C70: Rear dampers removal?

[SteveSarre]

Hi CNGBiFuel

I can get a socket on the top of the strut, but I need to hold the strut stationary. I can get a socket on the mount bolts but am hesitating because they are getting tight as the rust pulls up into the captive nut.

The photos maybe don't do it justice, but in a C70 convertible, the storage compartment for the roof comes down to within a few inches of the top of the strut, and one has very limited access through various holes behind the back seat.

It is much more awkward than on a V70 or even a C70 coupe.

I am still thinking about this, and will post when I succeed (which I think I will eventually).

Steve

[SteveSarre]

Hi all

I finally managed to do this on a 2001 C70 convertible. It was hard work, crouching down in the back seat removing the strut nuts.

On the first strut I had tried to counterhold the strut while I undid the nut with a ring spanner. I didn't have the right size wrench to counterhold the top of the strut (approx 7mm across the flats), and I had tried using a variety of tools, including vise grips so the strut was marred.

I also tried to tighten the centre nut with the air impact, hoping that it would strip either the nut or the strut. But that didn't work because the strut got tight but then turned instead of stripping.

For me there is not enough space there to be using a blowtorch - too many wires and connectors for the amps/speakers which I really don't want to damage.

What worked in the end on the first strut was to undo the centre nut as much as I could using an impact wrench. with a 15 mm socket (on a short extension with a universal joint) , (after removing the amp/equalizer for the speaker), working though the 30mm access hole. That brought the nut up towards the top of the threads, but not completely off.


Then I used an air chisel cutting downwards between the strut and the nut to try to split
the nut. That was only partly successful. The strut tended to turn, which meant that I wasn't making a single clean cut. I then tried to drill into that cut, to take out as much metal as possible. I used the existing cut to guide the start of the drill hole. That made some progress, but the nut still would not split, either with the air chisel, or hand holding small or large cold chisels.

I used Dremel grinding wheels to enlarge the cut slightly.

Then I kept using the air chisel, and cold chisels and a larger drill bit to eventually split the nut.

I could then hammer the strut down through the destroyed nut.

That side took about 3 hours altogether.

I then removed the two strut mount bolts by working them in and out, adding penetrating oil, and they eventually came out without breaking the captive nut. ( I have replaced those bolts with stainless).

I also did a dry run with a new strut to see if I could have got the old strut out upwards with its mount, instead of cutting the nut. There is not enough room to get the old strut out upwards while it is still attached to the mount (even if you compress the strut).

I then tackled the other side. I undid the centre nut as far as I could with the air impact. I then made up a small tool to counterhold the strut. It was fiddly with very limited space but I just managed to get the strut unscrewed a few more turns, using a ring spanner and my homemade spanner, then finally off by hand. There was not enough room for any ratchet spannering. That side took about 20 minutes altogether.

Then of course the usual task of separating the bottom mount from its tapered shaft (used the air chisel again).

HTH
Steve

[tony209]

It's a real phaff, took me 6 hours, at least you managed to move both nuts, one of mine wouldn't budge at all.

On reflection, easiest way to remove OEM struts would be to extend the strut as far as it will go and cut the spindle from underneath the car. The metal cap on top of the plastic shrouds can be cut with tin snips and the spindle then pulled through the car.

Anyone wanting to fit new struts, make sure the replacements use a hex or torx key to hold the spindle.

[SteveSarre]

Hi Tony,

Yes I agree about choosing your new struts wisely. Or at least make sure you obtain an appropriate counterhold for them before you fit them.

I looked at cutting the strut from below as you suggest, but it seemed that access was very tight when trying to cut the shaft because even when the strut was disconnected at the bottom and fully extended downwards, the shaft is quite high up above the main fat part of the strut (which I didn't want to cut into). (I had the rear of the car on drive-on ramps).

Steve

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by acshortt5

Pair of molegrips locked on the counterhold (then let the grips swing round and jam in place) while you undo with the spanner if you don't want to touch the top mount.

Not ideal but there looks to be room to get a socket/rachet onto the 2 bolts and for pulling the shock you might need to compress it first (and lock in place with some cable ties or even some string - if it's old/knackered it won't take much to hold it compressed) in order to pull it up through the car.

As above - use the smallest pair of mole grips you can find - I used 80mm grips which locked in place between the dual rear firewalls. NB when replacing the springs it is better to use internal spring compressors - I didn't and it took me ages to get the near side spring to seat correctly.

[rudi dudi]

Originally Posted by ASt85

As above - use the smallest pair of mole grips you can find - I used 80mm grips which locked in place between the dual rear firewalls. NB when replacing the springs it is better to use internal spring compressors - I didn't and it took me ages to get the near side spring to seat correctly.

If the rear spring set up is the same as the V70 it's a lot easier to just use a trolley jack under the rear axle and not bother with spring compressors.

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by rudi dudi

If the rear spring set up is the same as the V70 it's a lot easier to just use a trolley jack under the rear axle and not bother with spring compressors.

You can remove the old or broken springs by jacking the body up after you've removed the shocks but I could only get the correct length OEM springs in by using compressors............found out the hard way!

[rudi dudi]

So the setup is the same then?
The way I do them is to jack up the car high enough and support it on higlift axle stands or blocks so the axle can hang freely just like it would on a 2 post car ramp.You can then clamp the spring in the axle using that strange looking cup arrangment that Volvo use and compress it into it's position in the upper cup on the chassis rail with a trolley jack.

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by rudi dudi

So the setup is the same then?
The way I do them is to jack up the car high enough and support it on higlift axle stands or blocks so the axle can hang freely just like it would on a 2 post car ramp.You can then clamp the spring in the axle using that strange looking cup arrangment that Volvo use and compress it into it's position in the upper cup on the chassis rail with a trolley jack.

No - with the C70 you can't get the correct length spring into the lower seat without compressing them - as far as I'm aware the suspension configuration front and rear is different from that used in the V70 - TWR (Tom Walkinshaw Racing) co-designed the car's suspension and tuning with Volvo.

[burgess]

I've sent for one from Amazon to do rear shocks on my C70 cabrio.

OEMTOOLS 25284 Socket, 3/8 Drive

Remove and Replace Shock Absorbers on X & J Body Designed to Fit The "Double D" Stem on GM Cars
They fit the damper piston rod 6.1x8mm.
£5.95 + £3.13 delivery.