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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Poor economy and trouble starting when cold.Views : 12698 Replies : 140Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 5th, 2012, 12:04 | #111 |
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Crap...... £200 for crank and Cam sensors???? Should have to pay £10 each MAX for each one of them......
Have you had your codes read? Any forum lives near you with a code reader? This saga has been going on for a long long time and I am surprised how patient you have been all this time with it.
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
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Apr 5th, 2012, 12:19 | #112 |
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Whe I finally decided to have the codes read, instead of me just guessing what it was it has come back as RPM sensor. The problem is that after a period of running the code dissappears on the next start up. Any attempts to read the codes after that show no errors.
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Apr 5th, 2012, 12:22 | #113 |
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A bit lazy as I am not going through the entire thread to check, but when did you last change the fuel filter?
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
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Apr 5th, 2012, 12:26 | #114 |
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When I bought it, would have been summer of 09 about 45-50k miles. Now on 94k miles
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Apr 5th, 2012, 12:33 | #115 |
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Fuel filter is meant to last 80K so I guess it's not that then....
I personally can't think of anything else, as you have tried out so many different things....
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
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Apr 5th, 2012, 13:41 | #116 | |
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With these engine sensors it is no good going "on the cheap" as know one knows how old these 2nd hand ones are. You could merely be taking on some other persons problems. I think the Cam Sensor is about £136 from Volvo last year as i had all mine done on the T4 as i expect you know. So £200 is ok. Because of this financial crisis owners are just taking a chance on using cheap parts which is really false economy as in the long run one has to buy the part new anyway and also the fannying about thinking you have another component out the way when in fact you have replaced a worn out one with another faulty one!! If you are selling the car then ok, but if you are keeping the motor then move on after buying and fitting the Volvo specified part, there is no other reliable way. Of course this thread has gone on for a while so does the OP now have to go back and think of the components which were fitted before which are not genuine Volvo?? Who know`s ?
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Apr 5th, 2012, 13:59 | #117 |
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Keith, I agree with you for some of the things you said, but maybe you misunderstood what I meant. I sent tt82 a used MAF I had, for free, to test to see if it fixes his problem or not. I could have done the same with the crank and cam shaft sensors. If you or anyone here could get hold of either of these two sensors 2nd hand and known to be in good condition, then it is a great way to trouble shoot. If you establish the sensor which was at fault then you have 2 options:
Keep the used one in the car until it fails Keep the used one in the car until you purchase and receive a new one (always Original Volvo) However, buying a brand new sensor (specially a MAF sensor) is quite expensive. And as you have already mentioned, in the current financial crisis, not everyone can afford to go and buy new parts. If someone asked me for cam/crank sensors, I would not ask for more than a tenner or even free for some people. Which is way way much cheaper than a brand new sensor. Whenever I sent anything to a forum member, I make sure I double check it to make sure it is in working order. I would never knowingly sent a part to another member here or even a person I don't even know on ebay. If the item solves their problem, then they can decide whether to keep it until it stops working, or replace it with a new part. I have a lot of spares for both my 1.9D and my T4, all of which I know are in perfect working order, so if I have any issues, I can trouble shoot and find the problem. Some things, I will go and get new and original Volvo, either from Rufe or ebay. But I would never ever buy a brand new original heater control panel, or MAF for example as their prices are extortionate.
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Last edited by gatos; Apr 5th, 2012 at 14:01. |
Apr 5th, 2012, 14:03 | #118 | |
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I trialled a second hand maf from Alex but it made no difference and again when I put mine back in. Everything else I think has come from Rufe. Cam Sensor Crank Sensor Thermostat Engine Tempature Sensor HT Leads Coils FPR Spark plugs |
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Apr 5th, 2012, 14:04 | #119 |
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Oil and Filter Change 29/05/2009 44,995 £75.00
2 Vredestein Sportrac 3 205/50R16 tyres 29/06/2009 46,928 £156.30 Cambelt Change 27/07/2009 48,431 £250.00 ATF Change 27/07/2009 48,431 £100.00 Brake Fluid Change 27/07/2009 48,431 £45.00 Oil and Filter Change 22/08/2009 49,834 £51.80 Spark Plugs 22/08/2009 49,834 £11.27 Coolant Change 22/08/2009 49,834 £20.99 Cabin Filter 22/08/2009 49,834 £21.25 K&N Air Filter 22/08/2009 49,834 £38.99 Fuel Filter 22/08/2009 49,834 £17.23 2 Hankook V12 EVO 225/50R16 tyres 18/12/2009 54,935 £154.10 Oil and Filter Change 22/12/2009 54,970 £30.00 Front and Rear Brake Disc and Pads 12/02/2010 57,326 £184.44 Oil and Filter Change 09/04/2010 59,859 £30.00 EML cleared 16/04/2010 60,314 £50.00 2 Vredestein Sportrac 3 205/55R16 tyres 29/06/2010 64,356 £143.70 Oil and Filter Change 01/09/2010 67,531 £40.00 2 Vredestein Sportrac 3 205/55R16 tyres 02/09/2010 67,538 £120.00 Spark Plugs 20/10/2010 69,558 £11.52 Cabin Filter 20/10/2010 69,558 £21.25 Air Filter clean 20/10/2010 69,558 £19.99 4 Firestone Winterhawk 205/55R16 tyres 07/11/2010 70,256 £231.00 EML cleared 08/12/2010 71,656 £53.40 Oil and Filter Change 15/02/2011 74,687 £25.00 Fuel Pressure Regulator Change 26/03/2011 75,962 £75.00 HT Leads and Coils Change 28/03/2011 76,056 £130.00 Thermostat Change 30/03/2011 76,254 £20.44 Front Springs Changed 14/04/2011 77,136 £196.56 Rear ARB links and Rear Brake Carriers 18/05/2011 78,697 £178.66 Sill clips 19/05/2011 78,712 £6.18 A/C re-gas 20/05/2011 78,735 £90.00 Tracking 20/05/2011 78,735 £24.00 Four Wheel Alignment 01/06/2011 80,073 £104.40 EML cleared 04/06/2011 80,186 £24.00 Oil and Filter Change 01/07/2011 82,204 £25.00 EML cleared 21/09/2011 86,677 £24.00 Lambda Sensor Changed 26/09/2011 87,035 £134.64 Oil and Filter Change 21/12/2011 89,818 £21.10 Engine Temapature Sensor 21/12/2011 89,818 £34.40 Cam Sensor 21/12/2011 89,818 £123.00 Air Filter clean 21/12/2011 89,818 £0.00 Cabin Filter 21/12/2011 89,818 £26.80 Spark Plugs 21/12/2011 89,818 £14.00 New battery 11/01/2012 91,005 £89.94 Crank sensor sometime in Feb Outer CV boots. 30/03/2012 94,056 £140.00 Front brake pads 30/03/2012 94,056 £66.25 Last edited by tt82; Apr 5th, 2012 at 14:08. |
Apr 5th, 2012, 14:28 | #120 | ||
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Quote:
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But these sensors have variables in there "Volts" and all that business when in operation on the motor and if some of these sensors are not giving out quite what they should then all the negatives add up especially with sensor with a lot of miles, it is not really a way to solve a problem. The codes should be read all the time and kept an eye on regularly and then replace a sensor with a new one from Volvo. These things are the heart of the engine. Yes, i agree "try that old sensor" but it may not be giving it`s best, so problems may stay as they are, especially if another sensor linked to it is faulty, but if it were new then the situation would be different. At the end of the day one just doesn`t know what is what as so many used parts are on the engine, so therefore all the parts that have worn together with a similar mileage are now all over the place trying to work with one another. I hope you understand what i am trying to say as the OP`s problem is fairly difficult now to find and correct. I know we can only give opinions on what could be as we are not there with the car, but i personally would dump the K&N filter and fit a new fuel pump. These things stop it starting properly, oil on the MAF from the filter interferes with the measurement of air needed for a clean start, if the fuel pressure is low no start and once a dribble of fuel is there more difficult to start! More throttle less MPG, 205/55/16 tyres instead of 205/50/16 more throttle to pull away due to more diameter. The 1.8 has less torque for these tyres in town use. One can say all day what the problem may be but reading the error codes must be the first thing to keep on top of.
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