if you have the chance, and renew the inlet valve seals and the little rubbers that hit the valve buckets. Use decent quality ones so they last a reasonable length of time.

That will all help with torque and quietness.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2010, 23:14   #4
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Well done for that!
Short to the point spot on and methodical.
This is just the sort of info people need when deciding if they are up to doing themselves.

Maybe when you've finished it can be added as a sticky by admin with all the other very valuable contributions by the likes of mike brace.My opinion is that you can never have enough information when it comes to doing these jobs.We all continue to learn.Some of us by our mistakes

Thanks Brian.
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Old Nov 13th, 2010, 17:29   #5
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Update time. Got my head back from having it skimmed, re-fitted tappets in their original position, fitted camshaft and distributor (glad I did that whilst the head was off).

Fitted new water pump with new seal for heater pipe and engine block. Now here is where I NEED some advice.

My wife again proved invaluable, with her holding the brake pedal I eventually managed to get the crankshaft pulley nut loosened and the pulley off to enable me to fit the new timing belt. Now when I got the pulley off the crankshaft I expected to find a woodruff key or dowel on the crankshaft pulley gear, but there is nothing to locate the pulley on.

The pulley is notched for one, as is the crankshaft gear and backplate but there is no means of locating securely as far as I can see other than sheer bolt tension, is this right?
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Old Nov 18th, 2010, 19:49   #6
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Just an update, sorry no pics. My day off today so I got stuck in and rebuilt the top end, I was worried before starting as the engineers had said "they took a lot off the head" turned out they had taken 0.75mm off and as the head had never been skimmed before they deemed it servicable, they also supplied me with an oversize head gasket as the one with the kit I had bought was standard replacement.

So after a 3 1/2 hour rebuild I found I had the distributor 180 degrees out, sorted this turned the key and lo and behold car started 2nd time the problem was new water pump was screaming. off with the water pump and down to my local parts shop for another one.

Refitted pump checked all timing again, just adjusted up the distributor, started car and checked for leaks then went out for a test drive, car drove as well as ever, it even as far as I could tell felt a little quicker and smoother.

All's well so far just going to change the oil after running some engine flush through and drop the water and refill with the correct antifreeze mixture, well when I say all's well it is except for my crankshaft pulley which seems to have a slight wobble, I tightened it up to the torque settings and ensured it went on square, so my thought is that it probably wobbled before I just never noticed,just keep my eye on that for now.

Also doing a couple of mods, changed the rear outer lights for some clear units I got with the car, replacing the non working volvo radio/cassette with a bluetooth head unit I've had for a while and fitting some very retro looking reversing sensors (for my wifes benefit honest).

So hopefully now thats all sorted we can put some more miles on her now.
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